R/C Tech Forums

R/C Tech Forums (https://www.rctech.net/forum/)
-   Electric On-Road (https://www.rctech.net/forum/electric-road-2/)
-   -   Tamiya mini cooper (https://www.rctech.net/forum/electric-road/20068-tamiya-mini-cooper.html)

patorz31 06-19-2015 01:16 PM

I use the Kit screws they work great if you have the right screw driver. They aren't Philips screws, they are JIS screws. with the right screwdriver you can crank some torque to them. The philips screwdrivers "Cam out" of the JIS screws and cause all sorts of headaches.

sakadachi 06-19-2015 01:38 PM


Originally Posted by patorz31 (Post 14060549)
I use the Kit screws they work great if you have the right screw driver. They aren't Philips screws, they are JIS screws. with the right screwdriver you can crank some torque to them. The philips screwdrivers "Cam out" of the JIS screws and cause all sorts of headaches.

I file off the driver tips to make them fit perfectly. I can crank them very hard without breaking the heads. :D

howardcano 06-19-2015 02:29 PM


Originally Posted by monkeyracing (Post 14060508)
My advice for tapping 3mm threads: don't buy the Dubro tap at your LHS! They're slightly oversized and leave everything too loose.

ALL taps are oversized. They need to be to make sure that a screw will enter the tapped hole without binding. (There are different classes of taps and screws depending on the desired design clearance.)

For plastic, I use taps made from spare screws or turnbuckles. I go through several and pick the one with the smallest major diameter, then cut a short, shallow lengthwise slot at the end of the screw with a Dremel cutoff wheel. Presto! A tap with no design clearance, and very cost-effective, too!

When using these to tap plastic, the plastic will stretch a little, so after tapping the full length of the hole, a screw will still be a snug fit, and not readily back out.

Granpa 06-19-2015 08:29 PM


Originally Posted by howardcano (Post 14060611)
ALL taps are oversized. They need to be to make sure that a screw will enter the tapped hole without binding. (There are different classes of taps and screws depending on the desired design clearance.)

For plastic, I use taps made from spare screws or turnbuckles. I go through several and pick the one with the smallest major diameter, then cut a short, shallow lengthwise slot at the end of the screw with a Dremel cutoff wheel. Presto! A tap with no design clearance, and very cost-effective, too!

When using these to tap plastic, the plastic will stretch a little, so after tapping the full length of the hole, a screw will still be a snug fit, and not readily back out.

Like I said before-----smart guy that Howard. That's brilliant. Clean the threads up with a die and you've got a very effective tap.

What I used to hate was how difficult it was to run the screws in the last few mm. You almost had to have gorilla forearms.

monkeyracing 06-19-2015 10:15 PM


Originally Posted by Granpa (Post 14060939)
Like I said before-----smart guy that Howard. That's brilliant. Clean the threads up with a die and you've got a very effective tap.

Yep, he's a fairly bright guy. I did this once, but completely forgot about it. Thanks for the reminder!


You almost had to have gorilla forearms.
I don't see a problem with this. I consider my ape-like physique quite charming. (And I use an electric driver most of the time.)

howardcano 06-20-2015 05:01 AM


Originally Posted by Granpa (Post 14060939)
Clean the threads up with a die and you've got a very effective tap.

Oops, I forgot to mention that part!

niznai 06-20-2015 05:16 AM


Originally Posted by monkeyracing (Post 14060508)
I remember Aaron. Too funny! Did pretty well, as I recall.

My advice for tapping 3mm threads: don't buy the Dubro tap at your LHS! They're slightly oversized and leave everything too loose.

That's because it's not a metric tap but a badge engineered SAE (or some other stuff like that). I don't think Dubro make anything in metric sizes.

niznai 06-20-2015 05:21 AM


Originally Posted by patorz31 (Post 14060549)
I use the Kit screws they work great if you have the right screw driver. They aren't Philips screws, they are JIS screws. with the right screwdriver you can crank some torque to them. The philips screwdrivers "Cam out" of the JIS screws and cause all sorts of headaches.

True. Still need to apply pressure whilst turning.

Besides, have you seen the looks on peoples' faces behind the counter when you ask for a JIS screwdriver?

Outside Japan I only found them in old (sixties/seventies) Toyota/Honda OEM toolkits and they're a bit on the large side for 3mm screws.

Granpa 06-20-2015 08:24 AM

I bought the screw drivers from Tamiya. Theirs work just fine.

patorz31 06-20-2015 08:47 AM


Originally Posted by niznai (Post 14061176)
True. Still need to apply pressure whilst turning.

Besides, have you seen the looks on peoples' faces behind the counter when you ask for a JIS screwdriver?

Outside Japan I only found them in old (sixties/seventies) Toyota/Honda OEM toolkits and they're a bit on the large side for 3mm screws.

I bought mine from a Yamaha motorcycle shop. All the Japanese bikes use the JIS screws. They were even a decent price.

Carl Giordano 06-20-2015 03:04 PM

Sorry to high jack but figured a die hard mini racer may have an interest. Rare mini cooper tire sets...

http://www.rctech.net/forum/r-c-item...l#post14061658

niznai 06-20-2015 11:51 PM


Originally Posted by Granpa (Post 14061325)
I bought the screw drivers from Tamiya. Theirs work just fine.

What you keep forgetting is that you live within earshot of perhaps the largest Tamiya presence in the world outside Japan. In Oz, you'd be lucky to find some of their run of the mill kits on the shelf and special things like tools, TRF stuff, etc are not even on the importer list. My guess is this would be pretty much the situation replicated elsewhere in the world.


Originally Posted by patorz31 (Post 14061344)
I bought mine from a Yamaha motorcycle shop. All the Japanese bikes use the JIS screws. They were even a decent price.

Good idea. Now to find that Yamaha shop here.

sakadachi 06-21-2015 04:45 AM

Niznai - no need to have JIS dedicated drivers. I don't use any. Just get a nice phillips driver and file the tip. I don't strip any screw heads.

Granpa 06-21-2015 09:59 AM


Originally Posted by niznai (Post 14062065)
What you keep forgetting is that you live within earshot of perhaps the largest Tamiya presence in the world outside Japan. In Oz, you'd be lucky to find some of their run of the mill kits on the shelf and special things like tools, TRF stuff, etc are not even on the importer list. My guess is this would be pretty much the situation replicated elsewhere in the world.

Nah, I don't keep forgetting that since I spend most of my track time at the Tamiya facility. However, what you might not be aware of is that most of us do not buy directly from Tamiya cause they do ding us full retail. The street price of most Tamiya items is about 60% of retail. Very few of the LHS carry the Mini kits and finding Mini parts is difficult at the LHS level. Most of use online suppliers and the Hong Kong or Japan shops. From my contact with some of your Aussie counterparts, that's pretty much your situation.

Also, I believe some of our online suppliers will ship internationally, but the Asian shops are probably less expensive.

You make it sound as if you live in some backwards and isolated part of the world. I may be wrong, but my impression of Australia is that it is a a modern country with a vibrant economy. Surely, you don't have any more trouble finding and obtaining Tamiya items than our Canadian counterparts, but as always admit to the possibility that I'm mistaken.

patorz31 06-21-2015 10:31 AM

I bet his problem with Tamiya is teh same as ours in Canada. The distributors are horrible. Our national Tamiya distributor Borgfeldt has low stock levels and not really hobbyshop friendly. Their opening order is more then what horizion or hobbico want and all Borgfeldt carry is Tamiya.


All times are GMT -7. It is currently 04:40 PM.

Powered By: vBulletin v3.9.3.9 Patch Level 3
Copyright © 2026 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands. All rights reserved. Use of this site indicates your consent to the Terms of Use.