Yeah and buy some new tyres when you find your nuts

Hey guys,

just got my first M03 RTR. I noticed that there is tyre rub on the front wheels on the fenders when turning the wheels. Is this common on the RTR units? What are the best fixes?

Thanks

Drive it hard and wear the tires down so they don't rub so much!!!

Seriously though, you could:

• Raise the body
• Reduce the wheel/tire size
• trim the wheel openings

One of those should do the trick.

the local track runs silver can motors whats a fair priced esc that will work well for my mo5?

Anyone has words yet on the Tamiya spec brushless esc/motor? Also, any recommendation for inexpensive ESC for Silver can motor and lipo battery. Thanks.

A few pages back people were taking about a Tekin B1 which you could get for around $40.

It's designed for 380 motors, but they reckon that people were running them in F1 with a big capacitor. They said without the capacitor they were frying the esc or something.

Personally i would look for something designed for a 540. A good ESC can make a difference.

Personally i got one of the first R1s (the unsensored version of the RS) which didnt work out. I reckon it's a gun brushed ESC, but seeing i use brushless all the time now it very rarely gets brought out.

What do you mean by tyre rub? Like you see scratches.
Or literally when you turn the wheel by hand its binding?

The suspension on a mini will actually move quite a lot in crashes (more than you can force it by hand) so scratches on the ends of the knuckles are not unusual.

If its binding you may want to try wider front hexes or wheel shims on the front (which is actually a common tuning option utilised by most drivers).

Ooops sorry you mean on the body? Well my car always has rubber marks in the top of the wheel arches. If it bothers you try mounting the body higher, cutting the arches back a touch or using smaller tyres. OOops rcnutbag already said all that!

Thinner hexes on the front will help, but i personally wouldnt do that.

I think this was already covered, and again for your pleasure.

Tekin Fx
Tekin B1 (need specialized parts)

LRP QC3

Novak GTX

Tamiya TEU ???? (Provided with kit)
There is probably other less know brands that work just as well. These are just the name brands.
Some people still believe the Tamiya ESC is good enough and never bother upgrading it.

thanks but i mean for an esc....not sure where to put my money....

PM sent!

IMO the Novak GTX is the best brushed only ESC todate. It has a really small foot print, very smooth, not to mention it'll take any motor you can throw at it without the need for a fan.

Jay

Novak GTX was always my favourite esc. But does not have lipo cut off.
People have told me they fade over time (but i never had a problem, but those people were probably running motors which were a lot powerfull than a sports tuned!).

From that same era the QC2(now qc3) was also highly regarded, but i preferred the GTX and that was always the esc i had in my mini. Dont forget which ever esc you go with you want to change the setting to give the most power (assuming it has options for it).

Personally these days if i were going to pick out a new brushed only esc i would go with the Tekin. They were really starting to get their stuff back together again at that stage. I never had one, but unfortunately it came out too late for it to make an impact on the brushed esc market.
I know one person who had one, and he reckoned it was fast. I have no reason to believe it wasnt.

For me the B1 may not be as fast as a proper 540 esc, you would need someone to do some back to back testing.

What upgrades do I need to make M05 std (MiTo body) race ready?

Which servo would you recommend (Futaba radio)

also...I would like to keep it TCS legal

the Novak GTS and TEkin Fx for silvrcans. both are around $80

Bearings.