For straight line stability try tons of toe OUT.

The M05 has huge amounts of bumpsteer.

1mm of movement upward in travel creates about 2 degrees of toe in.

Look to make sure it does not toe in when chassis is compressed to the ground in the front.

I found this hard to believe but mine tracks straight as an arrow.

When the car is on the stand the toe OUT is unreal.

Toe it out again and again til it tracks straight, you'll see.

That's worth 4 cents ez.:sneaky:

is there an editable setup sheet to be had anywhere?

if there is, I can post a setup that worked well for me this past weekend.

highlights of it though are;
Front: S grips
White Springs with 3 mm limiters inside shocks

Rear: Type A slicks
White Springs 5 mm limiters
1.5 degree toe in blocks


Track became VERY grippy over the weekend, and the car was nice, not hint of slipping out the rear end, although could be made to tip over if you tried.

Oh and HPI Civic body.

Stu

I have one for the M05 (can't find one for the M03) ;) Tamiya gets all the credit for making the file, I just got bored with Adobe at work one day and made it editable and saveable ;)

shoot me a PM if you want it :)

MO5 SETUP
 

I have to agree with Bradd, that altering the rearend to the standard two degree rear uprights to be better on the MO5 on a tight technical track. On a bigger open track the 1.5 degree or zero degree will work on the rear. I suppose it depends on how you like your car to handle. The zero degree rear plastic hubs tend to reduce steering, so a little toe out may be neccessary.

The plastic front knuckles I used for a while and then changed to the Tamiya MO5 alloy offerings which seem to be good. These allow you to change the steering on the knuckle so it can be a little slower to react, by placing in the rear hole. These are the same as the MO3R knuckles. All issues with the front pulling left or right seems to come back to the the 'o' ring in the diff cup. I have found the black 'o' ring to be too thick and replaced them with a silicone 'o' ring. Some of the others are not using 'o' rings in the diff cups period.

The decision is yours , however the plastic MO5 front knuckles and rear uprights do use 1150 bearings which seem to be able to a knock, more so than the 1050's in the alloy parts.

The steering linkage is the other area to spend sometime getting right. I only have minimal slop in the standard Tamiya plastic steering rack. I used some 3 or 4mm diameter shims to fix it, using 0.1 and 0.2 mm shims.

Getting the balance correct on the MO5 is the other major factor to consider. Additional weight needs to be added to the chassis opposite the motor. How much is dependant on where you are running your RX, speedie, etc.

I use the two hole piston front and rear in M chassis TRF shocks with 40 weight oil. I also use full size TRF shocks with a 3mm spacer and use the same piston and oil.

I have found that the full size TRF seem to work well with TRF short red spring front and TRF short yellow or blue spring on the rear. I also use the Yeah racing gold spring on the front of my mini, when I think it needs to be softer.

My particular setup might not work for you, however it works presently for me. I also have my steering at -50% speed and steering curve at -30 on a Helios Ex-10 with spektrum pro module.

Hope some of that helps.

Regards,

Calvin.

grease for tamiya m03 gearbox
 

can anyone tell me what grease/oil should i use in the standard tamiya m03 gearbox pls

Pic of my Mini and its Driver. (not really, but I bought this for chasing him around.)



MOmo

I am over the MOON with all the positive and helpful replies here since last night! :cool::cool::)

Thank you


I can't wait to post up the experience and picts! Excited about my M05 again! :blush:

hello
i'm newbie whith my m03, i buy damper topcad, what number of oil inside to ride on the carpet, 35wt, under or upper,
excuse for my english but i'm french

Troublesome standard gears ?
 

Hi all.
Is anyone finding the gears in the MO5 are proving a little fragile? Not so much the diff but certainly the other two.
I am taking teeth off nearly every meeting on carpet and now and again on tarmac.
It's not only me a my club; a couple of others are having issues as well.

The reason isn't obvious to me as they are the same items that are in the M03; of which I never had to change in over 18 months of racing.

Any ideas?

Sorry to disappoint you but TOPCAD dampers leak. I had a set and regret buying them. Use TAMIYA's item no. 54000 aluminum dampers instead. That's worth .5c + tax.
Also check the link I posted above. There are lots of information there.

STEERING TROUBLES HELP!
 

I HAVE A M05 AND INSTALLED A NEW 540J AND OIL FILLED SHOCKS ALL THE WAY AROUND. NOW I HAVE PROBLEMS WITH THE LEFT HAND TURN BUCKLE HITTING THE MOTOR???? BROKE TWO BALL SOCKETS AND I WAS LUCKY TO MAKE IT THROUGH THE MAIN. THATS WHEN I NOTICED THE PROBLEM. WHAT HAPPEND???? WHY DO I HAVE THIS PROBLEM??? WHAT'S THE FIX??? (I DID COMPARE THE 2 MOTORS, SAME LENGTH)

SORRY NEW TO MINI'S, BUT I LOVE IT!!!:nod:

Alloy steering knuckles? I had this problem before with some alloy steering knuckles from one of the Chinese suppliers. They bend really easy and create all kinds of interference problems.

Other than that...I dunno.

Jim

No issues so far with my 05 gears.
I've put about 20 6 minute runs on it now, and stripped the gearbox down at the weekend to double check everything in between heats and all still looks well ( Yes Jim, you can strip it, remove the diff, adjust said diff, and re-assemble all in 12 minutes)

possible bad batch of material used in your gears?
or something else causing them to strip, like not using the front bumper or just hitting boards??

First I've heard that happen to anyone though.

That's because you're focused, Stu. I'm about as focused as a heavily caffeinated schizophrenic cat in a room full of mice and laser pointers.

Jim