Around The Table With Paul Lemieux(RC-America/Thunderpower)
11-17-2009, 08:47 AM
#1336
Oh sorry bowser, did i get back to you? Ive been a flake lately. or just call me.
Thanks EA!.
Hi. Thanks, Chase is doing really good. he loves Rc and cars in general, he is three now.
This is the easy way out but i beleive that it is all about practice and specifically as often as possible. I really beleive that if you raced once a week for a year or raced 52 days in a row you would be a better driver at the end of 52 days. at the end of 52 weeks you would be a better set up guy. the only other piece of advice that i have is to practice with a car that is too fast for you and train yourself to go slower and under control with a fast car, this way you are being forced to fluxuate your trigger and wheel much more to stay on line. this might teach you to beable to adjust your line. when i drive i am normally close to the line but that is only because as i am about to go off line i am able to correct my mistake before it couses me to be off line. thats what i think, Thanks.
Dont worry, Thanks for the info.
yea man, You too. see ya in a bit!!
Hey Tim,
Last year with a DUO I ran middle hole timing and rolled out around a 48-50mm in 4 cell. That was before the SPX speedo's and timing advance. I have not ran 10.5 this year with the newer speedo's or 1S.
Just a guess but with 1S and the timing advance now I would start around that same rollout with profile7 on the SPX.
Thanks
EA
Last year with a DUO I ran middle hole timing and rolled out around a 48-50mm in 4 cell. That was before the SPX speedo's and timing advance. I have not ran 10.5 this year with the newer speedo's or 1S.
Just a guess but with 1S and the timing advance now I would start around that same rollout with profile7 on the SPX.
Thanks
EA
Hey Paul,
Do you have any suggestions or techniques to build driving consistency? I am at the stage of being able to drive without crashing but I am still developing the best lines to get around the track. My car feels drivable in that it doesn't have too much steering but enough to get around fairly well.
If you have time, here is the result from my best round last night. I am car number 5.
http://track.nexusracing.com/dirLIST...nd_3/h4r3.html
And the track..
http://track.nexusracing.com/pictures.html
P.S. - How is your son? It's been awhile since his birth - he must be getting big!
Do you have any suggestions or techniques to build driving consistency? I am at the stage of being able to drive without crashing but I am still developing the best lines to get around the track. My car feels drivable in that it doesn't have too much steering but enough to get around fairly well.
If you have time, here is the result from my best round last night. I am car number 5.
http://track.nexusracing.com/dirLIST...nd_3/h4r3.html
And the track..
http://track.nexusracing.com/pictures.html
P.S. - How is your son? It's been awhile since his birth - he must be getting big!
This is the easy way out but i beleive that it is all about practice and specifically as often as possible. I really beleive that if you raced once a week for a year or raced 52 days in a row you would be a better driver at the end of 52 days. at the end of 52 weeks you would be a better set up guy. the only other piece of advice that i have is to practice with a car that is too fast for you and train yourself to go slower and under control with a fast car, this way you are being forced to fluxuate your trigger and wheel much more to stay on line. this might teach you to beable to adjust your line. when i drive i am normally close to the line but that is only because as i am about to go off line i am able to correct my mistake before it couses me to be off line. thats what i think, Thanks.
OK ran the 1/12 today. Started with 35/78 gearing 45mm tires stock can timing 22.5 degrees in the esc start up turned all the way up. Car was soso top speed motor was stone cold. Jumped up to a 38T pinion and still cold motor. Put a 40T on and it thermaled the esc after about 3 minutes. I used the 16ga TQ wires from esc to motor, and I pretty sure thats my problem. Not getting the juice to the motor. Car had a ton of punch if I touched the wall under acceleration it would wheelie like my 1/8 nitro car.
Paul sorry not trying to jack your thread.
Are you coming to the Nats at Mimi's?? I'm planning for me and my son to go, He's running the 007 in 17.5 rubber tire and I'll run 1/12 something. Hopefully get a chance to meet you face to face.
Tim
Paul sorry not trying to jack your thread.
Are you coming to the Nats at Mimi's?? I'm planning for me and my son to go, He's running the 007 in 17.5 rubber tire and I'll run 1/12 something. Hopefully get a chance to meet you face to face.
Tim
yea man, You too. see ya in a bit!!
11-17-2009, 09:14 AM
#1337
OK ran the 1/12 today. Started with 35/78 gearing 45mm tires stock can timing 22.5 degrees in the esc start up turned all the way up. Car was soso top speed motor was stone cold. Jumped up to a 38T pinion and still cold motor. Put a 40T on and it thermaled the esc after about 3 minutes. I used the 16ga TQ wires from esc to motor, and I pretty sure thats my problem. Not getting the juice to the motor. Car had a ton of punch if I touched the wall under acceleration it would wheelie like my 1/8 nitro car.
Paul sorry not trying to jack your thread.
Are you coming to the Nats at Mimi's?? I'm planning for me and my son to go, He's running the 007 in 17.5 rubber tire and I'll run 1/12 something. Hopefully get a chance to meet you face to face.
Tim
Paul sorry not trying to jack your thread.
Are you coming to the Nats at Mimi's?? I'm planning for me and my son to go, He's running the 007 in 17.5 rubber tire and I'll run 1/12 something. Hopefully get a chance to meet you face to face.
Tim
EA
11-17-2009, 09:26 AM
#1338
Hi. Thanks, Chase is doing really good. he loves Rc and cars in general, he is three now.
This is the easy way out but i beleive that it is all about practice and specifically as often as possible. I really beleive that if you raced once a week for a year or raced 52 days in a row you would be a better driver at the end of 52 days. at the end of 52 weeks you would be a better set up guy. the only other piece of advice that i have is to practice with a car that is too fast for you and train yourself to go slower and under control with a fast car, this way you are being forced to fluxuate your trigger and wheel much more to stay on line. this might teach you to beable to adjust your line. when i drive i am normally close to the line but that is only because as i am about to go off line i am able to correct my mistake before it couses me to be off line. thats what i think, Thanks.
This is the easy way out but i beleive that it is all about practice and specifically as often as possible. I really beleive that if you raced once a week for a year or raced 52 days in a row you would be a better driver at the end of 52 days. at the end of 52 weeks you would be a better set up guy. the only other piece of advice that i have is to practice with a car that is too fast for you and train yourself to go slower and under control with a fast car, this way you are being forced to fluxuate your trigger and wheel much more to stay on line. this might teach you to beable to adjust your line. when i drive i am normally close to the line but that is only because as i am about to go off line i am able to correct my mistake before it couses me to be off line. thats what i think, Thanks.
Thanks for the advice - you've given me some encouragement to keep going hard.
11-17-2009, 08:37 PM
#1341
I think Mod rubber is really cool now and by far the most cost effective class, no need for special speedo, a 5, 6 or 7turn geared moderately will last Forever. as your battery gets old and your magnet weak, who cares it was way too fast to begin with. LOL
The pre production samples that i got were really good. so i have my fingers crossed that it was duplicated properly.
Thanks
11-17-2009, 11:24 PM
#1342
Damper grease
Hey Paul,
I race my XII on asphalt and its pretty dusty. I find that if I dont replace the grease in my damper disc the car is like eratic on my next run...
I use the standard xray diff grease and some shock oil 350 or 450cst.
After my 8minutes run its like nothing left in the damper disk...
How often do you grease yours.? And is it and alternative for the diff grease.
How much do you put in?
I tried different grease but cant get one as thin and soft as the Xray diff grease, with thicker grease my rear pod doesnt react the same.
Any help will be much appreciated.
Thanks
I race my XII on asphalt and its pretty dusty. I find that if I dont replace the grease in my damper disc the car is like eratic on my next run...
I use the standard xray diff grease and some shock oil 350 or 450cst.
After my 8minutes run its like nothing left in the damper disk...
How often do you grease yours.? And is it and alternative for the diff grease.
How much do you put in?
I tried different grease but cant get one as thin and soft as the Xray diff grease, with thicker grease my rear pod doesnt react the same.
Any help will be much appreciated.
Thanks
11-18-2009, 11:31 AM
#1343
Hey Paul,
I race my XII on asphalt and its pretty dusty. I find that if I dont replace the grease in my damper disc the car is like eratic on my next run...
I use the standard xray diff grease and some shock oil 350 or 450cst.
After my 8minutes run its like nothing left in the damper disk...
How often do you grease yours.? And is it and alternative for the diff grease.
How much do you put in?
I tried different grease but cant get one as thin and soft as the Xray diff grease, with thicker grease my rear pod doesnt react the same.
Any help will be much appreciated.
Thanks
I race my XII on asphalt and its pretty dusty. I find that if I dont replace the grease in my damper disc the car is like eratic on my next run...
I use the standard xray diff grease and some shock oil 350 or 450cst.
After my 8minutes run its like nothing left in the damper disk...
How often do you grease yours.? And is it and alternative for the diff grease.
How much do you put in?
I tried different grease but cant get one as thin and soft as the Xray diff grease, with thicker grease my rear pod doesnt react the same.
Any help will be much appreciated.
Thanks
Hi, i always did replace my lube after every run. like you said thicker grease would stay on their better but that is not the best for asphalt atall. Honestly i dont have any suggestions as to what to do, I think i used 700cst on mine when i ran the car on asphalt but that wont help. My ONLY idea (MOST LIKELY NOT A GOOD ONE ) would be to place teflon tape on both sides of the graphite and the plastic. I dont think that this will help keep lube but maybe you could stretch the springs and run it dry?. But i would lube it every run. Thanks
11-20-2009, 06:45 AM
#1346
Hi, I have limited experience for i have never run a big event in WGT, I have built and driven one though. I live in WI, You are up here?
11-20-2009, 06:50 AM
#1347
pl - thank you for letting me hold your tea at the premiere. i hope you don't mind that i had my picture taken with it.
11-20-2009, 08:28 AM
#1350
))its pretty easy to build but i would still follow the instructions.