That looks like it might be "do-able" with a drill press, vise, hacksaw, and "manual mill" (a.k.a. hand file). It will take some time, but it should also last forever.

A lot of these motors come in a couple variations. I was at the till last year, about to drop cash on a couple Trinity killshot motors, when the clerk pointed out to me that these were the rpm versions, not the torque versions I wanted.

If the powerband of a motor is fine, but there is too much torque off the line, your esc might be able to adjust the amount of punch.

I like that the TrackStar motors have a non-bend at the solder terminals. I had to straighten the Vulcan one when I installed it on my V2 and soldered the straightened area so that it would not break off. I was like really..? Geez, Tamiya :weird:

I will give the red can a try next time around.

You can use a ball diff from a TA03 (P/N: 53267) or the M05 ball diff (P/N: 54194)

I see... I need to try the 12.3mm rotors down the road then for sure. :nod:

As for the punch, I have it set at 'one' which is supposed to be the softest, plus EXPO on my radio. It still had too much abrupt throttle for my V2 to handle.

But honestly speaking, my V2 sucks, now that I had time to really compare them with my dialed in SabreFD Mini and latest rebuilt M03. I can't get the V2 to dial in very well. I need to stiffen the diff and work the suspension some more. I may even start using the monkeyracing diff in my V2.

I currently run the TA03 diff and it's too loose. I need to take out one of the bell washers for sure.

Also, any comments on the 3Racing gear diff? Any leaks? :)

This. Maybe it's my Hobbywing Juststock that's holding my car back. It's on my list of things to check.

I was going to suggest 3D printer unless it has to be metal.

The 3racing diff is a good standard diff. It has a gasket, which will prevent oil from spinning out. A good idea is to use green slime to coat the gasket and housing. Personally, I use 2.5 million to do this.

Like Jim and AJ, I switched out the aluminum outdrives for the steel ones.

Thanks, I shall give this 3Racing diff a try. I use GreenSlime for all my oil diff installs, but it appears to be the o-ring that makes the real difference between leaking and non-leaking. I wonder if the Kyosho o-rings fit in these..

If I had access to a local (and cheap) shop, I'd have a set made. Given I'm also unsure on the dimensions, I'll see if I can manually whittle them out of another material first.

This would be great for prototyping. This is probably the first and only time I'll ever want a 3D printer. The finished parts will be under a lot of stress, however, so a solid hunk of metal would be best.

Hey Osheman
Are you runing full or shorty lipo ? 6200 or 7200? Thanks

Ran Full Length R1-Wurks 6000

Anyone ever painted their Mini chassis? How were the results?

This crossed my mind several times. Yet since I race mine I don't see any value to this and it may even disqualify me. I would be careful w/ spray paint (if you go this route) as it may react negatively with the Tamiya plastic (Tamiya plastic can tend to crack w/ certain solvents).

I have been waiting for Tamiya to release the M05 V2 chassis in fruity colors like they did w/ the M05.

No leaking with mine. Its great.

When you order it, also order a set of the steal/hard outdrives as the stock ones are too soft.

Ryan