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Tamiya mini cooper

Old 01-01-2013, 02:53 AM
  #18046  
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Originally Posted by monkeyracing
Happy new year! Lets hope this is the year Tamiya comes to their senses and re-releases the M03, while simultaneously discontinuing the 05 and 06!
Where's the like button!
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Old 01-01-2013, 09:38 AM
  #18047  
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Hi guys,

need the experts advise for the M03.
I recently got a beat down M03 from a racing fellow, which is an early M03 Mini Cooper with a silver chassis, as a present.
I plan to restore it with very few money, biggest invest will be a new bodyshell.
The chassis has some stress marks and bent damper stays,
so plan to order a new one:

Is there any difference in rigidity from your experience between the early silver one (50792) and the later black one (0005797)?

The black one seems to be a little more expensive.
Im just thinking to use the better one, but tend to do a classical looking chassis, as it already has the old silver Motor cooling plate and the stabiset.
Seems to also have a M03 balldiff already, which I tend to rebuilt, too...
Its my first M03, and the missing model in my M-collection.

Thanks for your help,
Matthias
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Old 01-01-2013, 11:37 AM
  #18048  
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Ok so I finally got the chattering to stop, talked to a guy at the LHS who races these and he says it sometimes happens with a FWD (this is my first so I had no idea). Bearings, shocks, and universal drive shafts are on the list of things to get. My question is where do you guys get your parts from? I checked out 3Racing's site but they had two sets of bearings for the M-05 and their verbiage wasn't clear on what was what.
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Old 01-01-2013, 01:38 PM
  #18049  
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Originally Posted by ruebiracer
Hi guys,

need the experts advise for the M03.
I recently got a beat down M03 from a racing fellow, which is an early M03 Mini Cooper with a silver chassis, as a present.
I plan to restore it with very few money, biggest invest will be a new bodyshell.
The chassis has some stress marks and bent damper stays,
so plan to order a new one:

Is there any difference in rigidity from your experience between the early silver one (50792) and the later black one (0005797)?

The black one seems to be a little more expensive.
Im just thinking to use the better one, but tend to do a classical looking chassis, as it already has the old silver Motor cooling plate and the stabiset.
Seems to also have a M03 balldiff already, which I tend to rebuilt, too...
Its my first M03, and the missing model in my M-collection.

Thanks for your help,
Matthias
There really isn't much difference. I just use whatever is on the bench and it's not unusual for one of my cars to have silver chassis half on one side and a black one on the other.

Just one little tip though. Reinforce the left chassis half by building up the floor behind the motor. Use some silicone and fill up the space between the floor and the screw lug. The chassis often splits here as it's the low point.
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Old 01-01-2013, 01:41 PM
  #18050  
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Matthias, the black chassis were primarily used in the ready to run cars and I believe they predate the silver/grey version. There is no real difference between them, in any case. The black one is often more expensive, because its not as common.

Best of luck with you project!

MoralThreat, try RCMart.com or one of the other HK shops (rcmodel, rcmushroom, stellamodels, vellrip...etc).

Jim
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Old 01-01-2013, 02:02 PM
  #18051  
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i filled all my cavities with RTV in the chassis halves. chassis seemed quieter.. or my ipod was louder
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Old 01-01-2013, 02:19 PM
  #18052  
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There really isn't much difference. I just use whatever is on the bench and it's not unusual for one of my cars to have silver chassis half on one side and a black one on the other.

Just one little tip though. Reinforce the left chassis half by building up the floor behind the motor. Use some silicone and fill up the space between the floor and the screw lug. The chassis often splits here as it's the low point.
Thanks Granpa,
Ill have a look on the weak point.

Matthias, the black chassis were primarily used in the ready to run cars and I believe they predate the silver/grey version. There is no real difference between them, in any case. The black one is often more expensive, because its not as common.

Best of luck with you project!
Thank you also Jim,
I will go for the silver version then, as some rear spare halfs were also included in the package.

Ill keep you updated on the project, Im quite curious about how this thing will run.

BR,
Matthias
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Old 01-01-2013, 06:11 PM
  #18053  
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6.5T, no timing or boost, short grippy carpet track...slipped pinion. Oops! (You should've seen it at full timing and boost!)



Video! Watch the far corner in front of the computer at 3:47 and you'll see my 03 do a nose wheelie when I slam on the brakes. Sorry, YouTube wouldn't provide the correct kink format for the forum.

http://youtu.be/YQr_AcfB_Tg

Last edited by monkeyracing; 01-01-2013 at 07:03 PM.
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Old 01-02-2013, 12:32 AM
  #18054  
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Originally Posted by MoralThreat
Ok so I finally got the chattering to stop, talked to a guy at the LHS who races these and he says it sometimes happens with a FWD (this is my first so I had no idea). Bearings, shocks, and universal drive shafts are on the list of things to get. My question is where do you guys get your parts from? I checked out 3Racing's site but they had two sets of bearings for the M-05 and their verbiage wasn't clear on what was what.

With the M05 bearing sets there are two versions, one version is for the standard M05 with the plastic uprights. The second version is for the M05 pro which has some alloy uprights. The alloy versions use a different bearing size.

There is a yeah racing set which has bearing oil included. This can be a good option.

For M chassis parts in Aus you can't go passed m-chassis.com.
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Old 01-02-2013, 08:14 AM
  #18055  
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Default Set Up help

I am in a quandary about my set up.

I have an M03 long wheel base. When I am at full throttle on the straight - transitioning into a right hand turn sweeper, the inside wheels want to lift and makes the car wobble. I already have the front tires glues on the first tread to fight traction rolling. Everywhere else the car seems to be good.

How do i keep the car planted without letting up too much on the throttle?

Set up :
Front -
60 wt
2 hole piston
6mm internal spacer
Yellow spring
Sway bar
S-grip, first tread glued - hard inserts
1-2 toe out
Ball diff - tight
Kimbrough servo saver - Large


Rear -
40wt
2 hole piston
4mm internal spacer
White spring
Sway bar
A tire - Hard inserts
3 toe in

Any thoughts would be appreciated, thanks.
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Old 01-02-2013, 10:33 AM
  #18056  
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Originally Posted by CSeils
I am in a quandary about my set up.

I have an M03 long wheel base. When I am at full throttle on the straight - transitioning into a right hand turn sweeper, the inside wheels want to lift and makes the car wobble. I already have the front tires glues on the first tread to fight traction rolling. Everywhere else the car seems to be good.

How do i keep the car planted without letting up too much on the throttle?

Set up :
Front -
60 wt
2 hole piston
6mm internal spacer
Yellow spring
Sway bar
S-grip, first tread glued - hard inserts
1-2 toe out
Ball diff - tight
Kimbrough servo saver - Large


Rear -
40wt
2 hole piston
4mm internal spacer
White spring
Sway bar
A tire - Hard inserts
3 toe in

Any thoughts would be appreciated, thanks.
You left out the single most important piece of information needed. What kind of track and track surface do you run on. Just guessing but, it looks as if you run on hi grip carpet.

Just a very general critique is all I can give you. It looks as if you have been fighting a traction rolling problem and have gone the wrong way. Your set up is way too stiff, which is what most people do to their set ups. Also a stiff car needs a lot of rear toe in and a ton of front toe out.

You might try this. Go much softer on the springs. Use 3 hole pistons and start with 40wt. oil. Shocks should be no shorter than 57mm measured fully extended and outside to outside. Lose the front roll bar and use the small roll bar in the rear. If you can, use a little less toe out and go to 1.5 or 2.0 rear uprights. Run your car at 5mm ride height or less and run the rear 1mm lower than the front. Also try a little less tight ball diff----tight diffs are only for the extremely talented. I only know of 2, maybe 3 guys who have the reflexes and skill to get the most from a very tight diff. Mere mortals should stay with a medium stiff diff.

You have a number of things working against each other in your present set up. You can get a uber stiff set up like yours to work, but it's usually slower in lap times. I realize that what I'm suggesting is 180 degrees off from the direction you're going, but you might try this if you're lost.
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Old 01-02-2013, 11:25 AM
  #18057  
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+1 for Granpa. I had exactly the same issues and kept going firmer. Didn't work.
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Old 01-02-2013, 11:35 AM
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Originally Posted by Granpa
You left out the single most important piece of information needed. What kind of track and track surface do you run on. Just guessing but, it looks as if you run on hi grip carpet.

Just a very general critique is all I can give you. It looks as if you have been fighting a traction rolling problem and have gone the wrong way. Your set up is way too stiff, which is what most people do to their set ups. Also a stiff car needs a lot of rear toe in and a ton of front toe out.

You might try this. Go much softer on the springs. Use 3 hole pistons and start with 40wt. oil. Shocks should be no shorter than 57mm measured fully extended and outside to outside. Lose the front roll bar and use the small roll bar in the rear. If you can, use a little less toe out and go to 1.5 or 2.0 rear uprights. Run your car at 5mm ride height or less and run the rear 1mm lower than the front. Also try a little less tight ball diff----tight diffs are only for the extremely talented. I only know of 2, maybe 3 guys who have the reflexes and skill to get the most from a very tight diff. Mere mortals should stay with a medium stiff diff.

You have a number of things working against each other in your present set up. You can get a uber stiff set up like yours to work, but it's usually slower in lap times. I realize that what I'm suggesting is 180 degrees off from the direction you're going, but you might try this if you're lost.
Thought I had everything. Yes, I race on carpet.

I'll try to soften up a little. Was that 40wt all around?

Thanks.
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Old 01-02-2013, 04:00 PM
  #18059  
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Today I tested a new motor that has quite a bit more power than my old ones and run into some pretty serious handling issues.

Motor 1 ran 13.10's and was super easy to drive.

Motor 2 ran 12.60's pretty easy, just had to watch for traction roll.

Motor 3 ran 12.20's at maybe 3/4 throttle and all over the place on 2 wheels nearly every corner.

I am using the TA03 ball diff, I did have it built with anti wear and rebuilt it using associated diff lube. This did help a lot, but it is still very unstable.

What do I need to do to tame the car?

M05 LWB JCW mini body

Set up :
Front -
500cst
3 hole piston
1 o-ring internal spacer
blue spring
small sway bar
Sweep 33's pink insert
1-2 toe out

Rear -
500cst
3 hole piston
1 o-ring internal spacer
yellow spring
large sway bar
Sweeps 25's pink insert
1 degree aluminum hubs
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Old 01-02-2013, 05:10 PM
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Originally Posted by CSeils
Thought I had everything. Yes, I race on carpet.

I'll try to soften up a little. Was that 40wt all around?

Thanks.
Go with the #53333 spring set and use the reds or yellows up front and the blues in back as a starting point. Start with the small rear roll bar. Yes it's 40 wt Losi or 400 wt Tamiya. Associated oils try 25 or 30 and that's all around. Lose the 2 hole pistons and go with the 3 holes.

Now what follows is just my opinion and is open to question, disagreement, derision, and open laughter. But all I ask, is your consideration of my points. Almost all of the springs made for the Mini are much too stiff for 90% of the situations you will encounter. Here is what happens to most racers on hi-grip tracks. They usually start with a fairly stiff set up and when they traction roll, they go stiffer and traction roll even faster. Next, they slather cyano all over the tires which cuts down on grip and lessens traction rolling, but they are just making the car slower around the corners. What most people don't realize is that you need some weight transfer to the outside tires to get corner speed. The more weight you can transfer w/out rolling, the more corner sped you will carry.

What happens on hi-grip surfaces is that the weight transfer is too fast and the car trips over itself on corner entry. You want to go softer so the car takes a little slower "set" and transitions a little smoother. Almost all the cars I've seen that traction roll do it on corner entry. Only a car that is carrying a ton of corner speed ever rolls mid corner or on corner exit. There are ways to control that also. On low grip surfaces, getting the weight onto the outside wheels is even more desirous. In fact, I like to see the inside rear wheel off the ground on some of the tighter corners.

I could spend more time on this, but that's the basis for most of my set ups.
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