JustMe2

iTrader: (29)

Instead of useing TC inserts, why not try these?

http://sweepracing.com/?cat=55

Molded to mini size already. Just a suggestion.

caltek1

iTrader: (38)

JustMe2,

Those inserts are fine in a 55mm diameter mini tyre.This covers the Rides, Pit Shimizu, HPI X patterns, Cross, etc.

The Tamiya 60D's are 60mm in diameter, so the small insert is free to move within the tyre, so not enough support for the tyre carcass. However if you want to use this insert then first place the foam insert into the tyre then add the 55mm insert and then fit to the rim. This way the moulded insert is against the rim.

The Sorex TC insert can be placed into the tyre without cutting and used with either the blue soft foam or the hard foam. With this method the moulded insert is against the tyre.

I have tried both and they do work. The smaller moulded insert just feels a little softer in the tyre.

Though now days I only use the small diameter tyres as they are far quicker on the track than the 60D's and give more steering. We have found that the 60D's push more through the corner especially now that we use the Hobbywing BL system in our mini's.

Regards,

Calvin.

JustMe2

iTrader: (29)

Yeah, thats what I was thinking. If you put the Tamiya foam insert outside the molded Sweep, it might make a good firm filled tire. Run hard Sweeps and adjust with the Tamiya, kinda like running low profile tires.


How about servo savers? My son broke the plastic ring on the stock one, it was old anyway. I noticed the High Torque #51000 or 50473 with the metal rings, are these any better or should I just get parts bag "B" to replace the plastic ring? We have a metal gear servo that was in the car when we bought it so we are covered there.

stitchy

iTrader: (13)

For those who are interested, HPI x-patterns for minis are back in stock @ Speedtech

http://www.speedtechrc.com/store/ebp...?catmainid=786

More belted ones came in, so if you're interested in those, contact Jeff

caltek1

iTrader: (38)

JustMe2,

The high torque servo saver 51000 with the alloy arm is the best option for the MO3. Another option is to place a zip lock around the standard servo saver or some just super glue the whole assembly.

My preference is the the first option.

For the MO5 I got the Pro kit which came with this option in the box.

Regards,

Calvin.

Hawk6

iTrader: (52)

Hi all,
After a two year absence, I’ve got the itch to get back into the Tamiya Championship Series race this year.

I just bought a used mini (M03) off RCTech and I need to get it ready to race. The last time I raced a mini was BL (Before Lipos), so I know I have to at least make some set-up adjustments or add weight because of the lipo battery.

My goal isn’t to win the A Main, I’d be thrilled to make the B. My goal is to have a good handling car so I can focus on driving.

I’ve raced minis in the past, and have read up on the great information at rc-mini.net, but I don’t really have time to read through 760 pages of this thread. So, I’d like to share my current plan and ask for any other suggestions.

Here’s my plan, front to back for a Tamiya legal mini racing on carpet:
• S- grip tires in front. Can I still double stuff with inserts as long as they don’t get ballooned?
• Oil shocks with an internal spacer to lower the ride height.
• Blue short springs in front.
• 40 wt oil in front
• Replace current dog bones with universals.
• Shim the gear diff to tighten it up some, so I don’t lose acceleration coming out of corners.
• Use a Tamiya aluminum motor heatsink, plus maybe a fan on the motor.
• Add weight at the battery to make up for the light weight lipo.
• Mount the receiver and ESC “saddle bag” style on the sides of the rear chassis.
• M-grip tires in the rear. Any advice on inserts or aren’t they critical here?
• Yellow or red short springs in the rear.
• 30-40 wt oil in rear shocks, internal spacer to lower ride height.
• Cleaned and lubed bearing in transmission and axles.
• No binding in the suspension anywhere.

I guess my main questions are tires, inserts, and adding weight to the chassis. Any advice that will help the cause is much appreciated.

Thanks.

niznai

Because they cost money.

Sorex inserts when are cooked expand and don't fit TC car tires anymore, so you might as well reuse them and save some money.

rccardr

iTrader: (8)

Hawk-
I think you've got it down pretty tight. Use Tamiya grey foam in the back tires and you should be good to go. Up front, a good combo is a narrow Tamiya blue sedan insert with about 3/8 inch cut out of it against the tread, and a Dave Jun dense foam insert cut down and put against the rim. Tire should be flat across (not crowned) when you're done and you may have to play with it a little to get it right.

See you at Trackside in April!
Doc

JustMe2

iTrader: (29)

Sorry, I don't race Taxi Cabs so this is not an option. Besides, these are cheap and the right size to begin with, thats why I threw it out as an option to all.

Thanks for the explaination though. Something I don't deal with in 1/12th scale.

Hey HAWK, I saw the mini you bought, it should be a great start to a winner for you. Thanks for posting up your ideas for set up. Being new to minis, I am trying to set up my son's car as far as tires and wheels, but have had some really cool people chime in here with advice.

Have fun racing!

Hawk6

iTrader: (52)

Thanks. My ideas for the set-up aren't really mine, they are what I collected from rccardr and many others. The set-up worked a couple years ago with those old Nimh batteries, so I just wanted to verify.

Yes, the mini I bought should be a great starting point. The price was right, especially since it came with a lipo. I sold some of the type A slicks to pay for the universals, so I'm a happy camper so far.

Pro10noob

iTrader: (13)

It also depends on your driving style on how you want to set up your M03.
Mine setup is:

Tamiya 600 oil in the front shocks
400 in the back
TRF 54000 shocks with 2 holes up front and 3 on the rear.
Springs front the hard white springs and on the back the red springs both the short version.
Tire at the front the Sgrip and at the back the Mgrip with the grey or blue sponge insert and at the front as hard as i can get(shaped hard insert from HPI)
Dogbones are gone and replaced with CVD's
Diff,i use the ball dif and if that isn't allowed i use the bevel gear diff with a lot of AW grease in it.
It makes the diff so much harder to rotate inside that it's like a ball diff.
I use the Swift body and have therefore more room inside the chassis to put a esc(tamiya nothing else is allowed) and the reciever there.
Ride hight is front 5mm and at the back 6mm.
If i have for some reason trouble with traction roll i put some CA glue on the outside of the front tires.
These are just the settings i use and can be totally rubbish for you but it is worth it to try.

cheers Roy

caltek1

iTrader: (38)

Hawk6,

I would suggest to place a piece of lead under the battery so the added weight is low. I would also suggest that you have a good servo saver fitted to your mini.

The rest seems similiar to what I used to run, except for our tracks we were adding more lead to stop the car from traction rolling. My MO3L was a porky 1530 gms, which made it the same weight as when running Nimh's.

My MO3's are now just my hack cars and have changed to the MO5.

Good luck with your racing. I see that you are getting your setup help from the best.

Regards,

Calvin.

caltek1

iTrader: (38)

niznai,

If you have nothing constructive to add, then don't.

What a totally ridiculous statement. If the insert has already expanded it will not have the same consistency, but then what ever works for you.

To be competitive you need to spend money, that's just the way it is.

Later,

Calvin.

1101

I tried these in the matching sorex tyres. Too much of an air gap, so I ended up
double stuffing with sorex insert & tamiya insert.
The sorex tyres are great,sooo much grip & last forever, even with a 9T motor wheelspinning all down the back straight.

caltek1

iTrader: (38)

If you feel that your mini tyre feels to soft in the centre, then try this:

Get some double sided tape, leave the plastic cover on one side, cut to width, to fit in the centre of the rim. Place the double sided tape around the middle of the rim and cut so that the two ends butt against each other. Then fit tyre and insert to the rim. Glue as per normal.

This will give support to the insert and tyre and make the tyre feel more consistant across its width. This is for mini rims with no cross plastic spacers in the rim. eg Tamiya Swift rims, Cross etc. This might not be legal for TCS events, however we don't run them down here.

Happy Racing,

Regards,

Calvin.