dstyles

i've seen those too, but don't know who actually runs them.
does anyone use them?

MikeR

iTrader: (15)

What do they do? Just provide a little lighter bearing? My lighter 415MS bearings are also more fragile

iblumberg

The adapters allow you to run a 5x8x2.5 mm bearing instead of the larger 5x10x4 mm bearing. The adapters are sleeves that take up the extra space. HPI says the smaller bearings are lighter and offer less rolling resistance.

I'll probably try them out this weekend. However, I'm not throwing away my original bearings just in case.

Ira

AngryAsian

iTrader: (4)

Does anyone know how to reduce centre shaft wobble?

I just put another new one in, don't want it to turn ugly again. Actually, i looked at the pins and they were even twisted out of alignment! Is this normal? LOL...

(I'm using the stock Alu one...)

rc-zombies

iTrader: (9)

the smaller bearing are very fragile...doesn't take much to break them..

stay with the original bearings..

iblumberg

Since I have already invested in the parts and since my front bearings were squeeking, I think I'll try the new smaller bearings. However, if as you say they are much more fragile, I'll be replacing them with a new set of full sized bearings shortly (unless my driving suddenly improves dramatically) :-(

Ira

iblumberg

My original driveshaft was also showing some wobble at higher speeds (with just a stock motor). It did not show any visible signs of wear however. Nonetheless, I have crashed a few times at reasonably high speeds, so this may have deformed the shaft a bit. I recently replaced it with an HPI graphite shaft (purchased in Japan since HPI won't sell them in the US). I have no idea how long it will last, but it is certainly running straight and true for now.

Ira

iblumberg

Does anyone know why HPI sells lots more bling and functional hop ups outside the US than in the US?

Take a look at the HPI website in Japan and you will see that HPI has graphite drive shafts, alu spring retainers for the shocks, alu shaft drive cups, alu ball ends, graphite top bumper plates, alu front and rear hubs, alu antenna holders, etc. Even in Eurpoe, most of the above parts are available.

Some of the above stuff is just bling, but some really does improve performance and/or reliability. Why would HPI not sell it in the US?

Any thoughts?

Ira

MikeR

iTrader: (15)

Ok, thanks for the answer.

Maybe the bling parts you mention are just new and haven't had time to hit the US shores. It's always been that way with Tamiya as well- usually a 2 month progression

AngryAsian

iTrader: (4)

graphite shaft eh...

Incidentally, can anyone tell me whether its because my drive cups are out of line, or does the shaft just naturally do this? I just swtiched to running mod recently and i killed a shaft promptly. Might be a sad coincidence but does this just happen?

The previous shaft did "sing" at part throttle and on the stand at least practically roared at you on full throttle. I think it has a nasty resonance to it. The new one is very much better but still deforms on the car stand(no load) at full throttle.

raptor 700

iTrader: (12)

I have pro4 and want to know what change can I do to make it cary more speed through the corner? I currenting run a spool, and the track is fairly techianly and slow. Another thing my inside tires jwrecks from left to right in a full throttle swepper? Thanks for the info.

Nicadrauspro4

The HPI graphite shaft can only handle motors with 12t limit and above. Once you go below the limit, your graphite shaft will break as it can't handle the very high RPM of modified motors. On the other hand, the HPI graphite shaft performs well with 19T and 23T, very smooothly. If you want a tougher graphite shaft, check the thread by ewippler who fabricates graphite shafts for all motors and car makes.

Nicadrauspro4

Try using a one-way diff on your car. Then check the difference. Though I have never tried using a spool, I'm using a one-way and my pro4 can make high speed turns in some corners and chicanes with no problems.

Geetoo

iTrader: (1)

Or maybe you can try this. If you run on smaller tracks with tight turns, the usual case is you must use a lower degree C-hub. Instead of 4deg, try 2deg. This way you have more off-power turn in on corners, this would help your car move faster all around the track.

raptor 700

iTrader: (12)

I already tried the one-way and didn't like it one bit. It would oversteer and understeer. It was to hard to drive.