Hpi Pro 4
Tech Rookie
pro4 is a great car ran 2 years on road old school years ago now i have 2 exotek chassis on one use for vta works great handles better than my tc5 or xxxs.
Italian RC seems to be trying to adapt the Rally Legend gear diff to Pro4... There is no news on their Facebook page since months...
Tech Champion
iTrader: (22)
It's been a while but I did run the tc4 diffs in my pro4, I was using the same diffs out of the ntc3 also..I'm trying to remember what we were doing to make them fit..but they did..I don't really care if you believe or not..but guess you never noticed the similarities between the tc3 & the pro4? You know you can use the cvd shafts from a tc4 also right..
http://www.ebay.de/itm/Hotbodies-HPI...8AAOSw~bFWG~wP
What are the advantages of running the TCX/TCXX arms? Is it different and more favorable geometry? Or same exact mounting points?
The HB arms are more symetrical. You can mount the rear arms without any modification, the geometry will be identical... But on the front, it will move the front wheel forward, as the arms does not have the same horizontal offset...
Thanks!
Crazy pro4 prototype on ebay....wait it's a tc3!!!
http://www.ebay.de/itm/Hotbodies-HPI...8AAOSw~bFWG~wP
http://www.ebay.de/itm/Hotbodies-HPI...8AAOSw~bFWG~wP
HPI produced a second version for the World with more adapted parts:
http://overrc.com/news/news2014/hpip...otypepro4.html
Still trying to make my ball diff work...
Has anybody follow the instructions published on Exotek website? I've tried the Yokomo SCREW but it is too short for the Nut...
Ive ordered quality parts to en sure I have the best ball diff possible but for the moment that's not really the case...
If MikeR read that, please help !
Has anybody follow the instructions published on Exotek website? I've tried the Yokomo SCREW but it is too short for the Nut...
The center hole can accept larger (stronger) 2.5mm diff screws that resist breaking unlike the stock 2mm diff screw.
To convert to 2.5mm diff screw use;
HB 67725 Pro Diff Screw Set (2.5mm thrust washers, balls, 2.5mm lock nut) but use the diff screw from Yokomo BM508 (Diff screw and diff spring). The Yokomo screw is shorter and the perfect length needed for the Pro4.
To convert to 2.5mm diff screw use;
HB 67725 Pro Diff Screw Set (2.5mm thrust washers, balls, 2.5mm lock nut) but use the diff screw from Yokomo BM508 (Diff screw and diff spring). The Yokomo screw is shorter and the perfect length needed for the Pro4.
If MikeR read that, please help !
Last edited by Airwave; 10-28-2015 at 04:12 PM.
Tech Elite
iTrader: (66)
This is the first version, the prototype was indeed using a lot of TC3 parts. It was THE car at this moment.
HPI produced a second version for the World with more adapted parts:
http://overrc.com/news/news2014/hpip...otypepro4.html
HPI produced a second version for the World with more adapted parts:
http://overrc.com/news/news2014/hpip...otypepro4.html
However, with refinement, this car could be a good design. If my pro 4 had aluminum bulkheads, I would have never got rid of it. I was scared of stripping out the carbon plastic ones and not being able to find replacements.
Tech Champion
iTrader: (15)
Still trying to make my ball diff work...
Has anybody follow the instructions published on Exotek website? I've tried the Yokomo SCREW but it is too short for the Nut...
Ive ordered quality parts to en sure I have the best ball diff possible but for the moment that's not really the case...
If MikeR read that, please help !
Has anybody follow the instructions published on Exotek website? I've tried the Yokomo SCREW but it is too short for the Nut...
Ive ordered quality parts to en sure I have the best ball diff possible but for the moment that's not really the case...
If MikeR read that, please help !
I have 3 diffs built this way, no problemo. Did you do the mandatory ball dif spring compression trick?
Yeah of course... The yokomo spring is a little bit shorter than the HB one, but still, I can't make the scdrew even touch the nut...
As you can see, when the thrust bearing and the spring are installed, this is very short...
And of course the Hb screw is way too long...
(You sure guys at Exotek won't develop a gear diff? )
As you can see, when the thrust bearing and the spring are installed, this is very short...
And of course the Hb screw is way too long...
(You sure guys at Exotek won't develop a gear diff? )
Tech Elite
iTrader: (84)
I don't think that is a prototype. HPI woild never have used Philips head screws, or aluminum body post. Not to mention those prototype bulkheads looks pretty refined to me, and anodized. The inner hinge pin mounts are plastic not of the type used by HPI.
However, with refinement, this car could be a good design. If my pro 4 had aluminum bulkheads, I would have never got rid of it. I was scared of stripping out the carbon plastic ones and not being able to find replacements.
However, with refinement, this car could be a good design. If my pro 4 had aluminum bulkheads, I would have never got rid of it. I was scared of stripping out the carbon plastic ones and not being able to find replacements.
Tech Champion
iTrader: (15)
Yeah of course... The yokomo spring is a little bit shorter than the HB one, but still, I can't make the scdrew even touch the nut...
As you can see, when the thrust bearing and the spring are installed, this is very short...
And of course the Hb screw is way too long...
(You sure guys at Exotek won't develop a gear diff? )
As you can see, when the thrust bearing and the spring are installed, this is very short...
And of course the Hb screw is way too long...
(You sure guys at Exotek won't develop a gear diff? )
Yours doesn't look like the correct parts;
Yokomo BM508
http://www.amainhobbies.com/rc-cars-...FYdbfgodSp4KXQ