kevin2

.

pro4racer

thanks john b i will try that on friday thanks for putting it alot simpler 4 me cheers

james

MI2

does any one have a pro 4 for sale

revnine

Sorry for the novice question, but I'm wondering if there are 48 pitch spurs that will fit the Pro 4. My LHS only has 48p pinions and I know the Losi XXX-S uses a 48p spur.

What would the advantages/disadvantages of changing to a 48p spur be? (other than local parts availability in my case)

Thanks for the help,

tony

X2

Any 48dp spur will fit fine. The only advantage to 48dp is that if you are racing outside with 64dp grit can easily build up in the teeth. Also 48dp will not strip so easy.

Tres

iTrader: (14)

Tony:

checkout: http://www.robinsonracing.com/tips.html


The RRP geat will work good.

Checkout the TC3 Ultra gears...

chr15tophe

Went racing the other Sunday had on Corrally SSB tyres, made by (Take off), rear of the car was loose as anything despite running a soft setup at rear and stiff at front, lowered the camber link and have long wheelbase at rear, steering turned down to reduce steering throw also ride height at rear is 6 as is front, droop 4 at front 3 at back. Would appear that my initial turn is so much its causing the rear to kick out, now when i put on CS 27 tyres the car was a dream to drive and took ftd and won the A, however this is no good as ive got to run with the SSB tyre ( quite a hard compound) how can i get the car to handle like when i put the cs 27 tyres on?? Running a oneway up front also as its quicker than running a diff.

???

Tres

iTrader: (14)

chr15tophe: did you adjust Front toe-in any?

revnine

Tres and X2,

Thanks for the info! Cool link too!


Tony

chr15tophe

the rear toe in is set at 3 and the front I generally run at 0, i have run 1 degree toe in b4 but didnt effect greatly how the rear was behaving

chr15tophe

possibly a castor change is in order maybe goto the 6 degree block

jonny69

Going to the 6 degree blocks will make your car turn in harder and more agressivley. You could try the 2 or 0 degree blocks. Or try adding some antisquat, I found the that this helped make the rear of the car to behave more predictably and still have 95% of the steering that it had before. Jonathan

robk

iTrader: (22)

Raise rear camber link, shorten wheelbase.

chr15tophe

shortening the wheelbase will only make the situation worse, as its ment for tight twisty tracks when you need more steering by transfering weight to the front. I have too much steering i think.

Going to a 6 degree castor block increases mid corner steering and takes away initial steering, doesnt it? I reckon i have a car that is turning to sharp on entry to a corner.

Hard to know what the car does sometimes when racing i just concentrate on each corner, after the race i tend to forget how the car went... More practice needed heheheh

jonny69

Quote from the Pro 4 manual. "Generally, more caster will give you more initial steering" and then "with less steering exiting the corner" I would try reducing the caster, and return the wheel base to its Kit setting. Then if you still need more grip lower the rear inner camber link, you may have to grind down the ball stud if you go too low as it may grind on the outdrive.Jonathan