Has anyone tried the new version II chassis on their version I car ? Will this help the handling problems ? Are other parts needed ? I'm about to order some parts and have the option of buying the chassis.

I have. I can't say it made a huge difference. Although I kept the original motor mount. I have just ordered the V11 motor mount, so hopefully that makes a difference.

The main reason I changed the chassis was so that I could run just one type of battery in all my cars. This probably works against my handling problems.

I have the M05 and V2. NIGHT AND DAY difference in performance. :D

Be sure to setup the V2's dampers in reverse to your M05. V2 uses stiffer springs in the back.

So is it safe to say use AW grease for ceramic thrust bearings too? :confused:

What are the things that you would still consider a principle of an m05? Springs? Oils? Toe? Camber? Ride height? Driving technique?

I've always used stiffer springs in the back on both my m05 and v11

Hummm... my M05 likes stiffer springs in the front. :confused:

Anyone got one for sale? Funny I started this thread years ago and thinking of coming back. Looking for an M05. Please email me at [email protected]

None of the above, cause so much of that kind of thing is track specific. There are some things you could call the usuals, but they aren't the "allwayses" that they need to become principles. For example, using less toe makes the car turn quicker or become more responsive----usually, but not always. I generally like to give voice to an opinion, when someone is having a specific problem. Mainly cause you can deal with the usuals. You can then answer the query by having them try a number of usuals that usually will reduce or alleviate the problem.

There is one thing that is a principle, but will only make sense to the thoughtful. I almost always lately, make some sort of a change on every single run. Doesn't always make it better, but you'll always learn something----even if it's "don't do that again". Another one is to not run more than a few laps if the cars not handling. There are others and most of us have them.

Believe me, I'm only just half kidding or joking.

Huh, I did not know these cars shared the same teeth count..

http://www.rctech.net/forum/members/...1061-gears.jpg

Up to p3 today. :D The MIP hex bits did well.

http://www.rctech.net/forum/members/...sabre-mini.jpg

Just read my post and realized that it pretty much echoes advice I got early in my R/C car experience. I started at SoCal Raceway which was the home track for a number of factory drivers and any number of talented amateurs.

Essentially, this is what I was told. Put in a lot of track time and keep on working on your car. It took a long time to finally figure out what they were saying. In my last post, I translated it for you-----otherwise it could sound like a non answer.

Yup, drive more laps, spend less money. Seems counterintuitive, but it works.

Sakadachi, same tooth count, same weird gear pitch. Seems almost planned!

Think we mighta just mentioned that a coupla years back..

http://i410.photobucket.com/albums/p...psgpesoydg.jpg

Thanks guys, but doesn't the ver II have other differences ? Lower suspension settings or something like that ?

51000 issues
 

Hi all

I'm having an issue with my new 51000 saver and Tamiya alloy horn on my M05 V2. It's mounted on a brand new Savoz 1251 and it has a lot of play, as the horn is sliding back and forth quite a bit over the plate with the 3 rings. I've had these before on my old M05 with no issue. I put the two gold rings on first and then the black ring last. I've tried the servo with a sold horn to check it and it's nice and tight.

I don't really want to go for a Kimborough as I liked the old Tamiya horn and saver on my M05, and I guess a solid horn would just kill the servo or bust something else in a hard crash.

Any ideas?

Cheers!