R/C Tech Forums - Tamiya mini cooper

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Quote:

Originally Posted by Granpa (Post 12400838)

Let's just call it political correctness...Let's be honest here and call it the drivers skill level.

Call it semantics. Everything depends on where the speaker is coming from and how the listener hears it. In essence however, you're right.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Granpa

I have a very good friend, whose cars are nearly impossible for me to drive. He is also one of the fastest, if not the fastest driver here locally. In his hands, his Minis are very quick. Now my contention is that this has nothing to do with "style" and everything to do with driver skill.

I hear that. We've got a few guys here that are SUPER quick, but their cars turn to crap if anyone else tries, even very good racers, to drive them. They turn back again when the owners take over. It's a combination of skill, putting in, the laps, the hours and the tuning to suit how they drive.

I've tried various cars owned by fast guys. Some are soft as baby poop, others feel like they've got razor blades for tires. Some were engineered to the n'th degree, others were loose, sloppy wrecks. I was bad with all of 'em.

Good thought Granpa.

Just like a plain-jane kit that we can't leave alone, and upgrade over time, our setups and cars undergo the same transformation as our skill levels progress.
I can't count the number of times my car setups have changed because my ever-changing skill level demands more steering, more response, etc. What I thought was "dialed" 5 years ago, wouldn't cut it now as my skill level has changed.

Obviously, tracks, time of year, class type, etc. all have an affect on how I go about setting up a car, the final "feel" remains the same. The difference when you're skill level goes up, is how you go about reaching that "end-result", and what that final "feel", actually feels like.

Hi all,

Re the superglue trick on the front tyre walls, I've heard of lots of different methods and no one has mentioned simply buying one of those pots with the brush under the cap. So I assume that won't work?

Ive never seen CA (cyanoacrylate) glue with a brush before. I've used a brush and it was ruined in a few seconds.

Loctite makes a super glue "bottle" with a brush. That's what I've used.

Tried to add a link but was not allowed to due to number of posts...

-e

Cheers guys.

Re the NIMH battery, I've a few now of differing sizes but they are all too small for the kit battery clamps in terms of length. What is the procedure here to stop the pack sliding from side to side?

You can put a strip of foam in the battery clamps to cut down on the movement, I used some of the loop side of stick on velcro originally.

I eventually did away with the endcaps altogether and now I just tape them in place with battery tape.

Anyone now what the newly announced 58581 MONSTER SUPER SWIFT (M-05) is all about ?

Quote:

Originally Posted by marcos graveyar (Post 12407131)

Thank you.

I have stuck some foam in but just wondered if there was another method. Some of the guys at the club tape their batteries in but I thought that might be a pain if you plan on switching cells through the night?

What is that clamp that has just the one body pin holding it in place?

Quote:

Originally Posted by Boons (Post 12407173)

The best solutions always seem to be the simple ones. In this particular instance it's tape. Create a 2 layer piece of tape by laying one piece directly over the other, then use that to tape the battery in place. This stiffens the tape so it's much easier to handle and the double layer makes it so that you don't have to wind the tape around the battery twice.

Those pieces were originally in the M03. In my personal cars, the 05 holder is used on the right and the 03 holder is used on the left. I posted awhile back the whys and hows for this particular combination, but it was for the use of lipos, so is not applicable here.

Quote:

Originally Posted by marcos graveyar (Post 12407150)

Anyone now what the newly announced 58581 MONSTER SUPER SWIFT (M-05) is all about ?

Same M05, but with Monster Energy stickers?

Quote:

Originally Posted by Boons (Post 12387298)

Hi all
So first night using my M05 last night at my indoor carpet track. I went quite well but would now like to discuss my findings. My car is equipped as follows

TRF shocks with 3 hole pistons, built as per instruction, 600cst oil in the front, 500cst in the rear, blue springs on the front, yellow on the rear, adjustable upper arms on the rear with a 1mm spacer in between, a 2mm spacer in between the front steering arms, M grip tyres all around (club rules allow standard or m grip 60d tyres) silver can motor with 20t pinion (club rules). The ride height is about 5 or 6mm. I also have the front suspension hanger that allows the shocks to be stood up. I use the outer hole.

I have the 3 racing alloy steering set up with the arms in the front holes, shimmed to be level at ride height, and a high torque servo saver. I haven't done the super glue trick on the edge of the front tyres but here's what I found. The car was quite sensitive with lots of steering, it wasn't uncontrollable but wasn't as forgiving as the M03 I used a couple of times a few weeks ago. I could turn my car on full lock flat out and it didn't roll, but it does 'tripod' and lift its rear wheel, it has that trying to stop itself turn in whilst lifting the rear wheel if you know what I mean. Guys at the club suggested the glue trick but I wonder if the car needs dropping further or more?

Good fun though, even if my lap times were 1 sec down from the battered, friction shock equipped M03 I used the other week........

One last thing, some guys used the O rings behind the shock pivot balls??

Thanks all!

So I have just got back from racing. Since last week I have changed the shock oil to 500cst front, 450cst rear as last week I got my oils wrong! (I was copying the M05 set up on rc mini.net and didn't read it properly!) I have lowered the car to about 5mm at both ends, applied superglue to the front tyre side wall, increased the front toe out so there is about 1mm between the steering arms, and shimmed out the axle slop. The car still has loads of steering so I was taking it easy not to turn in to hard, no grip roll due to the superglue, but if I have to lift off in the corners the back steps out or will spin out. I managed to get through the evening with some reasonable lap times but it was hard work! What could I try to counter the lift off oversteer?

Cheers

I wonder if because I set my ride height at 5mm, and when you pick the car off the ground the spring is able to rattle around I should tighten the collars down again? I guess the spring should always have tension even if the wheels are off the ground?

Does anyone know off hand, if the Tamiya M05/M06 alum. rear uprights will fit a M03? It looks like the mount for the upper arm is offset, so I wasn't sure if it would work. Thanks!

Quote:

Originally Posted by Boons (Post 12408686)

What could I try to counter the lift off oversteer?

Too much weight is transferring forward when you lift off so you could do a couple of things.
Start off lengthening your rear shocks a little. Assuming you've built them up to approximately 56mm try going .5 to 1mm longer on the rear to give yourself more droop.

Failing that I sometimes add 10g of weight to the rear which I stick just behind the servo.