Granpa

Don't know if it's state of the art, but it does give you a very easy to drive M05. It actually is much better on a hi-grip asphalt track with 55mm tires than it is at the Tamiya track. It carries a lot more corner speed under those conditions. I know you just skimmed my post cause there were a couple of minor little "tweaks" in the set up to compensate for the characteristics of the new S-Grips and should really fit the 55mm tires. Made a much bigger difference than expected. There are a couple of other "things" that may make it better, but don't know cause I haven't tried them yet, but intend to----like higher rebound shocks.

And I posted this a couple of times 2 or 3 years ago, but without the tweaks.

No mention was made about the diff, cause I've posted several times how to build a TA03 diff. Whether a different type of diff, or a looser or tighter diff is better, don't know and ---------. Now there's a subject that's been discussed before, but might be a worthwhile repeating.

monkeyracing

iTrader: (10)

That's pretty much my M03 setup, save for the shock oil. I'm using 20wt. (cooler climate) Works like a charm.

Let's talk about diffs!

Laguna Bozo

Grandpa, Everything is better with hi-grip and 55mm tires!
We have to wait all week until you can hit the track and try those "rebound shocks"...Darn, I can't wait to hear about your results...
Before we chat on diffs again, please more thoughts on shock oil. Grandpa uses 40wt Losi. I normally use Associated which my LHS carries, most likely 30wt for this set-up. Jim lives where its colder and likes ?? 20wt. Plus I've found the Tamiya kit "yellowish" stuff is pretty descent too (in the summertime anyway), about Assoc. 40wt? Any thoughts?
I dreamed on emulsion shocks last night (How sick is that?), and don't think they could really improve our Minis. Off-road cars have used E-shocks forever, demand repeated, long, fast strokes. We need more controlled shock strokes, shorter and slower, which is exactly why they went to bladders, it seems to me...
Craig

monkeyracing

iTrader: (10)

Lets avoid diffs for a while.

I've heard Tamiya has some TC size emulsion shocks in the pipeline. Minis on the way?

Laguna Bozo

Interesting. I thought they were great on my RC-10.

I lift, miss the apex constantly.

Granpa

They weren't emulsion shocks on the RC-10. Wasn't that aeration from most of the oil leaking out???????

Since you asked, the two minor tweaks were the 4mm RH F/R instead of 5+ Front and 5- Rear. Also the 6mm hexes F/R. If you look at those adjustments, you'll see why the higher rebound setting may be worthwhile. Also a step up in the front spring rate. May also change the servo speed settings in the Tx and the end points.

Over the years Craig and I have conversed, chatted, discussed, dissected, argued, and disagreed about Mini set ups on many a Saturday. Two points that we do agree on is that you have to know where the weight is going and if you think of something, put it on the car and try it out. It might surprise you in what it does.

Just a last comment. For drivers of moderate ability, like me and the vast majority of you, not you Craig cause you're in the elite group, your Tx can be your best friend if you learn how to use it. Many racers have these hi-end radios and never use any, but the most basic function. This is fine if you're a really good driver. Some will give the excuse that they don't want to use it as a "crutch". That's like having a broken leg and saying I won't use a crutch cause I want to learn how to walk on a broken leg. To me it makes more sense to use the crutch, till no longer needed.

AngryRog

iTrader: (20)

Thanks for the 'crutch' help the other day. Very useful.

Granpa

Sorry Rog, but don't remember exactly what changes we made to your Tx but glad they helped. The changes we made were huge so you could probably back them off a bit. Working from memory here so, don't remember if I told you to back them off after you ran a bit. I just wanted you to see that you could affect the handling of the car just with a couple of beep, beep, beeps on the Tx.

AngryRog

iTrader: (20)

Granpa,
We had softened the initial servo speed to help the mid corner oversteer condition the car was having. It helped quite a bit, but would still snap loose on occasion.

I still think I need to play a bit with setup. It was fast, but not as well mannered as yours, and others at the track.

KA2AEV

iTrader: (1)

Guys just an update
We ran our Mini (05) at the TCS in Middle River this Sunday and it ran well
no handling issues until my driver crashed into a wall and broke a steering knuckle on the left side
Altho it was kind of slow compaired to the other Minis but he did place 4 or 5th ( I think) in the B Main which was real well considering this was the first time he was driving it competitivly. I think maybe its just an engine issue now
My One Question is
Does Tamiya make an Aluminum Steering knuckle for the 05 that will be TCS Legal?
I was looking around today and was only finding ones from 3raciing or is that
the one that Tamiya uses???
Any thoughts on improving this one flaw?
Mike

Dan

iTrader: (75)

Yes, Tamiya makes one. Just tried searching for it on eBay but can't seem to find it. Hmm... I have it sitting in a bag at home that was previously installed on my M05. Its going to go in an M06 very soon.

Dan

iTrader: (75)

Found it. Tamiya P/N# 54177

ic-racer

Shock length F & R? Or how many or what size spacers in the shocks F & R, and or shock type?

Granpa

56.5mm F and 57mm R. You could probably use 56.5mm both F/R. The car was loose initially so may have lengthened the rear shocks 0.5mm. But that was with different tires. With the new S-Grips and Pit Shimizu tires it's so planted, the same length shocks should be okay. The shocks are TRF shocks from one of my old TCs. The shock shafts are the 28mm Mini shafts or piston rods as Tamiya calls them.

Just some stray thoughts on shocks. I rarely rebuild shocks so can't remember the # or size of the spacers. I don't like to use the black O-rings, but use spacers from the #53539 5.5mm spacer set so that 0.5mm adjustments in shock length are possible. Also Tamiya has some blue competition oil seals that are really good for people who like to rebuild shocks. They just don't hold up well. The clear, stock ones are the best. If you're using TRF shocks from a TC, measure the shafts cause some had longer shafts. The shafts should be 28mm long. I'm not a big fan of the #54000 TRF Mini shocks and their new set for Minis are ridiculously expensive. I like the new TC shocks, but don't have the part #. They come with the 28mm shafts so are easy to set up for a Mini and the slightly larger oil volume seems like an advantage.

The above paragraph was just some random thoughts, in no particular order, and just my opinion.

KA2AEV

iTrader: (1)

Thanks Dan Appreciate it
Now if I can just get a fast silver can
but don't want to open up a can of worms on here
Too much of that going on about "Rebound"
It'll probably be trial and error for that!!!
Mike