Team Magic E4 Thread
12-27-2009, 04:43 PM
#2791
Perhaps in the future.
I am waiting on my Tekin ESC/motor combo to arrive from the states.
Going to compare them to a LRP SPX stock spec ESC and the GM Genius ESC.
I know allready for a fact that the GM esc has more top speed even without doing all the fancy stuff to it
The LRP is just about fool proof and has a lot of grunt from the bottum up but the GM has more top speed with the same engine(GM stock spec 13.5 and 10.5).
Hopefully the Tekin combo is even faster and easier to work with the the other 2
cheers Roy
I am waiting on my Tekin ESC/motor combo to arrive from the states.
Going to compare them to a LRP SPX stock spec ESC and the GM Genius ESC.
I know allready for a fact that the GM esc has more top speed even without doing all the fancy stuff to it
The LRP is just about fool proof and has a lot of grunt from the bottum up but the GM has more top speed with the same engine(GM stock spec 13.5 and 10.5).
Hopefully the Tekin combo is even faster and easier to work with the the other 2
cheers Roy
Guys,
I just passed from Novak GTB + Novak 13.5SS PRO to Tekin RS PRO + Tekin Redline 13.5, i went down from 70 spur + 40 pinion to 72 spur + 36 pinion (without any programming, the Tekin shows to be faster already) ...
Anyone racing rubber asphalt 13.5 with Tekin on E4 that could give me any tips ?
thanks
I just passed from Novak GTB + Novak 13.5SS PRO to Tekin RS PRO + Tekin Redline 13.5, i went down from 70 spur + 40 pinion to 72 spur + 36 pinion (without any programming, the Tekin shows to be faster already) ...
Anyone racing rubber asphalt 13.5 with Tekin on E4 that could give me any tips ?
thanks
12-28-2009, 06:45 AM
#2793
I got a Tekin but I am thinking about the new LRP when it comes out. So far the car has been good. All I am doing now is trying to find a good balance front and rear and making sure I don't traction roll on the very high grip carpet.
Not thinking about a LRP now! Tekin ver.203 WOW
Not thinking about a LRP now! Tekin ver.203 WOW
Last edited by Isaac; 01-06-2010 at 08:27 AM.
12-28-2009, 07:13 AM
#2794
You got problems with traction roll with your car??
Dayum i wish i had that "problem"
From the looks on your car you got the right spings on it.
I don't use a swaybar on the rear when driving indoor and use 400 Tamiya oil in the shocks or 40WT asso oil.
What you can do if permitted is put traction fluid on the whole rear tire and on the front just the inside part(to about the middle of the tire).
This will take of the "bite" of the front tires when cornering. or just use harder tires
cheers Roy
Dayum i wish i had that "problem"
From the looks on your car you got the right spings on it.
I don't use a swaybar on the rear when driving indoor and use 400 Tamiya oil in the shocks or 40WT asso oil.
What you can do if permitted is put traction fluid on the whole rear tire and on the front just the inside part(to about the middle of the tire).
This will take of the "bite" of the front tires when cornering. or just use harder tires
cheers Roy
12-28-2009, 07:21 AM
#2795
I will try removing the rear sway bar as it may make the rear end more consistent. I ran 32s and it did do better with the traction rolling. I actually want to try 36s. I have 35 Associated oil in the shocks now. I already do the inside front tire deal. I always do that unless I start pushing.
You got problems with traction roll with your car??
Dayum i wish i had that "problem"
From the looks on your car you got the right spings on it.
I don't use a swaybar on the rear when driving indoor and use 400 Tamiya oil in the shocks or 40WT asso oil.
What you can do if permitted is put traction fluid on the whole rear tire and on the front just the inside part(to about the middle of the tire).
This will take of the "bite" of the front tires when cornering. or just use harder tires
cheers Roy
Dayum i wish i had that "problem"
From the looks on your car you got the right spings on it.
I don't use a swaybar on the rear when driving indoor and use 400 Tamiya oil in the shocks or 40WT asso oil.
What you can do if permitted is put traction fluid on the whole rear tire and on the front just the inside part(to about the middle of the tire).
This will take of the "bite" of the front tires when cornering. or just use harder tires
cheers Roy
12-28-2009, 07:35 AM
#2796
Try them only on the front first as the front is the one who causes the tracktion roll.
When i drive indoor i always have a harder tire at the front just to elimenate the traction roll.
On outdoor tracks it is the other way arround.
I use 30 lrp on the rear and sorex 28 on the front.
Indoor i use 28 sorex front and 24 on the rear but that is on a medium grip track.
cheers Roy
When i drive indoor i always have a harder tire at the front just to elimenate the traction roll.
On outdoor tracks it is the other way arround.
I use 30 lrp on the rear and sorex 28 on the front.
Indoor i use 28 sorex front and 24 on the rear but that is on a medium grip track.
cheers Roy
I will try removing the rear sway bar as it may make the rear end more consistent. I ran 32s and it did do better with the traction rolling. I actually want to try 36s. I have 35 Associated oil in the shocks now. I already do the inside front tire deal. I always do that unless I start pushing.
12-28-2009, 02:06 PM
#2798
Man hate to do it but my indoor/tc season is done .....
need to get ready for 8th scale in the spring i have a E4 JS 2 race old chassis it was my back up ....tons of spares u could build 2 1/2 cars oneway spool 3 reg diffs sway bars 8 shocks updated rear body mounts,updated A arms,extra ceramic bearings
$300 shiped anywhere $250 lower 48
going on fleabay soon
need to get ready for 8th scale in the spring i have a E4 JS 2 race old chassis it was my back up ....tons of spares u could build 2 1/2 cars oneway spool 3 reg diffs sway bars 8 shocks updated rear body mounts,updated A arms,extra ceramic bearings
$300 shiped anywhere $250 lower 48
going on fleabay soon
12-28-2009, 02:47 PM
#2799
Interesting setup..
We've moved to Turquoise front and purple rear.. that might flatten the car out for you. We run on road and I assume carpet is considered smooth.
12-28-2009, 03:51 PM
#2800
I would assume the top plate I have is the newest "foam spec" top plate. The hole was already there but I did enlarge it. I use Pro-Match batteries which are similar to other manufacturers. The top plate was a little close on both positive and negative and I used the dremel to trim a little to make things neat. I did not hack or take away from the top plate that much at all.
Not sure it will fit the previous version of the E4 but looking at both it looks like it will.
Why did you go up in spring rate?
Not sure it will fit the previous version of the E4 but looking at both it looks like it will.
Why did you go up in spring rate?
Will that top plate fit the old E4? I had to dremel away the old plate to get my banana plugs in and I see you have a hole? Is that a mod of your own or is it there by default?
We've moved to Turquoise front and purple rear.. that might flatten the car out for you. We run on road and I assume carpet is considered smooth.
We've moved to Turquoise front and purple rear.. that might flatten the car out for you. We run on road and I assume carpet is considered smooth.
12-28-2009, 04:00 PM
#2801
hi
can anybody tell me what I have to do to make the pictures visible?
I see only this:
[img=http://img692.imageshack.us/img692/1746/picsm.th.jpg]
can anybody tell me what I have to do to make the pictures visible?
I see only this:
[img=http://img692.imageshack.us/img692/1746/picsm.th.jpg]
12-28-2009, 07:13 PM
#2805
Tech Addict
iTrader: (21)
Was wondering the same thing... A PM from the seller of the cars I just picked up told me 24mm....
I believe he has told us before that he uses Pro-Match LiPo's... I would assume this one Pro-Match LiPo
But I am also curious about the connectors.. Seems a lot more bulky then regular plugs.. Is there a reason you are using them?
But I am also curious about the connectors.. Seems a lot more bulky then regular plugs.. Is there a reason you are using them?