Look for 3.5mm bullet connectors at almost any real/ online hobby shop. I tend to buy 10prs at a time, either from eBay or Hobbyking.

Thanks Guys!

So just ensure tight steering with the linkages and shim the axles out a little bit (lots of play from bearing sliding in and out) and eyeball the toe. Now my servo shakes back and forth once in a while...I was looking at it and it was doing the funky chicken and yesterday while i was racing on my little chalk outline track...it just didn't steer sometimes?? Is the servo on the fritz??

That's probably because either your radio or the servo (or both) is crap (by design or use).

To take out the play you need to address the ballcup/balljoint slop, the bearing play, the axle play and so on. You can do it (I do), but as has been said, it's not necessary for everybody.

Once all the slop is out, a setup station can be very helpful, if only to tell you something is wrong with the car. For instance, you can find an unequal toe problem on the rear where it isn't adjustable and points to some underlying problem (chassis/hub carrier, etc).

What is the ball cup/ball joint? Is that where the drive axle meets the hub axle.

I have an extra servo so I'll swap it out and see tn if it's better. It is pretty old.

ball cups

http://www.oople.com/rc/photos/revie...ga/rodends.jpg

These connect to the ball part of the balljoint

A couple of guys at my local track have just got these
http://www.hobbyking.co.uk/hobbyking...dProduct=78032. It's a rebrand of the Nanda NRX-12 they seem to be very good for the money.

For the tie rods right? I got the the 3 racing linkage kit that has those. Tightened a lot of the play up. Now I just have to get the 3 racing linkage kit with the wiper arms.

Now for the ball cups for the axle...should I tighten the play up in that with a bigger o ring or something??? Or is that supposed to have a little bit of play?

What many new to Minis don't realize is that throughout the suspension and steering components extensive use is made of air bearings. These air bearings are marvelous components because they are free, frictionless, invisible and self-installing. They are of the proper side and modifying parts and the air bearing holders can interfere with their proper function.

It usually is best not to mess with the air bearings and leave as installed. Just keep the air bearing holders in the various parts in good order and keep the various components don't loosen and allow air bearings that are too large or erratic in shape. The general rule is to not mess with air bearings until you have extensive experience with them. Manydon't even know of there existence

I've seen this car, but :
A) there's no parts availability
B) I've got issues with Hobbyking. They have had 2 of my speedos for repair for 5 weeks & can't get a status update from them. One of the esc's was brand new.

I'm not buying anything else from them, at least til this is sorted.

Parts here: http://www.hobbyking.co.uk/hobbyking...sis_Parts.html

Motor aside, is it worth buying ?

I really enjoy my M-Four. It's a great car. The only thing I needed were some Kyosho o-rings for the diff (oil leaked from axle cup side :rolleyes:) and some Green Slime as well (leaked from the belt side :rolleyes:). That plus running AE diff oil 3K and 5K, no more leaks. :D

There's a M-Four thread if you want to check it out. I got most of my info there when starting out. You also need to get the 2820 sized 2S Lipo's too unless you can find short shorties to fit under the belt + servo relocation kit Tamiya has available.

EDIT: I bumped up the M-Four thread for you.

Niznai, how do you go about removing play ball cup/balljoint?

I have a lot of play through the entire steering setup when compared with my touring cars. I don't want to get rid of all of it, but surely reducing it would be helpful.

Yes also for niznai the axle play....would o rings help?