I'm surprised MD bothered, its not like 4WD Mini is a 'hot class'
Still, a new Mini is a new mini...

Are you talking about steering linkage? I've been using Associated 33mm titanium parts. I grind a tiny bit off the end so they're the sand length as stock Tamiya bits. Or, do you mean the actual plastic ball cups? Tamiya 53601. Eight in a pack and pretty cheap.

[QUOTE=JiuHaWong;13353301]I don't think Markus was threatening at all in his comments Granpa. You seems to take offense where there is none.

No, not a direct threat, but an implied one. And we weren't talking about physical violence. Sometimes the nuances of the English language can get a little tricky.

Anyhoo, if you'll read Markus's posy just above yours, you'll see that he was just giving me a hard time or being a smarty pants. I just thought he was being a jerk, but gave him the benefit of the doubt and answered his questions to the best of my ability. Don't i get any credit for that????? Geez, if that isn't being a good guy, someone will have to explain.

Also, my Granpa tag is well earned cause I'm a really old, old man. Frankly I'm just too damned old to put up with any crap.

Markus and I are fine. Appreciate your concern, but it was for Markus and I to resolve, which we have.

I was looking to get this class started at our local track and wonder what rules you all use?

I looked through a lot of pages but roughly 1500 pages makes the search tough.


Here is our local track in Chesapeake VA (Debbie RC World)
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dbk9T-xplQs

+ YouTube Video

Nice track

Give these a whirl. Substitute whatever motor/ESC combo you want and you're gold. http://karz.ca/karzcalgary/Classes_and_Rules.html

The advantage is affordability. Opening up to aftermarket parts can provide cheaper alternatives, though it must be said, most will eventually end up 95% Tamiya, except for the diff .

Here on our small to medium tracks the Reedy Mach2 is widely used because it seems to have good torque and short RPM. I find that big tracks tend to like the Thunder Power and RPM Killshots. I haven't had the chance to try the R1 yet.

Here in australia its been pretty much accepted nation wide that we use hobbywing 25 or 35Amp ESC and Hobbywing 13T/3000kv motor (or identical rebrand)
Fast enough to keep the experienced entertained, slow enough for beginners, and most importantly, cheap.

Nobody seems to complain

Man that is a nice track. Lucky god.

I use a Killshot RPM and am over all pretty happy. Haven't run a R1 but have run against most other options out there and few could keep up with me (not trying to be conceited). The Reedy Mach 2 was the closest to keeping up and actually kept me on my toes. But if I stayed on my game I could get away or at least stay up front. Mind you I still have yet to run at TCS :-( . My experiences are here at the local track.

Jason

What piqued my interest is it can be run as RWD or FWD or 4WD. That's great cuz my local track only allows FWD (i'd like a car where I can just change it back to RWD/4WD when not racing). And running my Cup Racer as FWD would be a nightmare!

I was just lamenting that I couldn't pick up a Front-Mid car w/RWD for a miata/Z4/billion other cars true to scale setup. So color me very interested.

Try an M01/2. That can be run in FWD or RWD configurations and it's mid motor. You might even find the uber-rare Tech Racing 4WD conversion if you're lucky.

Or an HPI RS4 Mini.

Or the more recent TA05 M-Four Mini.

I use M06 for RWD scale bodies, Like the Alfa GTA, Alpine 110. Most are afraid to touch it because it take a little more effort to drive it.. But they do drive nice and are very competitive to M05.

I recently picked up a Top Racing Sabre Mini AWD. It's quality is fantastic, you can adjust the wheelbase between 210 and 225. I'd pick that over the MD.

My head hurts :-(

Having read nearly the entire motor tips and tuning thread i am really no more informed than i was before i started. I have emailed the guy who sells red dot motors in the blind hope he will sell me a couple of motors and they are legal here in the uk.

The next thing i will do is buy a new torque tuned motor for my car as thats the one down on power.

Then it will be a case of making it my routine to clean the commutator after every practise session and at race events after every heat. This will be done with a cotton bud stick (I presume thats what you guys use) and a bit of brasso. This will be rinsed using electric contact spray and the bushes oiled using a watchmakers oiler and watchamkers oil (I already have some).

Having read all the "do the water break in thing" "dont do the water break in thing" i have decided that the motor will break itself in gradually. I will not be putting it near water.

Finally i will be installing the alu motor mount and heatsinks along with a fan if our club allows.

Not wanting anyone to say if this is the best method but i would appreciate someone telling me if i am gonna make things worse.

The MD car looks quite unbalanced with the motor positioning.

Told you.


Two things.

1. Not running in the motor can not be a benefit. Don't run it in water (I never did), but run it in or it will run itself in under full stress and burn your comm in no time flat with all the arcing a pair of unseated/poorly seated brushes can kick up.

Put it this way. Apart from say half an hour there's nothing to lose if you run in your motor, there's nothing to gain if you don't (my comments above notwithstanding).

2. Using brasso/cotton buds. This is just wrong. Brasso is by default an abrasive, so getting it in the motor can not be a good idea no matter what, not to mention once it gets in the bushings there's not much you can do to get it out. Cotton buds are not going to do much. They're good for cleaning tape heads, but not here.