OVA

iTrader: (86)

Drill a small hole.. never thought of it..that's slick

Boons

Thanks for the reply. I'm running on carpet. I've stuck 5000cst in it to start off with.

cementsurfer86

It's funny, I was just messing with that the other day, I had never noticed that before. Kind of another nice tuning aid.

k_bojar

iTrader: (30)

hey guys - has anyone tried the carbon rear shock tower for the M05? any opinions on its? I have the front one, was just curious about the rear

thanks!

Boons

Re the 3 racing diff, I take it that it can be used with dog bones until my UJ's arrive? And it looks like I still need to put the rubber o rings on the inner drive shaft cups? I've put the plastic cushions supplied on the inner drive shaft end, I take it they still need grease?

Sorry for all the questions!!

CraigMBA

iTrader: (22)

I did a search of this thread, with no luck. What is the part number for the sway bar?

monkeyracing

iTrader: (10)

M05 Stabilizer set 54239
M03 Stabilizer set 53343
M04 Stabilizer set 53342
M06 Stabilizer set 54295

For the sake of posterity, sway bar is a misnomer. They're properly called anti-sway bars, or in some cases, stabilizers.

ncpantherfan

iTrader: (13)

I need some set up advice with my M05.
I run on an asphalt track prepped with grape soda and sugar, traction is usually pretty good. Last night the car was bad.
One lap the car would traction roll, then would slide out the next.
My current set-up:
TCS legal
M05 Long wheel base
gear diff WAS almost locked, I have gone back to a diff packed with anti wear grease. Tight but not locked
Type A slicks with firm inserts front and rear
toe out set by .5mm spacer about 3 deg out
Ride height approx. 5mm front, 5.5-6mm rear
Tamiya alu shocks built to instructions
3 hole pistons front and rear
40 front 30 rear shock fluid
yellow springs front, red rear

Would like to eliminate the traction roll, gain a little more rear traction but not reduce on power turn in too much.

Granpa

There are a # of things you could try. If you're trying to keep your Mini TCS legal, switch to the #1016 premounts. They are S-Grips, hard Tamiya sponge inserts mounted on Suzuki Swift rims. These require you to cyano the sidewalls of the front tires and the rears also depending on your set up. I know this sounds counterintuitive, but if you are using the Tamiya Mini springs, switch to the softer springs found in the #53333 spring set. Install a rear anti-sway bar. It's hard for me to recommend which springs to run f/r cause the M05 car that is run by the Mini Mafia are all the mid wheel base car. The most popular seems to be yellow fronts and blue rears which I'm currently using on my M05. Also switch to 40 wt Losi oil all around.

There are some things that are off on the adjustment side of the equation. Ride height should be level or slightly lower in the rear. The softer springs will allow you to run less toe out. You really shouldn't need to run more than 2 degrees of toe out. The ride heights you are using makes for a very aggressive turning car. That with the stiff springs will create a very inconsistent and difficult car to drive. You didn't spell out your rear camber, but that should be about 2 degrees negative.

One other thing you didn't mention was whether you had upgraded to the aluminum steering rack. The stock one works fine, but only if everything is PERFECTLY straight. Even the smallest "tweak" can make your car go totally crazy.

The last thing I have to offer is that you never pack a gear diff with anything. One of the worst things you can use is anti wear grease. There was a lot on gear diffs a page or two or three back. I think monkeyracing has some really good stuff on it along with others.

Boons

I've just ordered Tamiya 53597 UJ's. regarding my 3 Racing diff, do I need to grease the inner outdrives even with the plastic cushion supplied with the diff? I've also noticed a bit of sideways free play despite fitting the blue alloy o ring. Is that normal?

ncpantherfan

iTrader: (13)

Thanks Grandpa.
Yes I have the alu steering stuff, along with several other alu hop-ups and the carbon fiber front shock mount.
I have tried the s grips but I did not like them. The were inconsistent, car didn't drive as well as with the type A slicks.
I have tried yellow springs front and blues on the rear and the car would bounce in the corners, which is why I went softer.
When I drove with a clean diff I was getting lots of wheel spin when coming out of corners and other cars would pull away on the exit.

I will lower the rear ride height and try the s grips again next week. One change at a time. I am the race director, I can't make changes between rounds. I have to drive it the way I brought it. I can change tires, that is simple and quick.

Granpa

With the S-Grips you have to cyano the sidewalls of the fronts. Non glued S-Grips will lead to instant traction rolling. Yes the Type A is easier to work with, but is easily 1 - 2 sec/lap slower.

I'm assuming the bouncing you are referring to was the rear end. Please note that I'm not saying in every situation, and it may very well have been stiff springs, but you can usually cure a rear end bounce with a little more rear camber and/or lowering the rear ride height. The other problem was the light shock oil with the stiffer spring. That's why I suggested starting with 40 wt all around rather than the combo you were using.

The MWB and the LWB set up a little different so only made general suggestions and explanations. If your car was a MWB, I could have been more specific. Any way, hope I was able to help.

CraigMBA

iTrader: (22)

I can only speak for myself, but you posts are very detailed and helpful to anyone who's new to the class (I read a lot more than I post. This will be the fourth 1000+ page thread on this forum I've read every post). So, from me at least, thank you.

But I do have a question. I have seen you write (multiple times):

I was fortunate to pit back to back with Mark Brown at the TCS qualifier at TQ, and he was kind enough to speak with me about his car for about twenty minutes between rounds. Mark's car was the most dominant of any car in any class there, and he was running a gear diff packed with AW. He documents how he builds it on his webpage (which I'm certain you've seen), but I know 1) that's only for carpet and 2) he runs a ball diff outdoors.

So my question is - why do you say that?

ncpantherfan

iTrader: (13)

I will prep my s grips and have them ready for next Friday night.
What type of CA do you recommend? Tire glue or regular old super glue?
Glue the outside section of thread and the side wall, or just the tread?
I will change to 40 all round, drop to 5mm front and 5mm rear and go down to 4.5 if I see the bounce. I think I will keep the springs the way I have them now, I need to order the set you recommended and a sway bar set.

I have never been good with ball diffs, even my 417 has the front spool and rear gear diff. That is why I tried the very tight front diff. and use the stock gear diff.

Granpa

Mark is the "carpet meister" so don't want to dispute anything he's doing or saying. I don't like packing with AW grease cause it usually creates a mess you wouldn't believe. Getting the case sealed is the problem and knowing Mark,he's probably figured out a way to do that. Mark PM'd me a short time ago, that he was coming down to practice with the Mini Mafia at the Tamiya track in a week or two. I'll have to ask about that.

I'll qualify my contention. If you don't know how to seal the case, don't pack the diff with AW grease.

I'll bet you any amount of money, that Mark's dominating performance was due to a lot more than an AW packed gear diff. I've run with Mark before and he knows how to wheel a Mini. He's also one of the best set up guys around.