Rich_p

As above suggestions please.
I run on a very small and tight indoor carpet track.

I would use the suggested gearing in the manual but whenever I do that regardless of what motor I run they always come off stupidly hot. I guess thats because the track is so small.

kewdawg

iTrader: (3)

I found, when you using foam tires which are generally run smaller than rubber tires, you would gear closer to the lower end of the range for each turn of motor (for example: 10t motor / 8.00 - 8.75 , you'd need to gear closer to 8.00 using foam tires).

kewdawg

iTrader: (3)

In fact, you should gear a 19t like your would a stocker - except gear up a couple of teeth on the pinion. Hope this helps.

Rich_p

Should add I will be on rubber tyres

rc-zombies

iTrader: (9)

me too... I make majority of my orders through RcModel..

brushless

I had some major glitching problems. My whole problem was I had a shorter antenna tube on my Pro 4 and there would be around 6 inches of antenna wire coming out the top of the antenna tube. I had been using an antenna cap and just folding the extra antenna wire down after putting the cap on. This was my whole problem. I just put a full length antenna tube on my car and the antenna wire only hung out about 1/2 inch. This solved all my glitching problems.

kewdawg

iTrader: (3)

Yeah, you should be gearing towards the higher end of the ratio (smaller pinion / more acceleration).

StewartFan20

iTrader: (4)

Did you have any slack at the bottom of the antenna tube, inside the car, by the receiver? If so, what did you do with it? What radio do you use?

I am also having glitching issues and I already use the long antenna tube mounted on the upper deck. But, I have a couple of inches anging out of the top.

Darkseid

iTrader: (9)

Caster blocks...

I made the switch from the stock setup to the 2degree caster blocks because I broke one of the original ones. To my surprise, I found that the car handle much, much better entering and exiting the turns with these blocks on!

I guess this was one occasion when breaking wasn't so bad!

brushless

I have my receiver mounted on the top graphite place and there is only about 1/2" of slack between the receiver and the antenna tube. It is not close to the graphite plate. I am using the Airtronics MX-3. Just don't use an antenna cap. Let the extra antenna wire just hang out. Put the receiver as close to the antenna as you can.

jonny69

That was the degree castor blocks that were standard on my car in the kit, I changed to 4 degree after the first run, more turn in I thought. I have just spent loads of money, but now I fancy the Hara twister and the Hara/orion 12*1 V2 motor, It will look cool!!! I'm gonna have to get a job. Jonathan

rc-zombies

iTrader: (9)

the std kit set-up is 4deg.. 2 & 6 degree caster blocks are included in the kit...

and yes..the Hara Twister looks great on the car...I've got one on mine...and one of the best I've used so far....

jonny69

What do you mean, did the car have more, or less steering also did it change direction quicker. Thanks. Jonathan

Darkseid

iTrader: (9)

I guess the best way to say it is that the car was more aggressive entering the turns while at the same time staying smooth while exiting.. It changed direction instantly while not losing the rear end in the process. It reminded me of the way my HPI R40 steers. Kinda like that camara commercial says..."just point and shoot"!

I was consistently able to place the car right where I needed it and get then inside line on passes even when the person I was passing didn't thing there was enough room. Then upon exit, I could pin the throttle down without worrying about drifting out and making contact with the car I just passed.

It never did that before with the stock blocks...not for me atleast on our local track.

DOMOisCOOL

Oh yeah. Congrats on winning the BMI chassis RC-Zombies.