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Old 06-20-2006, 09:54 PM
  #14476  
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Originally Posted by AngryAsian
1. - Does it matter whether the readings come up as teh same number front and rear? As long as you have a measurement right?
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Originally Posted by AngryAsian
2. - I'm not sure i understand. What does droop have to do with tweak? Should you not set your droop the same left/right irrespective of camber and ride height?

I always assumed you set the droop, then set about working on tweak with rideheights later.. (Didn't even think of camber - that comes some where towards teh end of my settings before i go over it again..)

Or do you use droop as a tool to get rid of a tweak in a dynamic sense? That would be beyond my understanding..
Try measuring droop from the axle before and after you set your camber and you'll see what I'm talking about. It's like being a step more accurate with your measurements.
Originally Posted by AngryAsian
3. - You threw it out! Damn.. im forever losing them. Should have sent it to me!!
oops!
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Old 06-25-2006, 10:09 PM
  #14477  
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Hi there guys, Just wanted to thank you again for your suggestions the otherday.

Turns out my car was in really bad need of a service, bent suspension shafts and binding CVDs on the front seem to have been causing the problem. Although when i initially checked the droop on the car it was way off the droop gauge so i took it back to kit settings. It had gone out to something like what would have been -2 or -4 EEEK!!!

BTW odoes anyone have any good suggestions for gluing up the ring which goes on the inside of the bevel gear when you use it on a ball diff. I think if you dont glue it perfectly level the bevel gear wobbles a little when it spins so the drivetrain doesnt seem so smooth, its probably just a little thing, but i find it annoying.
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Old 06-26-2006, 02:24 PM
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Hi guys

New to this thread so just looking for a little advice, been thinking about buying a pro 4 to go with my mi2EC for outside running and been wondering if the pro 4 is still competative against the current trend for belt drive cars?
Can anyone give me any advice on what spares may be needed orany vital upgrades? I intend to run 27T and 19t mut may put a mod in on occasion.
Is it possible to put 48dp gears on it? I don't have any 64 pinions!

Thanks in advance

Paul
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Old 06-26-2006, 02:31 PM
  #14479  
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yes...still very competative thou not as fast through the turns like my cyclone...but it still can keep up with the best of them. Highly recommend the Hara edition for outdoor racing...pretty much everything you need in the box plus all the parts are updated. not much upgrades are needed...maybe just the p-dub front bumper to protect the front end and some tuning parts like springs and toe blocks. Spare you may want to pick up the usual... c-blocks, arms, hubs, steering knuckles...
and yes you can install 48p gears.
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Old 06-26-2006, 08:52 PM
  #14480  
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Default Pro 4

Are any factory guys running the Pro 4? I am looking for another touring car and the Pro 4 keeps catching my attention. I know that a lot of people are going to belt driven sedans but what is the difference? I like the looks of the Cyclone but I like the price of the Pro 4. Any info would be appreciated.

Thanks
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Old 06-26-2006, 11:13 PM
  #14481  
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Originally Posted by rc-zombies
yes...still very competative thou not as fast through the turns like my cyclone...but it still can keep up with the best of them. Highly recommend the Hara edition for outdoor racing...pretty much everything you need in the box plus all the parts are updated. not much upgrades are needed...maybe just the p-dub front bumper to protect the front end and some tuning parts like springs and toe blocks. Spare you may want to pick up the usual... c-blocks, arms, hubs, steering knuckles...
and yes you can install 48p gears.
Cheers rc-zombies, found a few second hand pro 4's for sale and am investigating further!
What size 48 pitch spurs fit? Anyone know?

Paul
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Old 06-27-2006, 03:45 AM
  #14482  
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48p, 75t will fit with out milling the chassie.

Snowy.
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Old 06-27-2006, 08:36 PM
  #14483  
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I use a 69T Spur which ends up with pinions of about

540 - 38-41T
Monster Stock 23-25T
17T LRP (HPI Challenge Motor) 28-31T
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Old 06-27-2006, 08:43 PM
  #14484  
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Also for spares add in bevel gear sets. Pro 4s are known to ocassionally loose teeth on their front bevel gears when using a oneway. The One-Way brace which comes with the v1.1 and later kits is meant to help with the problem. It is also suggested that you shim the gears properly and that you soak the gears in hot water.

I boil a pot of water pour it in a mug and drop the gears in and leave them till the water goes warm/cold.

There is also an aluminium bevel gear which you can get although i havent tried it yet.
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Old 06-29-2006, 02:33 PM
  #14485  
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http://cgi.ebay.com.au/HPI-PRO4-DX2-...QQcmdZViewItem

Thought u guys might be interested
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Old 06-29-2006, 02:46 PM
  #14486  
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Originally Posted by *sil80*
nice...and it includes a giant car stand...
look how small those tires are..

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Old 07-05-2006, 08:45 PM
  #14487  
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Default CVD Options

Hey guys,

Have searched through the Pro 4 thread and of course some of the posts are very old.

Anyway I have a new Pro 4 and will be running GTB/5.5R and want to upgrade the CVDs.

In looking through the threads it looks like my options are:
TC4 HD dogbones
TC3 IRS "Big Dawgs"
Square RC - if i can find them
TiR - too expensive

Any others out there I should be looking at??

Thanks,
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Old 07-06-2006, 12:25 AM
  #14488  
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Default Robinson Racing

Purlple Pinions 64 pitch
5-40 set screw with hex head
what is the size of the hex you need for this set screw?
their web site doe not have this info da
also what nut driver size do you need for this car?

Last edited by LORD SHADO; 07-06-2006 at 12:42 AM.
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Old 07-07-2006, 02:05 PM
  #14489  
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1/16 is the answer
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Old 07-07-2006, 02:20 PM
  #14490  
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2mm hex
5.5mm nut driver
7.0mm nut driver for the wheel nuts.
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