295LikesTamiya mini cooper
06-28-2016 | 05:04 PM
Yes, we had an open dirt area too, ..it was a very large area as our home was on a new development. There were about 7 kids all about the same age in our neighborhood who all had RC cars. What I can remember being represented was:
-a few Tamiya Frogs
-1 Tamiya Hornet (my car)
-1 Tamiya Wild Willy Jeep
-1 Tamiya Hot Shot (this was a bad ass car back in the day) ...i believe it was the only one w/ 4 wheel drive
-1 RC10 (my one friend lived w/ his dad and got all the coolest toys). That RC10 was super awesome!
It was a great scene seeing all these RC vehicles racing around all day long. We'd make tracks and play games of RC tag. Good fun. ...one thing I remember w/the mechanical speed controls was that they were always blowing fuses. I think the stock fuses were way too weak, ...so we'd take the fuses out and hardwire everything. The good 'ol days!
-a few Tamiya Frogs
-1 Tamiya Hornet (my car)
-1 Tamiya Wild Willy Jeep
-1 Tamiya Hot Shot (this was a bad ass car back in the day) ...i believe it was the only one w/ 4 wheel drive
-1 RC10 (my one friend lived w/ his dad and got all the coolest toys). That RC10 was super awesome!
It was a great scene seeing all these RC vehicles racing around all day long. We'd make tracks and play games of RC tag. Good fun. ...one thing I remember w/the mechanical speed controls was that they were always blowing fuses. I think the stock fuses were way too weak, ...so we'd take the fuses out and hardwire everything. The good 'ol days!
Those were definitely good times. We all just had fun with RC.
07-05-2016 | 10:50 AM
07-08-2016 | 12:19 AM
Tech Regular
Joined: Jun 2014
Posts: 290
From: Australia
I've been playing with my SWB m05 trying to get it to handle as well as my MWB. I really want to run my Mini Cooper body for racing, but at the moment the MWB with Blitzt GT body is still quicker. I'm slowly getting there.
One major difference between the two cars is that on the MWB I am using the V2 chassis and running square lipo packs. Whereas on the SWB I am running the original chassis with round battery pack. The trouble is, the leads coming out the end of the round body push on the body and distort it. This results in the wheel arches rubbing on the tyres. This is not helped by the fact that we run larger wheels (ride mc38). I don't want to spend money on this second car as its really only for testing.
Has anyone got a solution for this?
One major difference between the two cars is that on the MWB I am using the V2 chassis and running square lipo packs. Whereas on the SWB I am running the original chassis with round battery pack. The trouble is, the leads coming out the end of the round body push on the body and distort it. This results in the wheel arches rubbing on the tyres. This is not helped by the fact that we run larger wheels (ride mc38). I don't want to spend money on this second car as its really only for testing.
Has anyone got a solution for this?
07-09-2016 | 12:41 AM
I built and tested my Ver II R and it's pretty good. I had to put the yellow kit springs in front and the reds in back to reduce oversteer, but otherwise I am just running the kit setup.
One question:
The threaded shock collars turn too easily. Just the vibration of running the car will cause them to drift. Unlike other cars I have built, they don't have the o-ring that goes in the shock collar, in fact there is no groove inside the collar to fit an o-ring. Any ideas on how to cure this?
One question:
The threaded shock collars turn too easily. Just the vibration of running the car will cause them to drift. Unlike other cars I have built, they don't have the o-ring that goes in the shock collar, in fact there is no groove inside the collar to fit an o-ring. Any ideas on how to cure this?
Last edited by funked1; 07-09-2016 at 01:01 AM.
07-09-2016 | 03:58 AM
I usually run minimal droop in those situations and apply light pre-load on the springs and spring seats/adjustment collar.
Most of my cars run the similar adjustment collar dampers. None of them use the rubber o-rings as it distorts the setting. I've not had any issues on the same BigBores I installed on my M03 and M05 the other day, btw.
Most of my cars run the similar adjustment collar dampers. None of them use the rubber o-rings as it distorts the setting. I've not had any issues on the same BigBores I installed on my M03 and M05 the other day, btw.
07-09-2016 | 07:55 AM
I built and tested my Ver II R and it's pretty good. I had to put the yellow kit springs in front and the reds in back to reduce oversteer, but otherwise I am just running the kit setup.
One question:
The threaded shock collars turn too easily. Just the vibration of running the car will cause them to drift. Unlike other cars I have built, they don't have the o-ring that goes in the shock collar, in fact there is no groove inside the collar to fit an o-ring. Any ideas on how to cure this?
One question:
The threaded shock collars turn too easily. Just the vibration of running the car will cause them to drift. Unlike other cars I have built, they don't have the o-ring that goes in the shock collar, in fact there is no groove inside the collar to fit an o-ring. Any ideas on how to cure this?
07-09-2016 | 05:42 PM
Tech Adept
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 247
From: Beach
funked1,
Even the blue thread lock is too severe to use on shock bodies. Take a box cutter and scribe a line down the shock body threads. You'll probably have to scribe twice. The adjusters will still turn with finger pressure, but won't change setting as you run. Good luck.
Even the blue thread lock is too severe to use on shock bodies. Take a box cutter and scribe a line down the shock body threads. You'll probably have to scribe twice. The adjusters will still turn with finger pressure, but won't change setting as you run. Good luck.
07-09-2016 | 06:01 PM
funked1,
Even the blue thread lock is too severe to use on shock bodies. Take a box cutter and scribe a line down the shock body threads. You'll probably have to scribe twice. The adjusters will still turn with finger pressure, but won't change setting as you run. Good luck.
Even the blue thread lock is too severe to use on shock bodies. Take a box cutter and scribe a line down the shock body threads. You'll probably have to scribe twice. The adjusters will still turn with finger pressure, but won't change setting as you run. Good luck.
Thanks for reminding me!!!