SpeedMerchant Rev 5
11-10-2009, 01:48 PM
#541
You drove great all weekend, and your car was plenty fast.... It was great battling it out with you in the Main.
Who's "they"?
I was running more gear, but less timing and boost. Car seemed to carry the laptimes deeper into the run that way. I realized on the way home that I missed my gear by a tooth in the main, DOH! Changed rears and didn't remember to gear down.
Who's "they"?
I was running more gear, but less timing and boost. Car seemed to carry the laptimes deeper into the run that way. I realized on the way home that I missed my gear by a tooth in the main, DOH! Changed rears and didn't remember to gear down.
11-11-2009, 12:31 PM
#543
So far on my REV5 I've tried Protoform AMR 12, and Speed 12 bodies. I've mounted the Speed 12 neutral and slightly back. The latter seems to work best so far. What about Parma or CRC bodies. Any opinions or comparisons?
11-11-2009, 12:55 PM
#544
Parma bodies work great, too. It all depends on how you want the car to handle. Joel used the Speed 8 for his Cleveland run.
11-14-2009, 02:32 AM
#546
Tech Regular
My new ride
Probabley the only one in the Uk to be doing nationals.Testing this weekend.What has surprised me is the weight. It comes in at 768gms with a light weight shell and no PT fitted yet.
What weight are you guys running
What weight are you guys running
11-14-2009, 04:41 AM
#547
speedo and receivers add a lot of weight (along with excess wire). my futaba receiver is heavier than most but my Rev5L with a tekin rs, jr 3650, express motorsports duo, thunder power 40c, protoform speed 12 and jaco tires (41mm f, 43mm r) the car comes in at 949-951 grams. running a different radio package would save an additional 7-10 grams. you can also run some different screws but I haven't bothered to do that yet. I'm happy to be within 20 grams of the new roar weight std - 930g
edit - my post above should say 749-751 and 730 g... i guess i had worldgt on the brain
edit - my post above should say 749-751 and 730 g... i guess i had worldgt on the brain
Last edited by hanulec; 11-14-2009 at 11:06 PM.
11-14-2009, 06:45 AM
#548
Interesting numbers on the weight. I have a Rev5, with TP 5000 1s, Futaba Fasst receiver, Tekin RS, AMB transponder, Futaba 9602 servo but I have an associated reactive front end on the car. Body is Black Art Coupe and the weight with a little for balance comes in at 730gr, which is dead on the new ROAR weight. Got to remember to NOT run small tires.
11-14-2009, 08:02 AM
#549
Tech Regular
possible problem on rear pod
Some thing ive just noticed ,I have 4 motors.
1.2 X redline Screws just line up but a squeeze to fit in pod need to force it in)
2.1 X nosram (motor screws dont line up)
3.1.novak (motor screws dont line up)
Do i need to file out motor screw slots. Is this just my problem or have others experienced this.Is it worth contacting Bruce or is he aware of it.
The only motors I can get too fit is the Redline even they are a very tight fit
1.2 X redline Screws just line up but a squeeze to fit in pod need to force it in)
2.1 X nosram (motor screws dont line up)
3.1.novak (motor screws dont line up)
Do i need to file out motor screw slots. Is this just my problem or have others experienced this.Is it worth contacting Bruce or is he aware of it.
The only motors I can get too fit is the Redline even they are a very tight fit
11-14-2009, 09:37 AM
#550
Running the same electronics package as Hanulec mentioned above. Only difference being Body shell. I scrambled to remove weight when going from a booster to a receiver pack and finally had to actually add another 2 stickers finally to make 730g exactly.
As for your motors "not fitting".
As for your motors "not fitting".
Hi Brad,
Yea, believe it or not, that's by design. The lower 3mm cap head is pretty much flush with the Bottom Plate.
You should have gotten two 3mm cap heads, and two #4 washers with your kit. One of the #4 washers is shaped like the letter "D". That goes on the bottom, against the Bottom Plate.
If those didn't come in your kit, I will probably choke Bob until he is blue.
When adjusting the 64P mesh, we snug up both 3mm screws…..the bottom one a little more. So the mesh is actually a little tight. Then use your 2.5mm wrench end and slide it into the gap for the motor screw on the top left side of the motor. You can now gently and slowly use the wrench end to nudge the top 3mm motor screw to the right. Do a little....check your mesh....a little more...check...etc... until it's perfect. Then tighten down both screws, and your done. Perfect mesh, relatively painless. I've been adjusting 64p gear mesh like that for 15 years.....works every time.
Have a great weekend.-Bruce
Yea, believe it or not, that's by design. The lower 3mm cap head is pretty much flush with the Bottom Plate.
You should have gotten two 3mm cap heads, and two #4 washers with your kit. One of the #4 washers is shaped like the letter "D". That goes on the bottom, against the Bottom Plate.
If those didn't come in your kit, I will probably choke Bob until he is blue.
When adjusting the 64P mesh, we snug up both 3mm screws…..the bottom one a little more. So the mesh is actually a little tight. Then use your 2.5mm wrench end and slide it into the gap for the motor screw on the top left side of the motor. You can now gently and slowly use the wrench end to nudge the top 3mm motor screw to the right. Do a little....check your mesh....a little more...check...etc... until it's perfect. Then tighten down both screws, and your done. Perfect mesh, relatively painless. I've been adjusting 64p gear mesh like that for 15 years.....works every time.
Have a great weekend.-Bruce
11-14-2009, 11:14 PM
#551
. if your diet plan means running ugly spray bombs i don't think that will be enough (maybe i need to run parma bodies too...)funny enough, racing today (still saturday to me...) running 13.5t 1s w/ a BlackArt "spray bomb" body my car was coming in at 746g. i ran a speed 12 too .. but w/ a nice paint job my car came in at 749g.
we were running at Horsham today. Sal Amato took down TQ w/ this Rev5L, I was sitting 4th. Sal took home the main, and i threw away a potential 2nd place finish -- blowing out of 2nd place but posting the 2nd fastest hot lap. I'm still a bit off in gearing and setup for 13.5t. After gearing down for the main I shaved .3s of my prior best lap time to hit a slow 10.4s lap.
11-15-2009, 09:04 AM
#552
Tech Regular
set up help needed guys.
Ran my car for the first time this weekend. Meduim to meduim high grip.
Biggest problem was lack of rear end grip. Car was over rotating in corners. Sweepers ok.
Running 18 front springs ,green spooge on king pins. 1 degree of camber, caster I dont know.
Rear damper blue spring, oil weight again I dont know. Tubes thick spooge.High roll centre.
Tyres various combinations didnt cure the problem Tried Yellow /dpink , Pink Magenta Ride height 3.5 mm.
Any suggestions guys.
Biggest problem was lack of rear end grip. Car was over rotating in corners. Sweepers ok.
Running 18 front springs ,green spooge on king pins. 1 degree of camber, caster I dont know.
Rear damper blue spring, oil weight again I dont know. Tubes thick spooge.High roll centre.
Tyres various combinations didnt cure the problem Tried Yellow /dpink , Pink Magenta Ride height 3.5 mm.
Any suggestions guys.
Last edited by tellan; 11-15-2009 at 11:12 AM.
11-15-2009, 10:24 AM
#553
When I had that problem, Bruce recommended .020 front springs w/green spooge. 1' camber, 4' caster. If you don't know your caster setting you can't tune the car. Get a camber guage, RPM, Losi or other, put a long hinge pin or a piece of antenna in place of the kingpin, set it on a flat, level surface and measure it. Set the guage flat on the table and adjust the vertical edge until it is parallel to the temporary kingpin, then read the guage. Set caster first, then camber. 30 wt oil in the shock with a blue spring. Cut your ball cups to get the shock at a length that stops the pod from sinking when you pick the car up, this is 0' droop. .021 side springs adjusted to not touch the links below them. Green spooge in the tubes. front height 3.5-4 mm, rear 3.5-4mm, center height, below the battery, 3mm. Very important to have slight sag in center. Be absolutely sure there is no binding in the movement of the rear pod, NO BINDING. Most important. Yellow or Orange rear tires, Black fronts, or Lilac for more grip. When the car is planted in the rear you can start to change some of these settings to get it to handle the way you like it. I love this car.
11-15-2009, 04:53 PM
#554
I almost never run 18 front. they feel good to me for only 1 run. I always run 20 front springs. and If I need more weight tranfer I will work the rear settings to get more steering. also i run a lot of caster. the higher the bite, the lower the caster I run. this weekend i ran about 6-6.5 this was medium grip on carpet. in a club race I usualy run 8-8.5 caster. i know this is a lot, but it really works well and the car rolls the corners extremely fast. in vegas I lowered the caster to 3.5-4. also I like to run a little more droop them most. I ran 2mm this weekend with no sag. but usually in a club race I run .5mm sag and 1.5 droop. i measure this at the center of the chassis right infront of the lower pod plate. i run very little camber, usually 1 or the left and .5 on the right. we run clock wize so usually a faster right hand sweeper. I always run dbl pink fronts and yellow or orange rear. I seam to like the yellow because they seam more consistent to me. the orange tend to be a little squirly mid corner.
all this is with a 17.5
all this is with a 17.5
11-16-2009, 02:29 AM
#555
Tech Regular
set up guys
Keep it coming all really usefull info for the beginner. Learnt alot in a short space of time.In the Uk no one too ask trackside as im a lone speedmerchant runner.
Once again many thanks.
Once again many thanks.