I believe this is by Spectrum. The use of a "stutter stopper" capacitor will ensure the BEC voltage is kept as high as possible through the infield where servo movement and current consumption is at it's peak.

What this actually does it filters out all the hash caused by el cheapo servo's. I scoped it up when I was having RX issues on my Spektrum. Changing to Futaba/Savox servo's actually eliminated the need for the addon RX cap.

The voltage range for the SR3000 is 3.2v- 9.6V, I doubt the BEC voltage will drop to 3v.

This was what the f1 guys are using to run the B1 in their cars. Without it the esc would fry.

Thanks for the advice, I'll let you know what the end result is, if I decide to put this combo in my mini. I'm still a little hesitant about seeing if this will work in a mini (Tekin B1, silver can combo). It should work, but F1's are half the weight of mini's

Try it, it's only $40....

And be done with it, no need to go on for pages on this!

I tested 1/18th esc ezrun 18A with 13T/3000kv and it worked.
Got a little hot but worked well enough.

call it luck or whatever, i had never really tried to perfectly balance these cars. Weight is all around the centreline, and if you want, some offsetting the motor. In the m03, i have a huge chunk in the rear pod, stuck against the bottom. I run my GTX on top above the battery, with the reciever next to it. With the M05, i added alot around the electronics opening, opposite the motor side. Also i added some over the battery, opposite side to the motor. Ive never tried to balance them with balance spikes, i bet they are still way off, but ive found with a nice chunk of weight, you get the suspension working for you, instead of poggoing.

Hi guys, need some help with my m03

Went racing for the first time with the mini since the national champs a couple years ago, first time i ran it since last year, i dont know what happend, but it wouldnt corner, i would turn, and the rear end would just spin round on it, if i slowed down i could roll through it and then get on the power, but it would also roll over when spinning out,

the track surface was astroturf, at an indoor sports centre, but here in nz we cant use any hopups or anything, so its basic kit m03, the only thing we can do is sway bars and bearings,

any help would be cool
cheers
craig

are you running a lipo ??

try adding some weight to the rear of the car , cut 1 coil off each of the springs and add 100,000 shock oil inside the stock plastic shocks

The car that won our 6 uurs race was running kit shocks

nope ,not running a lipo, cant afford one yet, haha, i would cut the coils, and add the oil, but thats illegal here, cause this is a basic class, build and race effectivly,

kiwif103racer,

Very hard to second guess the cause to your cars woes. However did you fit new tyres prior to racing. If not they maybe your problem. Try changing to a new rubber front and back. What is your ride height? Are you running TRF shocks, super mini cva's or kit shocks. A rebuild on these with fresh oil may assist with tuning and handling.

I would also check to see if the suspension is binding and your drive chain is free.

Other than that go here and have a read, see if this helps:

http://www.rc-mini.net/joomla/index.php

Should give you some ideas to try.

Regards,

Calvin.

It has been my experience that when this happens..your front suspension is way too soft. Your front end has more traction than your rear and so it is digging in in the turn and locking up the car.Try harder springs on the front and if you have oil filled shocks try a firmer oil.

If you can only run standard kit, i assume that means you are running a gear diff in the front which cant be modified?

I think that is pretty typical of driving a mini with a free gear diff, in that you will need to drive the car pretty smooth through the corner.

However, if the tyres havent been raced in a while you may want to run your rear tyres on the front to scrub them in a bit then swap them back to the rear to see if they come good.

I raced on astro turf once, we were mainly using M Grips, Kit Tyres and HPi x-patterns (xpatterns only on the front). However, these days on carpet we have been using x-press tyres on the rear (dont use x-press rims though, they seem to shatter pretty easy around the edges).

Like sidecarphil1 said, i would probably also try experimenting with weight, although not really sure where to put it. Although i would keep it around the center line of the car and low down. So i guess on in the inside of the actual chassis in the rear.

Martin,

I don't think weight is the issue, as Craig isin't using a Lipo.

Craig,

Are you restricted to using only Tamiya tyres if not then try as Martin suggested the Express mini tyres on the rear and some worn Tamiya M grips on the front or HPI x patterns.

I would also soften the rear suspension to give back some rear grip and check your radio settings so that your steering rate is slowed down to make the car change direction smoothly.

Hope some of these suggestions assist with fixing your car problems. Remember just do one thing at a time and see what effect it has on the handling.

Regards,

Calvin.

hey guys, i have a bit of a problem with mini rules and motors, i are running silver can only in our club, so i went and got a 540 motor. when i went home and installed the motor i realized that its a goldish color instead of a silver color like my other one, i looked on tamiya site and all the motors that they list are marked with decals and major writing, is it a standard motor or not or did they change thinks up on the motors, its closed bell like the original. thanks guys.

I want to get into mini cooper racing and would like to know if its worth to pay extra for M05 pro, or should I get M05 and upgrade as I go?

Thanks,

M