Futaba 9650 is a pretty good one for the price.
E

Does anyone know who stocks the upper turnbuckles? The part number is 1410.

I just checked 4 places and nothing. A part that slipped threw the cracks ?

DK

Any feedback for 12R5.1?

Same car, just comes out of the box with a brushless pod.

DK

It looks like its available through AE's online website for purchase right now.

Steve

Thanks, I also found them on lefthander-rc.com (an oval site).

What inexpensive brushless esc will fit well in the 12R5?

Tekin RS

Talk to "NovakTwo" on this site.
they had a few new GTB 4cells for $99 they can sell direct.
also, the new havok 1S is cheap but needs the heatsink chopped down to fit i think. i heard they are making a plate for it like the 4 cell GTB has.

heres a link to where to buy from Novak direct:

http://www.shopatron.com/home/index/135.0.1.1

good luck
Alex

I love this website.

Ok, my car was dialed. So dialed that pretty much everybody that saw the car told me it looked awsome and not to touch it. That was the setup posted on rc10.com. Well, I raced the car two more races like that. The next race I couldn't unscrew my head from my butt so the finish was not that great. The last race I had my head screwed on right and did very well with the car again. It was the same easy to drive missile for all three races. The following race it started to develop a double steer. Then it started to throw the rear into the corners. I rebuilt everything. I cleaned everything. I realigned...you get the idea.

Well that chain of events sent me off on a tuning spree. I played with just about everything I could over the last couple weeks of track time. First off i would like to say that the car could be a step or two off on chassis setup before it really effected the clock. Very easy to get in the ball park. One thing that threw me for a loop is the side springs. I get the concept, soft means more mid corner rear traction. But when lowering the side spring rate to softer I had to dope less of the front too. Still trying to wrap my head around that one. Any way...


I have seen a few tuning guides on the net and there all good but I really haven't seen any hard fast rules. I think I have a few. Let me know what you guys think.



Front.
Caster: This is front grip. If you need more grip then move the upper arms forward. If its too much, move it back.
Reactive caster: This is where you want your grip. Going into the corner (10deg), even all the way threw the corner (5deg) or mid corner to exit (0deg).
Start with .018 front spring. If the traction is high or you have to dope heavy in front then .020's would probly be better.

Unless your having rear traction issues or your tires are WAY off then I would start with caster.

When you have that set, next is the side spring/shock spring combo. The two have a balance to each other where they work in side grip and forward grip evenly. That seems to be

Silver side/blue shock
blue side/gold shock... I would start here for stock/ss on carpet.
gold side/red shock.

A really good starting setting for the shocks is 30wt/30wt.


Set your side springs as soft as the lay out will let you. And by that I mean find the fastest, tightest direction change and see if the car goes threw it or if your waiting for the car to change direction. You shouldn't have to lift off the throttle for the car to change direction. Too stiff of a side spring and the steering will get twitchy right off center and it will start to throw the rear into the corner. This action starts to show up as double steer then gets worse. When I went from a gold side spring to a blue one, the car went a tenth faster. Then from the blue to silver it didn't get faster but it was more consistent. Any softer and I bet it would have slowed down. Pretty quick and easy to find the right side springs. Then fine tune the shock spring for the on-power steering you like.

There you go. Caster and side springs will get your chassis 90% there. Then fine tune the tires, aerodynamics and oils to finish it off.

DK

Guys-
What's a good starting RO for 13.5?
-first gen LRP Sphere Comp
-Novak 13.5
-76 spur (or should I go bigger?)
-43-45 mm tires
-lipo

Would say 10mm less than what I running now with a 17.5 be a good place to start?
Thanks,
E

Partime, I have that problem as well. 3 weeks ago I raced and the car was on rails then the following week it started developing this double steer and the following week it was just loose. I hadn't made any changes and tweak of the car measures good, there is something else going on that causes this and I don't know how to find it other than take the entire car apart. I had this problem before and disassembling the rear pod completely and putting it back together fixed it even without changing a single part.

Ya, thats what I was thinking too and tore my car apart and just made sure everything was free but no slop. It didnt help. Then thinking that the oil was getting dirty or low in the shocks. Went threw them and it helped but didnt fix the problem.

I figured if I know how to fix what was wrong I wouldnt have to worry if it went out of tune because a tweak or two and its back.

A couple of us started to think maybe the weather had some thing to do with it. Sure enough when it was hot the car was great but when it cooled off it would double steer (less rear traction). These cars are pretty sensitive and it makes sense so, now I know to pay attention to the air temps from week to week.

DK