synapse79

Today I decided to install a new delrin rear diff and 6mm front outdrives, team low friction belts. DAMN there are alot of parts. I like the way dual belt cars run, but man do they suck to work on. To get to the diffs nearly the whole car has to be taken apart, except a few stand off, the chassis was bare. There are a shitload of screws. Ive replaced 8 of the larger bulkhead screws with TI screws, but im going to order a few bags of 10mm screws and replace as many as possible. With the delrin diff and TI screws it should be pretty easy to get underweigt. Idealy i like the chassis to be alittle under to reposition weight as needed.

I have a complete steeldiff that is smooth and in pretty good shape if anybody is interested.

One other thing, LOSI XXXNT diff rings work. Exact same size as the atlas rings. Lucky for me, cuz i didnt get any rings with my last atlas order.

Claydoh

WOW ...Let me say that again, WOW. It worked like a charm. I had a front cvd pin pop out in the 2nd heat but otherwise the car was great. I had pretty much the stock setup with shocks moved in a bit and 60wt oil on blue foams. It needs some tuning but not much. And as a rookie who had never driven a one-way, I love it. I thought it was easier than a front diff. I got 3rd in the main. About the same place as before with my tc3 but only one lap down as opposed to 2 or 3. Thanks to all on this thread that made me want to get this fantastic car. Time to clean out the fuzzies and get that &$^@#! transponder mount goo'd down.

Anybody have a guess at which losi spring in the next step stiffer than the Atlas blue kit springs?

synapse79

Im still amazed how my screws there in a car like the atlas Vs. a molded tub style chassis like the XXXS, its crazy...

anyways, wanted to show you guys this
"atlas" conversion for an HPI..
link

synapse79

wow did i have a frustrating race day. One side of the diff was spinning on the diff ring, so it wouldnt accelerated straight. So, I tore the back end apart to stick the steel diff back in, what a pain in the neck that was. Then when i was fighting for the lead i hit a pipe just right and popped a pin out of a cvd...

What is the secret to keep the diff rings from slipping on the delrin diff halves? I tried running it really tight, but it still slipped really easy. There might of been a little grease on the back of the diff ring, does it need to be perfectly dry? I wish they would have used a "D" ring.

thanks
jason

seaball

iTrader: (9)

synapse - ca them. i do this with all rings that aren't pinned or d-style. it's a pain, but some carb cleaner will dissolve it back off. it doesn't take much. maybe four small drops. later.

synapse79

that was kinda the conclusion i was having...

Whats the best way to do it? 4 small drops on the diff half then seat the ring? Then put the diff together to make sure the rings seat flat...

Im not taking the steel diff back out til i have a few bags of 10mm TI screws...

I love the car, but man is it a pain to get the diffs out, especially the rear. I think theres 8 screws on the bottom of the rear bulkheads, then two screws on the top plate, then two screws holding the two bulkhead halves together, then 4 more holding the shocktower on... and i think thats all of them. Then the spur adapter has to come off. Its alot to do during a race. It reminds me of the old days when i first got an RS4. I think this is going to be my last dual belt chassis.

j0n0

synapse, the sad thing is sthe worst i did in that run was roll the car once :

seaball

iTrader: (9)

i let the rings dry before assembly, but i could see why you'd want to assemble them in a hurry. trouble is that even the slow cure ca dries before you can get it together. as long as there is no residual glue, you can just use a little pressure. i rotate the ring as soon as it makes contact to even out the glue. the just hold for 10 secs and that's it.

synapse79

thanks for the help

JohnA

Anyone got a set of delrin outdrives they would sell?

Claydoh

I switched to Trinity Reflex Purple springs F&R. Good fit but still a little soft. Ran like a champ though. The guys I pit with are getting mad. The second race with it and I am on the same lap with the good guys. I love it.

synapse79

performance aside, there are a few features i really like.

first, the bevelled motor plate to use O-rings to hold the motor screws in place.
2nd, the set screws in the cvd rebuild kit are already ground smooth, i was amazed...

i got the delrin diff back in with the plates glued to the diff halves... im getting better at taking the rear end apart, i found the suspension assembly can come off as one piece, i was taking a shock top off or popping a tie rod before. with the delrin diff i have to run 1/4oz. of lead to make weight.

the top shaft design is really nice also, i like it better than what the 414 to had

FreqETag

iTrader: (1)

Great to find this forum!! I went back to the beginning and read it all the way through! Whew....

Anyway, I just got a type T (again) I got so frustrated I sold my first one, but I picked up another this week for $75!! so I want to figure this car out!

The car is setup as stock, sway bars f/r. Arm mounts forward in front, back in rear.

First question: One more time, wheel wobble, whats the best fix?

Second: I run on Ozite, stock, rubber, small tight track with one long straight thru a sweeper, whats this deal with reversing the front suspension mount?

Third: Any other tricks would be helpful.

Thx a ton in advance people!!!!

Want to win the battle here, I just know this car can give all the XXXS's and TC3's a run for their money....

FreqETag

iTrader: (1)

I collected a bunch of Setups, and misc for the Type T which can be found here <---click

Just open the folder when you get there.

synapse79

the part of the axle the bearings ride on has one of tightest tolerences i have seen. So it should be pretty good stock. If not check ur bearings for free play, or look for some 6mm shims to put behind the bearings