Ha, thought that that will be the answer, but hoped that I am wrong :p .

I really would like to know if it is the way ist supposed to be if you dont get enough screws to build the car when you buy a complete 12R5.1 kit and the Lipo Conversion. Anyone?

Bearings
 

Just built my first RC12R5.1!!! It's running pretty good, spent a lot of time getting the ride height, wheel base, camber, & toe correct. Seems like spending the time in the pits really improved the cars handling, I shaved 3 seconds off my lap times!!

Can anyone recommend some budget bearings, I purchased some Protek rubber sealed bearings for the car, but haven't installed them yet.

Also found that on the front of the car the left to right ride height is about .3 to .4 mm different. I checked shims, springs, wheels, chassis, & the like with calipers but haven't found the problem. Is it possible one of plastic arms is bent?

Re: Bearings, visit avidrc.com.... Great bearings for a great price. I use the standard metal shielded for the front hubs and outer diff bearing. I use the metal shielded ceramics for the rear axle and interior diff. The standard bearings are $1 a piece and the ceramics are $5. Again, great prices. You can get an entire set for the 12R5.1 for ~$10. And they will outlast the stock pieces.

Regarding your front end, have you read Mark Payne's blog posts on "how to tweak your car" ???

http://www.markpayneblog.blogspot.co...a%2012th%20Car

If you haven't done so already, measure the front axle height on each side. Youll need a perfectly flat surface and an accurate set of calipers. It is outlined in the link above.

Is your Reactive castor the same both sides?

Give us a picture with certain angles to view ft end

Walter, I had the same issue. It was one of my springs were collapsed. Just replace them (in stock @ the Bowl and less than $3).

Phil

I would have said springs but he said he checked them...lol

@Anyone

I have this thread to show all the side springs but does anyone know the spectrum of top springs and what one's would be need in total for the inline kit?

Also on the rear hole on the reactive castor there is a 10, 5, 0 option as kit says 10 is standard position. Does anyone adjust that?

On most cars that hole is usually just one hole that is static

Thank you

Double check, triple check the amount of shims. Check kingpin length, absolutly make sure tires are freshly trued the same. Take kingpin and everything apart and re-assemble balls and all except for the arms ( kingpin to kingpin) basically. Measure off the car kingpin length with springs and balls, that should be the same. If it is then something else may be the problem. You can sit the car chassis flat on your set up board w/no tires and measure from board to bottom of lower a-arm and see if its bent!

What is the correct part #s for the front springs?

Amain has two different types of front springs in the 12R5 section... I picked up a few pairs of the ones with the #842X parts numbers, but they are MUCH longer than my old springs.

I measured my old springs at about .25"/6.4mm in length... The #842X springs are .31"/8mm. Did I accidentally buy 1/10th pan car springs?

The #84xx are for 10th scale.

These are for 12th scale:
#4113 .020, #4114 .018, #4116 .024, #4117 .022, #4118 .014, #4119 .016

Got it, thanks. Shame I picked up 3 pairs of each spring... :rolleyes:

New setup posted
 

Hi Rick, thanks for posting this. The setup looks almost identical to what I am running at our local carpet track... which is med bite w/ a few bumps on the straight but overall pretty smooth. The only notable differences being you are using a heavier side shock oil and I am running a 2mm shim between the caster block and upper arm.

Is there a reason why you are running such large tires(43/45mm)? Is there a particular characteristic of this track that makes large tires more suitable than smaller ones?

Ive heard that is the sweet spot for tires on this car? but Id like to hear what the pros have to say about it. Personally I like smaller tires in the 43/41mm range but that is on my top.

We start at 45-43 as it's not so big to cause issues in med to high bite.
44-42 is probably about optimum, but then you won't get as many runs on a set of tires, especially in mod.

For club racing, some of the guys run them out of the box, with just a bit of edge contour.

2 runs in mod, 2 weeks in blinky is about average on a set of Black/Yellow tires.

Pretty sure Rick was running 2mm shims for upper arm length, though I don't see it on the setup sheet ?

For the ROAR race last sun, the grip was the most intense I have seen it at TQ, smaller tires actually did work better, Edgar & I were running itty bitties in the Main. 42/40

With my Blinky car, I started the tires at 44/42, and ran them like that the whole day, starting at 4mm ride height, before the main the ride height was approx 3.2mm, I didn't change a pinion, or anything on that car.
Blinky is kind of low maintenance :nod:

Just picked up my inline conv. from Speedtech rc!!:):) are there any suspension changes I should make when converting the car over?