Go Back  R/C Tech Forums > General Forums > Electric On-Road
Tamiya mini cooper >

Tamiya mini cooper

Like Tree288Likes

Tamiya mini cooper

Old 11-08-2008, 11:01 AM
  #7621  
R/C Tech Elite Member
iTrader: (10)
 
monkeyracing's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Calgary, AB
Posts: 6,305
Trader Rating: 10 (100%+)
Default

Does anyone here have the 3Racing heatsink for their car?

The reason I ask is that it comes with a blue aluminum part that looks like a motor plate, but it's a little oddly designed.

Anyone know what that blue plate is, what it does, where it fits, etc?
monkeyracing is offline  
Old 11-08-2008, 12:22 PM
  #7622  
Tech Elite
iTrader: (28)
 
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Brisbane
Posts: 3,156
Trader Rating: 28 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by monkeyracing
Does anyone here have the 3Racing heatsink for their car?

The reason I ask is that it comes with a blue aluminum part that looks like a motor plate, but it's a little oddly designed.

Anyone know what that blue plate is, what it does, where it fits, etc?
I beleive it fits to the place where you have the little window to see the pinion mesh, where the different motor mount/pinion holes are

is this it?


Last edited by Ashley Cobb; 11-08-2008 at 12:28 PM. Reason: 3rd time lucky
Ashley Cobb is offline  
Old 11-08-2008, 12:28 PM
  #7623  
Tech Adept
iTrader: (10)
 
I12PonU's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2008
Posts: 108
Trader Rating: 10 (92%+)
Default

That heatsink actually looks like it'll work better than the tamiya one.
I12PonU is offline  
Old 11-08-2008, 03:01 PM
  #7624  
Tech Elite
iTrader: (38)
 
caltek1's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2007
Posts: 3,422
Trader Rating: 38 (100%+)
Default

I have one of these fitted. It actually works better than the Tamiya one, as it is mounted by two seperate screws with an aluminium conduit to the external heatsink. Plus you also use the motor screws as well.

monkeyracing,

The blue plate fits internally in the motor cavity and takes the place of the cardboard heat gasket. The blue plate screws to the external heatsink. You use the holes you are not using for motor fitment. ie if you use the 20 tooth pinion then use the 16 or 18 holes for the heatsink screws. Hope that helps.

Though by the Mini rules not legal to use. So I will have to remove before Nationals.

Later

Calvin.

Last edited by caltek1; 11-08-2008 at 03:05 PM. Reason: xtra txt
caltek1 is offline  
Old 11-08-2008, 11:15 PM
  #7625  
Tech Elite
iTrader: (24)
 
Benzaah's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Australia
Posts: 2,030
Trader Rating: 24 (96%+)
Default

Hey guys im after some tuning advice again. Coming flat out through the middle esses going from hard left to hard right, im finding that the car lifts off the rear slightly and then gets a bit tail happy when it comes back down. My car is at 1400grams now, would adding 50 or 100 grams in the back bumper help this much? or should i be looking at lengthening my shockers to get more droop? or stiffening up the front suspension to create less transfer? I'm running trf m chassis shocks with 35wt front blue springs and 45 wt rear with yellow springs. With 32 spice up front and 36 powers on the rear. I'm about a second and a half of the pace but feel this issue is costing me the most.
Benzaah is offline  
Old 11-08-2008, 11:17 PM
  #7626  
Tech Elite
iTrader: (28)
 
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Brisbane
Posts: 3,156
Trader Rating: 28 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by Benzaah
Hey guys im after some tuning advice again. Coming flat out through the middle esses going from hard left to hard right, im finding that the car lifts off the rear slightly and then gets a bit tail happy when it comes back down. My car is at 1400grams now, would adding 50 or 100 grams in the back bumper help this much? or should i be looking at lengthening my shockers to get more droop? or stiffening up the front suspension to create less transfer? I'm running trf m chassis shocks with 35wt front blue springs and 45 wt rear with yellow springs. With 32 spice up front and 36 powers on the rear. I'm about a second and a half of the pace but feel this issue is costing me the most.
have you got spacers under the shock pistons?
Ashley Cobb is offline  
Old 11-08-2008, 11:40 PM
  #7627  
Tech Elite
iTrader: (7)
 
tony gray's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: Melbourne, Australia. Home of rc-mini.net
Posts: 3,549
Trader Rating: 7 (100%+)
Default

It's a weird tyre combo for a start...

General consensus is the SOFTER tyres go on the rear. So what you're experiencing could well be the rear letting go.
tony gray is offline  
Old 11-09-2008, 12:46 AM
  #7628  
Tech Elite
iTrader: (8)
 
Drifting101's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Melbourne, Aus
Posts: 2,199
Trader Rating: 8 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by edwintklee
errm...i got the theory, spread weight have lower Cg...like M03R, the alu rear upright help with the Cg of the car.....cos i have race with a lighter M03R which would NOT traction roll at corners..even sharp 1..

now i just need to reduce the weight to make if faster...


fyi, i an running foam tyre on asphalt. the foam its about 2 mm thick.

please correct me if i am wrong.

just my 2 cents..... peace


If you want to stop rolling i found that a heavy front bumper does the trick best mine is 80 grams


and if you are still strugling turn your radio down
Drifting101 is offline  
Old 11-09-2008, 05:17 AM
  #7629  
Tech Elite
iTrader: (24)
 
Benzaah's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Australia
Posts: 2,030
Trader Rating: 24 (96%+)
Default

Originally Posted by Ashley Cobb
have you got spacers under the shock pistons?
Ive just pulled apart the shocks and the front shocks have spacers but the rears do not. There are also some spongy type things under the rubber bladder that sits on top of the shock. When pulling the rear end apart it seems like the rear left arm was binding and the suspension arm wouldnt fall naturally. Possibly part of my problem.

Originally Posted by tony gray
It's a weird tyre combo for a start...

General consensus is the SOFTER tyres go on the rear. So what you're experiencing could well be the rear letting go.
Its what was suggested by one of the faster guys and I guess he was leading me down the wrong path...
Benzaah is offline  
Old 11-09-2008, 05:51 AM
  #7630  
Tech Addict
iTrader: (2)
 
Join Date: Jun 2008
Posts: 538
Trader Rating: 2 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by tony gray
As far as we're concerned, yes. But orange ones look cooler......
Thought the orange ones do not quite match my white and blue mini cooper, so I got the white ones! On initial run on a public road, the rear seems a little loose, steering became very response and sensitive! turned down my radio ARC and D/R and put another thin spacer on the rear shocks (using hard springs in frt and soft at rear)and the car seems to be handling very well now! Can't wait to try it out on the track soon!

p.s. just curious does anyone know which 1:1 tyre the X-tyres are modeled after?
stocker is offline  
Old 11-09-2008, 06:21 AM
  #7631  
Tech Apprentice
 
P956LH's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Montreal
Posts: 57
Default

Yokohama Advan 032R.
P956LH is offline  
Old 11-09-2008, 11:27 AM
  #7632  
R/C Tech Elite Member
iTrader: (10)
 
monkeyracing's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Calgary, AB
Posts: 6,305
Trader Rating: 10 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by caltek1
I have one of these fitted. It actually works better than the Tamiya one.................
Thanks for the info, Cal. I did some searching last night, and on about the 1 millionth page, I found a description of this thing. Not as concise and detailed as yours, but I sort of got the idea.

I assume that you're running TCS rules?

Thanks also to Ashley for the diagram. I wondered how it was this thing was assembled. Looks a little complicated, doesn't it?

Jim
monkeyracing is offline  
Old 11-09-2008, 02:50 PM
  #7633  
Tech Elite
iTrader: (28)
 
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Brisbane
Posts: 3,156
Trader Rating: 28 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by monkeyracing
Thanks for the info, Cal. I did some searching last night, and on about the 1 millionth page, I found a description of this thing. Not as concise and detailed as yours, but I sort of got the idea.

I assume that you're running TCS rules?

Thanks also to Ashley for the diagram. I wondered how it was this thing was assembled. Looks a little complicated, doesn't it?

Jim
n/p mate
Ashley Cobb is offline  
Old 11-09-2008, 03:41 PM
  #7634  
Tech Elite
iTrader: (95)
 
SerpentCT4S's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: NYC
Posts: 2,934
Trader Rating: 95 (96%+)
Default

I just picked up a Tamiya Mini Cooper from a friend at work, kit #58211. It is new in the box. The box was opened and didnt have the instructions but I just downloaded it and I am printing it out now.

What are some nice upgrades for this car?

Last edited by SerpentCT4S; 11-09-2008 at 04:07 PM.
SerpentCT4S is offline  
Old 11-09-2008, 04:39 PM
  #7635  
Dan
Tech Champion
iTrader: (75)
 
Dan's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2001
Posts: 6,322
Trader Rating: 75 (100%+)
Default

http://www.rc-mini.net/MiniWeb_Online/Main.html
Dan is offline  

Thread Tools
Search this Thread

Contact Us - Archive - Advertising - Cookie Policy - Privacy Statement - Terms of Service -

Copyright © 2024 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands. All rights reserved. Use of this site indicates your consent to the Terms of Use.