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Old 03-05-2008, 06:39 PM   #91
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im a bit apprehensive about the screwed on brushes, soldering em on should be better.
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Old 03-05-2008, 06:46 PM   #92
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Its great to see brushed motors still have life especially considering the wave of brushless motors now avaliable...
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Old 03-05-2008, 08:01 PM   #93
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Its great to see brushed motors still have life especially considering the wave of brushless motors now avaliable...
I still don't totally trust the reliability of brushless motors. I've seen more than a few speed controls go bad, motors dud out, even saw one guy with a 17.5 in a Legends car twist the end of the rotor where the pinion was mounted clean off. I like to keep things simple; brushed motors are straightforward, simple, mechanical things. Something goes wrong, you can see what it is and repair it. A brushless motor either works or it doesn't, and if it doesn't, it means you're sending it in.

Plus, I take a lot of pride in making my own horsepower.
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Old 03-05-2008, 11:57 PM   #94
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Originally Posted by OTE_TheMissile View Post
I still don't totally trust the reliability of brushless motors. I've seen more than a few speed controls go bad, motors dud out, even saw one guy with a 17.5 in a Legends car twist the end of the rotor where the pinion was mounted clean off. I like to keep things simple; brushed motors are straightforward, simple, mechanical things. Something goes wrong, you can see what it is and repair it. A brushless motor either works or it doesn't, and if it doesn't, it means you're sending it in.

Plus, I take a lot of pride in making my own horsepower.
So.... that means no ESC for you... going back to the old servo operated mechanical speed control
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Old 03-06-2008, 06:05 AM   #95
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Yeah, and no battery chargers either, just an old car alternator with a crank attached to it

Nah, I don't even get fancy with ESCs. I've been running Futaba MC230CR and MC330CR's for the longest time, they're dirt cheap and simple. And for the curious, my chargers are DuraTrax IntelliPeak AC/DC Pulse chargers, about $60 a pop. My batteries are done when they get warm.
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Old 03-14-2008, 01:08 AM   #96
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where would somebody buy replacement brushes for this thing?
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Old 03-14-2008, 06:04 AM   #97
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Got confirmation yesterday, my new motors are on their way!
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Old 03-14-2008, 07:50 AM   #98
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I cant understand why reedy are still making brushed motors.
surely brushless is the way forward??
Its like flogging a dead horse in my opinion that is.
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Old 03-14-2008, 09:01 AM   #99
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I cant understand why reedy are still making brushed motors.
surely brushless is the way forward??
Its like flogging a dead horse in my opinion that is.
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I still don't totally trust the reliability of brushless motors. I've seen more than a few speed controls go bad, motors dud out, even saw one guy with a 17.5 in a Legends car twist the end of the rotor where the pinion was mounted clean off. I like to keep things simple; brushed motors are straightforward, simple, mechanical things. Something goes wrong, you can see what it is and repair it. A brushless motor either works or it doesn't, and if it doesn't, it means you're sending it in.

Plus, I take a lot of pride in making my own horsepower.
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Old 03-14-2008, 11:34 AM   #100
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In addition, someone on a local R/C forum was asking about the equivalency of stock brushed/brushless motors. My response:

Quote:
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See that's the problem with brushless motors, they all look identical & there's no real way to tech them. It doesn't matter in wide-open classes, but when you think about it it's really impossible to trust them in any class with a motor rule. Simply dumbing them down isn't enough; a BL motor manufacturer isn't going to strictly limit its product to the level of other systems, it's going to do it slightly better, otherwise there's no real incentive to buy the product. In fact, they can't because brushed motors are still evolving. Yesterday I got a confirmation for my order of the new Reedy Stockstar motors. If they turn out to be leaps and bounds ahead of the current stock motor market, now all the BL makers have to release ANOTHER "stock" equivalent motor and/or ESC to keep up, otherwise the market will shift back towards brushed motors. Even between two BL makers, say, Novak and LRP. If they both make a "stock" motor, and each knows the other is making a "stock" motor, what's keeping them both from making each motor a tiny bit better than the other's?

And on an individual level, someone correct me if I'm wrong but I think the only outside identifying traits of most BL motors is the center can ring, which seems easy enough to change (the one Batson just put in his buggy even spins around, like it's not even attached to anything). I would think you could take the center ring off of a 13.5 motor and replace it with one from a 17.5, and nobody's the wiser.

Brushed motors are just less complicated rulebook-wise. Armatures are tagged and the tags can be viewed from the cooling vents, the shafts on 27T stock armatures have a tapered point where they exit the endbell, stock motor endbells are keyed to their cans, and most of all, brushed motors are purely mechanical, and the only thing short of blatantly cheating that improves their performance is the skill of the person who builds and maintains it.

It's the same reason NASCAR still uses carbuerators (sp). How do you inspect an EFI computer? Hook a diagnostic to it? Race teams will start hiring computer geeks to make the EFI modules spit out phony numbers.

Any old-timer knows, you can't trust racecar drivers to always follow the rules if they think they can get away with it.
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Old 03-14-2008, 12:24 PM   #101
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OTE_TheMissile View Post
In addition, someone on a local R/C forum was asking about the equivalency of stock brushed/brushless motors. My response:
BL Motors can be teched with an inductance meter, ROAR is working on a chart that each spec motor will have to fall in, local tracks just need to get themselves a "real" multimeter.
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Old 03-14-2008, 12:25 PM   #102
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where would somebody buy replacement brushes for this thing?
would really like to know...also if there will be different compound brushes available too and stuff.
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Old 03-20-2008, 11:34 AM   #103
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Thumbs up

Got my 2 Stockstars and 1 Challenger in earlier this week!

Broke-in the Challenger and stuck it in my TC late model, to be honest I've never run a 19-turn motor before in anything, plus other than one or two laps in a buddy's carpet TC3 I've never driven a touring car before...but DANG, I think I'll be good on power! Maybe a little too good; on my second day of playing with the car in the street it cooked the rear ring & pinion gears

Before I start with the Stockstars, is there anywhere I can get at least an exploded view of the endbell on these things? I'm not 100% sure how to take it apart
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Old 03-20-2008, 12:05 PM   #104
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whats the best way to break them in?
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Old 03-20-2008, 02:26 PM   #105
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Well like I said I didn't take anything apart yet, so I just put the Challenger on my motor stand, plunked a couple drops of my "liquid talent" comm drops inside, and let it run for about ten minutes while hooked to a 3.3v source from a jerry-rigged PC power supply.

That's why I bought 2 Stockstars, I'm going to try one pretty much straight out of the box (break it in the same way I did the Challenger), then I'll take the other and go through it with as many of my old MVP tricks as the new endbell design allows. Then I'll run 'em both and we'll go from there.
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