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Old 07-30-2008, 09:33 AM   #1141
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Originally Posted by slakr View Post
I recently purchased the E4JS which is the budget version. Battery loads from the top and LiPos fit well (I have a TrakPower 4900 in it now).

Yes there is very little room for BL motor movement. Need to have lots of spur and pinion gears to come up with the right FDR and still have proper gear mesh. I guess the best way to describe it is the motor is almost in a "POD" compartment. Brushed motors would probably be no problem though.

And the car is really light. Have to add a lot more weight to get it up to 1525g.

Just waiting on my 17.5BL motor, but I am hoping I get to run it for the first time this Saturday in a series race at Carolinas RC in Charlotte, NC.
On my original E4 i had to shim up the top deck to get the Core 5000 to fit.
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Old 07-30-2008, 10:23 AM   #1142
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I have a couple of CORE 5000 packs too, but the JS doesn't like where the wires come out of that pack.
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Old 08-02-2008, 10:21 PM   #1143
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Well guys' since I broke a drive shaft last week(I hear that something new ) well I tried to place some xray one. no go. not sure the shaft won't hook up. well to get the car runnning I'm now running parts from my 415 I had to take both c-hub steering knuckle and the whold cvds. it's sorta working but makes the sterring tight. It's not as smooth as it should be. Actully a pain in the rear.

next question does any one have a decent set up for stock on a large track. were in a lacross box this weekend. I'm also running the E4fs-cs with the spool is the internal 1.888 or 2.0??? some insight would be great.
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Old 08-08-2008, 06:06 AM   #1144
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Is there a website that helps with setup? What I mean is a guide that says if I move this bit here it does this to the car type of thing?

My car is driving very well, but I seem to be getting a bit of rear end slide into the corner. I have been running the original bling e4 with the basic kit setup, sorex 28 tyres. Running on asphalt with a 13.5 brushless (soon to be 10.5)

Any ideas on what to do to improve it? or where I can get the info on what to do to make the car do .....?
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Old 08-08-2008, 08:08 AM   #1145
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Smarty View Post
Is there a website that helps with setup? What I mean is a guide that says if I move this bit here it does this to the car type of thing?

My car is driving very well, but I seem to be getting a bit of rear end slide into the corner. I have been running the original bling e4 with the basic kit setup, sorex 28 tyres. Running on asphalt with a 13.5 brushless (soon to be 10.5)

Any ideas on what to do to improve it? or where I can get the info on what to do to make the car do .....?
there are a few things you can do , but what is your current set up? When I had had this car the car had soo much steering, I had to tone down the front end.
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Old 08-08-2008, 08:28 AM   #1146
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Smarty View Post
Is there a website that helps with setup? What I mean is a guide that says if I move this bit here it does this to the car type of thing?

My car is driving very well, but I seem to be getting a bit of rear end slide into the corner. I have been running the original bling e4 with the basic kit setup, sorex 28 tyres. Running on asphalt with a 13.5 brushless (soon to be 10.5)

Any ideas on what to do to improve it? or where I can get the info on what to do to make the car do .....?
try this set up and see what happens.
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Team Magic E4 Thread-e4-set-up.jpg  
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Old 08-08-2008, 01:56 PM   #1147
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Hi Marcos, thanks for the reply.

Current setup is
Front
Camber 1
toe 0
kit silver springs
ride hieght 5.5
roll bar 2mm


Rear
camber 1
toe 2.5
kit silver spings
ride height 6.5
roll bar 2mm
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Old 08-08-2008, 02:00 PM   #1148
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Another thing, what is the advantage of running a solid front diff as opposed to the front one way, and which would be better for asphalt.

Should I go and buy the e4 spring kit to dial out some of the front steering?
Currently I have just reduced the steering end travel on my radio so that it doesnt go as far, this works okay for the moment.

What does moving the turnbuckle mounting point on top of the uprights do to the handling of the car?

What does laying down or standing up the front and rear shocks do to the handling of the car?
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Old 08-08-2008, 08:22 PM   #1149
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Barry Baker View Post
Hey guys!!!!

On the set up sheet its say R-Upright spacer...F___andR___......
Thats is the spacing between the arm and the upright as there is room to put spacers there...If you run all the spacers in the front of the arm it makes the car shorter and in the rear of the arm,longer....Middle is always a good place to start....I only change that if I feel I need a very small change...

Hope that helped,

Barry Baker
Great, also known as wheelbase in most models !
Team Magic loves to come up with new things, or sometimes older things with new names . . . Thanks Barry and really glad to know you are on the team !

Now I have two cars, one E4 kit and one E4RS kit, since I run on outdoor really large, low traction asphalt track, RS is the way to go, and I see some points on both cars.
E4:
-Came with anti-squat apllied, huge degree of it, none on E4RS;
-Original Thrust Bearing from diff is crap, got a 930138 Xray really good, like the one came on E4RS kit;
-Original servo mounts is a joke, like told here before, Xray 306200 awesome works, need some 2mm spacers between them and futaba std servos;
-Original battery tray made of aluminium, awesome for lipo, a nightmare for NiCd and NiMh, shor-circuit cells and terminals, nylon one from E4RS lighter and better;
-Front Multi-diff are too hard, breaks more UJ than the 'pulley'd' one on E4RS;
-Rear diff with too hard couples works hard on UJ too, breaks a lot, no mark to hold plates so it slips too much, lost of energy and power, the E4RS outdrives with plate like tamiya ones are awesomely better;
-Rear UJ is joke too, need to replace with 503216-1 7075 ones, with no more bone blade (clips) to broke or came off;
-Rear diff looses easily;
-Front UJ stops breaking with some tips from Wolf, take care of downstop(droop) and too much steering action, and avoid crashs;
-Anyway the V1RRR front UJ fits on E4 all around, has to open outter couple to 8.1mm inside and a heatshrink on the inner, now only pins got broke time to time;
-Original front and rear belts can't hold 7 packs of 4200mah nimh with a mamba 7700kv, so I changed to Optibelt Omega HP 144M3 ones, cheaper and perfect, but the E4RS belts are fine too, front and rear are the same size, only 3mm one and 3.5mm other, but could reverse then with no worries, the side belt ended up with Optibelt one too, not cheaper and do the same job;
-Misses some front belt tensioner, can use the one from E4RS kit, top deck is already drilled for it, all the others are on the car;

E4RS:
-No servo mounts, just tape, don't fool me, xray 306200 too but no need of spacers in this case, chassis holes are placed perfect on this one;
-New shocks looks better;
-No hop-ups, for who never saw the E4 kit thats ok, but like me have both, looks like a start kit, no alu all around (wich is good in some way);
-Nylon batt tray, the best for any sub-c cell pack;
-Front spool have changeable pulley (standard from diff), awesome;
-Antenna mount plastic, not good like alu one on E4 kit, has to buy 3racing ones;
-Front C-hubs mande of nylon, not perfect like alu ones on E4 kit;
-No servo saver, need to buy one separatedly, ended up buying same from E4 kit;
-Rear diff not looses easy like E4 kit one;
-Chassis and "ESC mount" are smartly designed to get some cold air to motor, in this car the motor is hidden in the middle and don't get enough air, small and great idea;
-No more upstop caused by bumper posts like someone told before on this thread, the new posts have smaller bases;

both cars :
-Lack of toe options, need to 3 on this track (180 turns only);
-Internal Ratio is lil dum, 2.0588 ? tried to put 34T (from foam spec) pulleys with the stock 17Ts inside, so can get a 2 radio, easier to calculate on, like on TC5, will see if work on this weekend;
-2.4mm ball diff bearings like told before on this thread, 930120 from Xray are better than stock ones, now running Jt 3/32 (2.4mm) ceramic on rear diff;
-Will find some gear diff that fits rear of this car, FW05 one fit perfect, even same bearings, just didn't see how to 'pulley' that;
-K-factory rollbars awesome, bearing mount too, even being heavier;
-Front posts are too much to the front, almost drill headlights of bodys to put them, and taller than needed, any body left 3 to 4 holes than needed, when rears are smaller, almost couldn't fit a hatch car body (Opel Astra);
-Side cooler from K-factory does nothing and could be under the wheel on a crash, money lost;
-Like told before on this thread, dremeling the outter ball ends on rear prevents binding, a must;

When remember something will post here!
Reference :
Track picture : http://i164.photobucket.com/albums/u...taPanorama.jpg
Main set : Mamba Max ESC w/ 7700kv and LRP TC Spec ESC w/ 4.5T (for now, gonna try 3.5T and 4.0T-orion), 4200mAh and 4300mAh Integy VESC 6-cell packs, Alpha R/C (brazilian) hard tires with soft insert and Mazda 6 body.
Atomic optional front UJ for V1RRR on E4 (KR-022) : http://i164.photobucket.com/albums/u...V1RRRUJ-E4.jpg
Optibelt belts on the car : http://i164.photobucket.com/albums/u...E4/E4opti1.jpg / http://i164.photobucket.com/albums/u...E4/E4opti2.jpg / http://i164.photobucket.com/albums/u...E4/E4opti3.jpg
Opel body, rear posts on the neck : http://i164.photobucket.com/albums/u...E4/TME4-59.jpg
E4 w/ Mamba : http://i164.photobucket.com/albums/u...E4/TME4-57.jpg
Dispensable side cooler from K-factory : http://i164.photobucket.com/albums/u...E4/TME4-53.jpg
Mazda 6 (race) body : http://i164.photobucket.com/albums/u...TM-E4mazda.jpg
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Old 08-08-2008, 09:09 PM   #1150
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A solid front axle (spool) will definately take care of you problem of the rear end sliding into the corner. You might also try a little harder tire, perhaps 32.
X-ray and Hudy both offer great online setup guides.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Smarty View Post
Another thing, what is the advantage of running a solid front diff as opposed to the front one way, and which would be better for asphalt.

Should I go and buy the e4 spring kit to dial out some of the front steering?
Currently I have just reduced the steering end travel on my radio so that it doesnt go as far, this works okay for the moment.

What does moving the turnbuckle mounting point on top of the uprights do to the handling of the car?

What does laying down or standing up the front and rear shocks do to the handling of the car?
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Old 08-09-2008, 08:58 AM   #1151
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Smarty View Post
Another thing, what is the advantage of running a solid front diff as opposed to the front one way, and which would be better for asphalt.

Should I go and buy the e4 spring kit to dial out some of the front steering?
Currently I have just reduced the steering end travel on my radio so that it doesnt go as far, this works okay for the moment.

What does moving the turnbuckle mounting point on top of the uprights do to the handling of the car?

What does laying down or standing up the front and rear shocks do to the handling of the car?
usually for asphalt( rubber tires) you will be better off with front spool,

Yes stiffer springs will dialed out some of the steering , also adding a thicker front sway bar.

raising the camber link(turnbuckle) will give you less roll

shocks more incline= more progressive feel,makes it easier to drive
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Old 08-09-2008, 11:31 AM   #1152
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How do you guys like this car. Im selling my Mi3 and am looking for a new touring car.

Do you notice a big difference with the low and centeralized weight?
Can anyone compare this to the losi jsxr
right now im seriosly looking at the serepnt s400 and trf416 but this car looks nice.

do you recomend?
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Old 08-09-2008, 11:39 AM   #1153
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How do you guys like this car. Im selling my Mi3 and am looking for a new touring car.

Do you notice a big difference with the low and centeralized weight?
Can anyone compare this to the losi jsxr
right now im seriosly looking at the serepnt s400 and trf416 but this car looks nice.

do you recomend?
I have owned almost every rc car outthere compare to the JRXR in my opinio it carries more cornere speed than the Type R and it also transitions from left to right alot faster.

I want to thank Wolf Hobbies for letting me come aboard and looking foward to running the TM E4 again!! I will be available here to answer any questions with the E4 cars.
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Old 08-09-2008, 08:46 PM   #1154
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Wow!! I'm no prophet, but I think this was coming Car is nice, and I'm sure any issues with the current models will be taken care of ASAP. Car is fun to drive Wolf provides great support
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Old 08-09-2008, 10:17 PM   #1155
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Originally Posted by Marcos.J View Post
I have owned almost every rc car outthere compare to the JRXR in my opinio it carries more cornere speed than the Type R and it also transitions from left to right alot faster.

I want to thank Wolf Hobbies for letting me come aboard and looking foward to running the TM E4 again!! I will be available here to answer any questions with the E4 cars.
Car whore....LOL Between you and Randy......there are no more cars for you guys to run unless Xpress comes back out or Kawada comes back out.
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