Hi i'm running with the steering rods set at factory settings
(straight from the instructions) How will i check ?
I have a set up board and a new fasttrax set up kit and i have down-
loaded the x-ray set up book but not sure how the set up works with
the mini.
hope this makes sense.

A few things I did to get my M05 straight...

- Made sure the arms are free, dont over tighten them
- Shimmed the steering rack to get out "some of the slop"
- make sure the front end is free- Again dont over tighten anything including the wheels
- Put the heavy duty tamiya servo saver on

I had the same issues. I was using the stock sero saver and I could almost turn the wheels completely without the servo moving. Once I changed the saver the car was much more predictable. making sure the steering and front end is free. When all else fails try a new servo.

Anyone have recommendations for on-road Oztite carpet tracks?

EDIT:

I'm looking for good places to start tuning my M05 for carpet * I wasn't being clear enough

What tires should I run first of all...

You won't have any need for the fancy setup gear! There just aren't the adjustments available, and even if there were, there is so much free play in the Tamiya design that you can't set anything precisely.

The setup book won't get much use either. In my opinion, Mini "setup" is less about tuning the handling (because they always seem to handle about the same), and more about controlling the vices.

The steering system is one of the M05's biggest vices! Out of the box, it will wander on the straights. At it's worst, it can make the car undriveable.

I've had more than my share of troubles with the M-05 while trying to make it work with kit steering parts. Threw a load of hop-ups on it last night, raced it today, and TQ'd a meeting that I was 7th or 8th at last time out!

A list of things I have on my car that seem to help...

- High torque servo saver (#51000)
- Aluminium steering posts with some extra shims
- Run a couple of degrees toe-out on the front wheels (manual setting on the linkages gives that)
- Check that there is no binding whatsoever in the linkage - I had a slight bind in one of the steering cranks than needed to be reamed out
- Running the diff as a diff rather than as a spool-in-disguise

A list of things that don't seem to do any harm...

- Running a stiffer front spring (short blues vs short yellows on the rear)
- Raking the chassis (ie running the front a shade lower than the rear, I have the rear arms level and the front arms just below)
- Ball diff and UJs - take some of the judder out of the drivetrain
- Alloy long steering turnbuckle
- Spacing up the outer balljoint to minimise the bumpsteer.

A list of things that might also help (but which I don't have)...

- Full alloy steering rack and cranks
- Alloy steering uprights
- Alloy servo saver arm

You don't have to throw hop-ups at your car... but sometimes it helps!

I'm trying to find this thread. Anyone have a link to it ?

thanks

Hi,
Most of the time, factory setting will give you a base-line figure, and that's just about it! I've been chasing that elusive set-up for my m05 pro for almost 1 year. I was so frustrated that I almost thinking of selling the m05 and keep using my trusty m03r. This forum and some guys at the local track helps a lot.
The manual tells you to set the front steering linkage with 2mm distance between the two tie-rod connector, and most people recommend about 1 to 1.5 degree toe-out. Try to set the toe at about 0 degree at full compression, that will give you about 1 degree of toe-out at normal ride height (about arms level) and work it up from there. Taking out the the slop from the steering system helps.
Using set-up system doesn't benefit for m-chassis because there's only so much you can change, and most adjustment can be done without it. Using Tamiya Hi-Torque servo saver (#51000) is essential. Instead of using the included short ball connector, try using the 5mm reinforced ball connector that came with the TRF kits for the long steering rod. That will lessen the linkage slop.

Cheers.

Thank-you very much, Guddam, Susidge,& Gruman28
(strange names no offence ment).
Will try some of those hop-ups BUT it is nice to
know there not needed straight away unlike some models.

But the servo saver will be ordered as soon as pay day
comes.
Thank you all again.

Could somebody please tell me if the Tamiya TL-01 spur gears, counter gear etc are identical to the M-03 spur gears, counter gears etc? Are the M-05 gears also the same? I know this is a basic question but an answer would be appreciated. Thankyou.

TL-01 gears are different. A few may appear similar, but aren't.

Jim

The gear diff of the TL01 fits the M03/4/5.

Thankyou for the answer to my question. Thankyou also for the info on the gear diff being the same. Ian

im just about to buy a new m-05. what parts break for a newbe (what extra parts should i get)?

rear axles (can buckle if hit in the wrong spot)
G-Parts (always good to have a spare set)
uprights and knuckles (plastic parts do bend/break after a while)
ball studs (can sometimes snap off)
bellcrank (ive heard the kit parts are a bit dodgy)

hardened outdrives are a good choice, std wear quite quick, same goes with the pinion, fluorine one last some much longer.

im sure theirs more bits? that someone else may recommend that ive forgotten.

Alright, the Sakura FF geardiff fits M05/M06.

Just put mine together, and with some modifications it fits right in, at the end cover i took off the lip and filled it with #5000 Green Tamiya diff oil.

I decided to mount it into my M05, after a full nights racing not a drop has leaked and very happy with the smooth diff action it has. Same tension in diff for entire evening of racing.

Now the wait is for one more to add to my M06...

RossoTorro, nice!