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Old 10-18-2009, 06:41 AM
  #496  
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Originally Posted by corallyman
Does anybody know if this chassis is going into production anytime soon?
that is the Rev 5L. it has been in production since mid-summer.
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Old 10-18-2009, 06:43 AM
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Last edited by hanulec; 10-18-2009 at 06:45 AM. Reason: dupe
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Old 10-18-2009, 12:19 PM
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Originally Posted by hanulec
that is the Rev 5L. it has been in production since mid-summer.
Are you sure? I am not saying you're wrong as I don't own a REV 5 to compare it to but I read somewhere that this was a conversion for the AE car. If I am wrong is there such a product coming out. Those parts sure look like the AE car to me.

Steve
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Old 10-18-2009, 04:09 PM
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that is a speedmerchant conversion for the associated 12r5 no idea if it will be a production car.
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Old 10-18-2009, 08:44 PM
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Donny Lia

You have a PM!

Thanks
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Old 10-21-2009, 05:18 AM
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Default old jaco rims

Can i use the old style front jaco rims on the rev5? I tried a set and i cant get the nut tight without the wheel binding up on the bearing. It's almost like the axle need to be a mm or two longer.
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Old 10-21-2009, 06:15 AM
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you can, but the old wheel have always been a problem no matter what front end you used. you have to be friends with a dremel and work the ball cups and also the shimming is critical. I also found removing the color dot for the compound
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Old 10-21-2009, 08:28 AM
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02/16/2007 Hi Guys. I get a lot of e-mails asking how we off-set the JACO front rims to give our 4.5's a wider stance for high traction conditions. It's actually pretty easy with the proper tool. We use an American Standard prop reamer. They are available thru Tower Hobbies, and are under $15.00. Here's a direct link. Prop Reamer
Have a great day.-Bruce
The link is dead, but find a standard prop reamer. I believe it was only the outside one you needed to ream. I always had Bruce do it for me back then, but you ran the standard flanged bearing inside and an unflanged outside. So I think you only need to do the outside to seat the unflanged bearing.

If not we have been running our rev5's with prism wheels shimmed out for a while now. Sounds like a similar situation, we simply run the nut backwards so that the nylon locking part of the nut goes inward toward the car instead of out.
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Old 10-21-2009, 08:54 AM
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hey man, whats up
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Old 10-21-2009, 01:09 PM
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Default Wheels and tyres for the rev5

Due to take delivery of a couple of rev5s in the next week or so. Due to go too the Snowbirds in 2010 for the first time. Never raced on a Usa rug. Looking for tyre advice .
What you guys running on the Snowbird type carpet. Also as regards handling what sizes front/rear rubber. TIA
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Old 10-21-2009, 01:34 PM
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Originally Posted by tellan
Due to take delivery of a couple of rev5s in the next week or so. Due to go too the Snowbirds in 2010 for the first time. Never raced on a Usa rug. Looking for tyre advice .
What you guys running on the Snowbird type carpet. Also as regards handling what sizes front/rear rubber. TIA
which motor class?
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Old 10-21-2009, 02:30 PM
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Default what class

Hope to enter 10.5 and need to choose between open mod or 17.5. Never ran 17.5 before so would need to buy one.
Also need to look at timings to see if i could manage all 3, dont know how hectic that will be.
Will have 2 cars kitted up.
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Old 10-21-2009, 02:43 PM
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Originally Posted by theisgroup
you can, but the old wheel have always been a problem no matter what front end you used. you have to be friends with a dremel and work the ball cups and also the shimming is critical. I also found removing the color dot for the compound
Thanks for the help

Originally Posted by JoelV
The link is dead, but find a standard prop reamer. I believe it was only the outside one you needed to ream. I always had Bruce do it for me back then, but you ran the standard flanged bearing inside and an unflanged outside. So I think you only need to do the outside to seat the unflanged bearing.

If not we have been running our rev5's with prism wheels shimmed out for a while now. Sounds like a similar situation, we simply run the nut backwards so that the nylon locking part of the nut goes inward toward the car instead of out.
Am i lucky or what? I actually have a prop reamer...I reamed it out so the flanged bearing is flush with the wheel and was able to get the nut on. Only thing is i might not be able to change the track width much. I'll deal with that the need comes. Now onto the ball cups.

Originally Posted by hanulec
which motor class?
Hanulec the man!! Whats up? See you Saturday
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Old 10-21-2009, 03:04 PM
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Default ride height

Can you tell me what the minimum tire diameter is to get 3.5 ride height in the front and rear? Without any shims under the front spacer preferred and using number 1 spacer in the rear.
Thanks for the help guys..
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Old 10-21-2009, 03:24 PM
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Originally Posted by nitrobeast
Can you tell me what the minimum tire diameter is to get 3.5 ride height in the front and rear? Without any shims under the front spacer preferred and using number 1 spacer in the rear.
Thanks for the help guys..
I can't answer the q that way. i've run 40.5 mm fronts with a thin shim (crc) and the big black block shim.

in the rear we always run the assoc #4 - even when tires are 44mm high
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