I would have thought that this

New* Extra narrow 2.5mm chassis with Extra large motor cutout

Would have taken care of the motor clearence issue

To get the longer motors in like the DUO and Tekin I just take off the belt tensioner and back brace that runs over the the belt tensioner. I put the motor in and then put the tensioner and brace back on.

If you want to motor to have more movement you will have to dremel the belt tensioner a good amount. I did this and have plenty of motor movement now once I get the motor in. The Novak and Novak Ballistic fit great, the Losi brushless fit as will the Hackers. Most motors that have a taperd end on them fit without removing anything on the car.

BEaring wise you can soak them in denatured alcohol overnight and then lightly re-oil with a thin bearing oil. That is one of the best things to do. I did notice the belt on my E4FS is alot looser fitting than the one on my E4JS and that overall my JS version is not as free as my FS. Now I bought the car used and have not touched it at all but while it is not as free overall it is still very smooth with no rough spots.

I took a file to the chassis and widened the opening 1.8mm, pretty much everything fits in now. I was just under the impression that the David Ehrlich version had this done for you.

I made myself a gearchart and highlighted the 140 - 145 spur and pinion count to keep the motor centered.

im loving my JS havnt broke anything ...running it in VTA ...the bearings do need to be cleaned and re-oiled with something thinner than stock packing grease...$75 was a steal IMO ....my drive train has free'd up still never gonna be as free as some cars ..but the infields is where this car performs the 3 belt system is what helps this..

Hey all,

I've read through this ENTIRE thread :sweat: and obviously there is a lot of passion with respect to the E4!

I posted a similar post in the JRXS-R thread and thought I should post here as well. I'm interested in either the JRXS-R or the TM E4 to try to get back into TC racing. I really like the centralized battery design and can see how it might offer some real advantages over the more traditional design (even if it doesn't offer an advantage it's just really COOL!).

I was hoping to hear from folks who have experience with both cars who could give me some objective information about the pros/cons of both cars. Obviously neither car is perfect but I'd really like to hear some opinions on relative advantages/disadvantages of each.

Thanks in advance for any insight you could provide!

Cheers,
Mike

The only issue with this car is parts support, if you don't crash much this shouldn't be an issue. You can get parts in about 3 days from RC Mushroom and Wolf Hobbies has them in the US. I like the suspension much much better than the Losi and the option parts from Wolf and K Factory will cure any issues you may have with this car, alum front hubs seem to be an absolute must. This car is extremely easy to wrench on, I've had just about every brand of car and this one is the easiest by far. Quality wise it is similar to the Associated cars, not quite where Schumacher and Corrally are. I may do WCIC this year if you want to look at mine.

yeah its not bad, im really happy cause i think it might also have trf shocks on it..not 100% sure though. they have gunmetal shock bodies, blue shock adjustments and blue caps.

one question, i think ijust need to turn down my EPA but when i turn my front wheels all the way my CVAs seem to bind a bit, just the one turning in all the way. any thoughts? possibly my toe ?



edit: turns out its both of them that rattle, i can post a video if you guys would like to see


edit #2 : i just took it outside again and i guess its just because im using a spool that is causing the vibrations, its not really noticeable while driving around, mostly at low speeds its the worst.

my new problem is under power the car seems to pull to the side, though if i let off the throttle the car will track perfectly straight..the droop screws and ride height looks to be pretty even, though i do have a leaky shock, would that be it?

Anyone interested in a E4FS with Wold Hobbies alum 3 degree caster blocks (also have alum 6 degree blocks) Wolf rear alum hubs and Wold steel battery tray plus a ton of parts and and E4JS with TM spool in it shoot me a PM if interested. I can get pics but it is in great shape with no scratches on the chassis. Have over 700 invested in this car. Anyone looking to get into a TM car this is a cheap way to get one.:nod: Also have a Futaba 9551 I can include for a few dollars more.

I work weekends so I can't race touring cars so I'm going to just sell it.

Shame you have to sell them Wyd:rolleyes:
Just bought me a second E4FS,other wise i would have been interested.
If you sell the alloys parts seperately i might be interested.

cheers Roy

I hate to sell it but between working at the hobbyshop and then when not here the touring tracks are almost 2 hours away I will just sell it instead. Are shop has indoor offroad and dirtoval. We have 2 of the 5 largest races in the country at 350 plus but might turnout to be 400 plus.

Hi guys,

Im posting here the race report to share with you my experience so far with the E4 car. Im sponsored by the Chilean distributor of Team Magic, but they asked me to translate my spanish report and send it to factory so in the way to Taiwan, i would share it with you guys,

http://i221.photobucket.com/albums/d...ort_Page_1.jpg
http://i221.photobucket.com/albums/d...ort_Page_2.jpg

Thanks for all the help guys !!, you rock !!

ps : - The funny hats are because we raced that event during a national holliday and that is one of our traditional customs hat lol !!

cya !!

Pato Concha
Southamerica

Wyd,

You have a PM!

Cheers,
Mike

i remember seeing a 2 speed e4 before, does anyone have a link or anything? also would this be legal anywhere? or just for shits and giggles? :P i almost wanna try it on my js.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3...8f89VzEYI4.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3...1c45aomxro.jpg