Tamiya mini cooper
#1456
Tech Apprentice
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 87
From: Sydney
TYRE INSERTS
Hi All,
Just wondering what inserts you are using for the Tamiya 60D's for TCS racing. I have tried the using the black harder foam insert with the HPI mini insert. I have found that the insert moves inside the tyre carcass, creating a bulge and the tyre no longer runs true. I only use this type of insert on the front and only use one foam insert in the rear. I am currently running the HPI X pattern belted tyres which wear well, but don't have the speed of the 60D's. I have thought about using a cut down sorex insert and taping the join?
Any help would be appreciated.
Thanks
Calvin.
Just wondering what inserts you are using for the Tamiya 60D's for TCS racing. I have tried the using the black harder foam insert with the HPI mini insert. I have found that the insert moves inside the tyre carcass, creating a bulge and the tyre no longer runs true. I only use this type of insert on the front and only use one foam insert in the rear. I am currently running the HPI X pattern belted tyres which wear well, but don't have the speed of the 60D's. I have thought about using a cut down sorex insert and taping the join?
Any help would be appreciated.
Thanks
Calvin.
#1457
I was told by my LHS that the HPI mini inserti is smaller than the 60D insert. If you want something other than the Tamiya 60D inserts, you can use thier inserts as a pattern and cut down normal touring car inserts. The best glue I know is glue used to repair neoprene dive or surf suits.
#1458
One-way in a Mini is not TCS legal. Been there, asked the question, got the answer.
Contact cement works great for joining cut foam or molded inserts. Stays pliable, doesn't make the joint hard like CA, sticks better than tape.
Later
Doc
Contact cement works great for joining cut foam or molded inserts. Stays pliable, doesn't make the joint hard like CA, sticks better than tape.
Later
Doc
#1459
Originally Posted by rccardr
One-way in a Mini is not TCS legal. Been there, asked the question, got the answer.
Contact cement works great for joining cut foam or molded inserts. Stays pliable, doesn't make the joint hard like CA, sticks better than tape.
Later
Doc
Contact cement works great for joining cut foam or molded inserts. Stays pliable, doesn't make the joint hard like CA, sticks better than tape.
Later
Doc
Old guys rule!
Boomer
#1460
Originally Posted by rccardr
One-way in a Mini is not TCS legal. Been there, asked the question, got the answer.
Contact cement works great for joining cut foam or molded inserts. Stays pliable, doesn't make the joint hard like CA, sticks better than tape.
Later
Doc
Contact cement works great for joining cut foam or molded inserts. Stays pliable, doesn't make the joint hard like CA, sticks better than tape.
Later
Doc
[email protected]
thanks!
#1461
Originally Posted by caltech1
Hi All,
Just wondering what inserts you are using for the Tamiya 60D's for TCS racing. I have tried the using the black harder foam insert with the HPI mini insert. I have found that the insert moves inside the tyre carcass, creating a bulge and the tyre no longer runs true. I only use this type of insert on the front and only use one foam insert in the rear. I am currently running the HPI X pattern belted tyres which wear well, but don't have the speed of the 60D's. I have thought about using a cut down sorex insert and taping the join?
Any help would be appreciated.
Thanks
Calvin.
Just wondering what inserts you are using for the Tamiya 60D's for TCS racing. I have tried the using the black harder foam insert with the HPI mini insert. I have found that the insert moves inside the tyre carcass, creating a bulge and the tyre no longer runs true. I only use this type of insert on the front and only use one foam insert in the rear. I am currently running the HPI X pattern belted tyres which wear well, but don't have the speed of the 60D's. I have thought about using a cut down sorex insert and taping the join?
Any help would be appreciated.
Thanks
Calvin.
I have been using the hard foam insert w/ sorex C-med cut to size. Other 24 mm moulded insert will also work. It does need abit of skill to pack everything in there.
#1463
Take Off RP30 Mini tires and inserts came in and sold out in one day!
SoCal Raceway (Shop/Track) and Competition Products (Distributor) got all of them. Have your LHS contact Competition to get some or call us to get them on back order for the next (much larger) shipment.
SoCal Raceway (Shop/Track) and Competition Products (Distributor) got all of them. Have your LHS contact Competition to get some or call us to get them on back order for the next (much larger) shipment.
#1464
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 2,882
Hi Guys
Hopeing some one can help here I used to run minis a while back and then they became shelf queens. Anyway we are starting up an outlaw class (anything goes) but obviously these little things were designed to run 540 with set gearing. I heard some time ago there was a kit available to change the internal gearing ?? Has any one heard of these or where they may be available from?? Also final drive ratio ..
Has anyone or does anyone run modified motors and if so how have u managed to gear them? We have run 19t and stock but as mentioned the gearing isnt really suited and the cans run pretty hot yet alone modified motors which i want to use
Any advice or links would be greatly appreciated
Thanks
Hopeing some one can help here I used to run minis a while back and then they became shelf queens. Anyway we are starting up an outlaw class (anything goes) but obviously these little things were designed to run 540 with set gearing. I heard some time ago there was a kit available to change the internal gearing ?? Has any one heard of these or where they may be available from?? Also final drive ratio ..
Has anyone or does anyone run modified motors and if so how have u managed to gear them? We have run 19t and stock but as mentioned the gearing isnt really suited and the cans run pretty hot yet alone modified motors which i want to use
Any advice or links would be greatly appreciated
Thanks
#1465
Originally Posted by addicted
Hi Guys
Hopeing some one can help here I used to run minis a while back and then they became shelf queens. Anyway we are starting up an outlaw class (anything goes) but obviously these little things were designed to run 540 with set gearing. I heard some time ago there was a kit available to change the internal gearing ?? Has any one heard of these or where they may be available from?? Also final drive ratio ..
Has anyone or does anyone run modified motors and if so how have u managed to gear them? We have run 19t and stock but as mentioned the gearing isnt really suited and the cans run pretty hot yet alone modified motors which i want to use
Any advice or links would be greatly appreciated
Thanks
Hopeing some one can help here I used to run minis a while back and then they became shelf queens. Anyway we are starting up an outlaw class (anything goes) but obviously these little things were designed to run 540 with set gearing. I heard some time ago there was a kit available to change the internal gearing ?? Has any one heard of these or where they may be available from?? Also final drive ratio ..
Has anyone or does anyone run modified motors and if so how have u managed to gear them? We have run 19t and stock but as mentioned the gearing isnt really suited and the cans run pretty hot yet alone modified motors which i want to use
Any advice or links would be greatly appreciated
Thanks
I'm using M-03 set for outlaw.
#1467
Originally Posted by addicted
M-03 Chassis
The speed tune is not intend for mod motor or stock. I think it's for mabuchi / sport tuned (closed endbell).
It actually a lower teeth spur (can go down to 34T while the stock spur is 37T).
So you can get around 4,xxx for final ratio.
While for stock mod, use stock spur with lowest pinion teeth (16T). Perhaps using gear diff instead of ball diff to make the pinion last a bit longer.
And use alum motor heatsink like these one (clamp on the motor) beside the tamiya alum heatsink option
Be careful with the heat 'cause it can deform your plastic part.
My suggestion is to make as many hole on the chassis as possible to dissipate the heat and to reduce the weight.
I have a ref. web site which is in Jap. hope it helps.
here's the link : M-03 Racing
#1468
Originally Posted by akuhon
I have a ref. web site which is in Jap. hope it helps. here's the link : M-03 Racing
#1469
I think their net traffic a bit high. Try again a couple of hours.
The link is correct : http://tuyosi.ath.cx/nic/mini/M03.html
The link is correct : http://tuyosi.ath.cx/nic/mini/M03.html



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