BlackedOutREVO

iTrader: (67)

I ran somewhere in the 6.0 range with my co27

And went to 5.2, 5.1

skiv

ive got the novak ss and want to shorten the sensor wire, is it possible to open up the motor and do desolder the wires cut them and re solder them back in. i dont want to start undoing the motor and then find its a waste of time

thanks

andrewdoherty

iTrader: (49)

its a waste of time. Don't even bother thinking about it. Just leave em long and wait till someone comes out with sensorless orr Novak makes their sensor harness plug in at the motor and the ESC.

BlackedOutREVO

iTrader: (67)

Like said

You cant

You can cut them in the middle and re solder them, but that voids the warranty..... It isnt worth it

Orion, LRP, and a few others have removable wires though

adamge

iTrader: (1)

You can cut the sensor wire shorter, then crimp new connectors on.

BlackedOutREVO

iTrader: (67)

That would work too

But still voids the warranty......

syndr0me

iTrader: (32)

Poor thread. :-(

sportpak

iTrader: (26)

Let's get back on track.....

I hope the Halloween Classic meets the twenty entries for their exhibition class. It's supposed to be a 13.5/lipo/rubber tire/TC class. I plan to run that with my Novak 13.5 stuff. I look forward to seeing a variety of 13.5 stuff in action together. My home town mandates Novak goods. I may or may not have enough "wheel" to hang, but I hope I'm close enough to see how good the other stuff is. Should be fun.

I'm contemplating having the 13mm rotor. I like the the current feel and don't want too many tuning options to get bogged down with. I can go crazy with details and lose direction.

Ben

BlackedOutREVO

iTrader: (67)

I know a racer at my track is a AWESOME driver, and he got the 13mm rotor, and geared his 13.5 to 3.9 FDR with a lrp heatsink fan, it didnt thermal, and was FASTER THEN HECK

So the 13 mm rotor can really go aways with gearing, too far

Syber Serulean

iTrader: (28)

sorry im still a bit noobish when it comes to gear ratios. Are you giving me the number when you divide the teeth on the spur by the teeth on the pinion? How many teeth did you move up? That'd be easier for me to understand haha

BlackedOutREVO

iTrader: (67)

http://www.gearchart.com/index.cfm?f...n=chart.create

Choose cyclone

Then put in your spur number, and your pinion number

And then you can choose start in the middle, beginning, or end

And then it will start the ratios

Learn to use it, it will come in BIG handy

But im not 100% sure on how you find the FDR, I just know gear chart does it for you lol

I moved up 8-10 teeth on the pinion IIRC, and dropped 2 on the spur

Syber Serulean

iTrader: (28)

Thanks...

but i have a Tc3, not a cyclone. Looking from what you orignally said though, seems like i have to go up 4 or 5 teeth to drop the ratio enough. Provides me with a starting point, so thanks again. Im not gonna want drop teeth on th spur but if i need to i will. I seen that website before, never thought much of it then my friend always carried a printout of his ratios in his box and i was like "that does make things easier" so glad you linked me. I printed the sheet haha.


but booo to having to tear open the diffs because im hearing a grinding sound. lol (gotta fix it before brushless, otherwise they'll just get destroyed).

BlackedOutREVO

iTrader: (67)

My bad, I said cyclone because I have one lol

Same thing though

Just figure out how to use it, I didnt want to, but when I did, made life alot easier to keep track of gearing and all

syndr0me

iTrader: (32)

The oval guys are saying the 13mm rotor is slower in a 13.5 than the standard sintered rotor. I can't tell if that's the case or not, but I do prefer how it feels, at least in on-road. I think my rollout was 49-50mm with it. It brakes a little harder off throttle, so you'll transfer more weight forward. I was having trouble with oversteer if I got off the throttle too much.

BlackedOutREVO

iTrader: (67)

Did you gear up?

Going from 5.0 to 3.9 with the new rotor and LRP is pretty big

I think you could probably gear to 4.8 or so