No, they will work just fine.

Thanks monkeyracing!

thanks for the info.. i knew i called on the rite fellow... ;)

eR1c - Honestly I don't think it will make that much of a difference. I would just wait on the arms you ordered. :D If swapping arms would make such difference I would've done it LONG time ago on my M05. :lol:

My M-Four uses the same M05 arms, only the joints to the chassis is different. That said, I don't think the M05's arms are 'inferior'.

Orlando, here is where I was going to go with the 06 pin and shock tower. I had thought that with the more outboard placing of both the upper and lower shock mounting points, there would be more shock movement. In other words, the shock shaft and piston would move more for the same amount of suspension movement over the more inboard shock position of the stock one. I had reasoned that since the shaft and piston would move more, it would require a softer shock oil. My 05 had always been a twitchy little beast, but if I could hold it together for a whole lap, it would clock some decent times. When I changed over, it became an easy to drive, consistent car. Even with this old guy on the wheel, I could run lap times with a variance of about 2 tenths. Unfortunately, the lap times were off about 2 or 3 tenths.

Here is what I think is happening. The outward mounting of the shock is causing the car to corner flatter. You know that at Tamiya, if the car is riding too flat thru the corners, you lose corner speed. I was going to disconnect the rear sway bar, and start trying different shock oils and pistons. Now the question becomes, if we go softer on the shock oils, will that let the car roll a bit more and give us more front end grip. Will the new no glue deal give you enough of an increase in front end strength to bring it up to the rear????? You know that the purpose of the glue was to reduce grip----I know you know that, but I threw that in for someone who might be reading this that hadn't worked with glue. the problem with my present set up is that the front end isn't strong enough to get the rear to work properly. My analysis of the problem is that this shock mounting position stabilizes the rear and at the same time loses you a little front end grip.

when I can get back out, this is going to be fun to sort out.

I spent a great deal of time looking through Tamiya's site (7digit part number section) looking for the RC pressure plate..which is the piece that broke on my M03's ball diff.

Only to find, DISCONTINUED.. :lol:

I saw someone selling it and was going to place the order this morning, only to find.. SOLD! :cry: lol

Search for pn 53219. Still available here and there.

Thanks, monkeyracing. I just need the cap with the splines for the outdrive.

I have other ball diffs I can use in my M03, but sucks that that's the only piece I need to make the one that broke work. :lol:

I ordered more RobinsonRacing pinions today. :D 15t, 16t for my M-Four... hope to cool down the motor a bit. It's geared too high anyway probably for the 6.6v LiFe batteries Tamiya sells in Japan; I want more punch out of the corners since it is 4WD.

Hope to win a few 40C nano-techs...

very intriguing. think i will play with this approach a bit :D

How's everybody doing? :D

I should be getting my Dynamite dual charger today along with more Lipo firebags.
Next week I got M-Fours parts coming in (a lot) and a few more Lipo's.

I am going to check out the links you guys recommended of the shorty's for my V2 a few pages back. I should be getting the aluminum battery holder for my V2 pretty soon.

I also need to start thinking about painting my 3 Rover Mini bodies. :D


Do you guys think the M-Four would become a rare 'cool' item down the road? I might buy a few more kits and just save them with the factory wrap for 10+yrs.

Just an FYI:
Simple Green products have been successfully and safely used on aircraft, automotive, industrial and consumer aluminum items for over 20 years. However, caution and common sense must be used: Aluminum is a soft metal that easily corrodes with unprotected exposure to water. The aqueous-base and alkalinity of Simple Green or Crystal Simple Green can accelerate the corrosion process. Therefore, contact times of All-Purpose Simple Green and Crystal Simple Green with unprotected or unpainted aluminum surfaces should be kept as brief as the job will allow - never for more than 10 minutes. Large cleaning jobs should be conducted in smaller-area stages to achieve lower contact time. Rinsing after cleaning should always be extremely thorough - paying special attention to flush out cracks and crevices to remove all Simple Green/Crystal Simple Green residues. Unfinished, uncoated or unpainted aluminum cleaned with Simple Green products should receive some sort of protectant after cleaning to prevent oxidation. ...

Fair enough. Thanks for the heads up. Stuff is usually in and out in a couple of minutes. (Sound familiar?) :lol:

I wouldn't worry too much about it. Anodized aluminum, as long as it's done well, forms a non-porous oxide layer. Should be enough protection for cleaning purposes every few years.

eR1c - Any update on your race? How was the V2 chassis? :D

It's actually porous, which is the reason it can be dyed all those pretty colors. Sealing to make it non-porous is an extra step (and that's probably what you mean by "done well"!). I suspect most of the parts we use are sealed, so in the end there's no harm done by a little soaking.