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Quote:

Originally Posted by mangoman (Post 6961168)

To tell you the truth im not convinced the tyre size is the problem. I had to stop gooping up the tyres (sun screen) and that got rid of the traction rolling. I think im just gunna have to put harder tyres on the front which i was hoping i wouldnt have to do. Usually over here we are chasing grip all around though and one of my friends was telling me not to cut the tyres small as the bigger diameter tyres have a bigger surface area and thus more grip (dont know if that is true or not).

Actually come to think about it, the tyres i used today were well worn anyway, so effectively they were cut down. Id have top measure them they are not as small as 44mm but i would guess they were around 46mm.

One thing which i am really confused with though is the diff. I run mine relatively loose compared to other people. I was told with 10.5 and the grip levels it wasnt so critical to run a tight diff. Will a loose diff cause the rear end to break out through a high speed sweeper?

Dangles which colour car were you? Last few minutes of the final were horrid for me, dont know if i tweaked something after running pretty hard into a stationary badman. But i think it was a setup issue which was the problem.

For traction roll issues! tyres is the first to change to solve the problem, cut them down and go harder shore is a must, but to be honest the traction was not that high to cause traction roll that night which mean you most likely have the setup wrong, check ride height, front and rear droops.

stiffen up side spring and leave the centre shock and damping soft and I would run 3mm ride fr/RR with minimal droops(extra shims on top of the King Pin).

For the diff we always tighten up so it has no slip(better for acceleration) and in general the more grip you have the tighter the diff you run.

Ok thanks tommy, i noticed on Kyle's setup that he raised the mounting of the center shock which was something i was going to try doing. I'll move back to the green center spring as well as i have a blue one in it at the moment.

I havent tried 35s up front either which i need to as well, last week i was getting massive wear on the front tyres relative to what im used to (with 32s).

I'll have a look at the droop, i put BMI springs on which may have mucked it up a bit so i'll put some associated ones back in to play it safe.
And thanks for the diff tip.

Quote:

Originally Posted by mangoman (Post 6973358)

Me and Kyle were using 32's all round with minimal tyre wear 0.5mm Fr and 1mm Rr for the whole night which is 40mins of racing.

check you side damper as well maybe is empty which can cause the problem that you have now.

Will do, i rebuilt it the night before.... Hopefully i put it back together ok.
I also added the yokomo brace to the car not too sure what it does, but i hate those posts as im worried about screwing into them and whether they are going in tight or not (had one screw strip in the thread of the post as a result :( ).

ackerman spacers...

what spacer (thick or thin) are you using with the futaba s9650 servo? thank you.

I run them both together. It pushes the servo as far forward as it will go before it hits the lower arm mount. :nod:

Why do you want it so far forward? I just use one of the spacers and the arms sit pretty strait.

Quote:

Originally Posted by pakk (Post 6977636)

Why do you want it so far forward? I just use one of the spacers and the arms sit pretty strait.

It effectively provides you with ackerman in the car.

Guys, quick question - What's the best way to hold a 4 cell battery in place? The instructions don't seem to actually mention how to secure the battery....

battery strapping tape

Ok, so you just re tape it every time you swap batteries? That kind of sounds like a pain. I'd never heard of that tape before but my best idea so far was a velcro strap..

Quote:

Originally Posted by ZiG-87 (Post 6991617)

Ok, so you just re tape it every time you swap batteries? That kind of sounds like a pain. I'd never heard of that tape before but my best idea so far was a velcro strap..

Velcro will lauch you pack the second you hit something with the speeds these cars make.

We've been taping the batteries in for as long as I can remember and that goes back thirty years. CRC uses an O-Ring to hold the cells down and Xray and HotBodies have battery clamps. However, AE decided to go the old traditional way and that is to tape the pack down.

It used to be a pain but once you get the hang of it it really is simplicity in motion. Pick up a roll of tape at the track or LHS and don't use the cheap office supply stuff, most of those are OK but the RC specific tape works better. If you don't have a LHS nearby then go to nexusracing.com.

Roger that, I'll grab some this weekend. Thanks guys.

ZiG, Goto the local Canadian Tire. Look in there packing tape section you will be looking for a roll of !!! Strapping Tape !!!. Everytime I have gone there asking for this product the employees have looked at me like I have a third head so don't worry just keep digging.

It's about 2cm (1/2 inch) wide and you will see fibre strands all the way across it. Do not get the clear stuff as that is packing tape.

Cost $2-3 dollars a roll sometimes it's there in combo packs of 3. The LHS do not carry it or will want to order in the Hudy Tape @ $20 a roll. :(

New price on Chassis Braces. $15.00 Shipped (lower 48 states).

paypal accepted... PM me for account info if interested.

Thanks Steve
SMG Machining