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Old 06-22-2009, 08:47 PM   #721
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Quote:
Originally Posted by yodace View Post
Need some hlp with the rear of my TC5r... the rear is loose when i enter and exit a turn...currently I am using rp36, i also took the washers out on the upper deck, front i have silver springs and the rear i have green.everything is nearly stock location wise.......asphalt track temp was around 150.......
assuming front ball diff
front greens are 12.5 lb
rear silvers are 14.5 lb

Springs are OK

The 4 wheel drive touring car is very sensitive to rear toe in. Since your springs are actually setup to push (if you have a front ball diff), I am guessing your rear toe-in is insufficient. Use the manual to get 2.5 degrees of rear toe, I believe this is a thick and thin toe in shim inside of the rear lower A-arm rear mount. Then add a .025 plastic washer of some kind to increase toe to 2.75 degrees. 3.0 degrees is too much. I suspect this will fix you right up. I do need to know if you are running a locked diff. If so go to silver front silver rear springs.
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Old 06-23-2009, 03:54 AM   #722
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[QUOTE=John Stranahan;5966335]Novak Eats LRP

I think you are very brave to run a 3.5T at any brand with 2 cell Lipo and in very hot temperature.

I have problems to get my LRP 5.0T under 212 Fahrenheit or 100 Celsius
thinking off installing a cooling fan.
Keep up the good work

Thanks

Alf :-)
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Old 06-23-2009, 05:06 AM   #723
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Alf-The old LRP TC edition is the best ever made to handle the heat. I have absolutely no problems with it.

I am using 3 little fans on the motor to run 6 minutes in the TC. I dissasembled the motor. No evidence of overheating.
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Old 06-23-2009, 06:37 AM   #724
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Hi John, I got some problems with the back of the car wanting to side out when entering corners, it's good under power so maybe weight transfer.
I have a TC5R, running the slipper spool and it's setup as per your locked front diff setup, weight is 1430 grams balanced side to side with a tray and front to rear with 20 grams more on the rear.
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Old 06-23-2009, 07:18 AM   #725
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I run the spool in the front.....i did take the think washer out for the rear toe....will have to reinstall it again>>> droop up front was 6 rear was 5>>>>
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Old 06-23-2009, 07:22 AM   #726
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John H-I always slow, then enter corners on power, then adjust power to keep the car on a smooth drift for the entire corner. This may be all that you need to do. If you are coming in to the corner too hot there is a tendency to let off throttle on entry to keep the car tight to the apex.

You have .7 ounces excess in the back. I had my car this way for just a session or two on the asphalt recently. I did not like the way it tracked (a little bit of wander) and cornered this way (unpredictable). I moved weight back until there was at least 2 ounce excess in the back. I liked the resulting improvement in straight line stability and more predictable cornering. I could drive harder. On corner entry some of this weight is transferred forward; you end up with a more even tire loading. This may help your corner entry problem as well as a slight driving change.

Yodace-with a spool, front silvers 14.5 lb/in and green rears 12.5 lb/in will do just the opposite of what they do with a ball diff. With a ball diff the tendency of a more stiff front is to give you less steering traction. With a spool more weight is transfered to the outside front which is now driven hard by the spool. You get more torque steer to the inside of the turn. You have in effect more steering traction.

put silvers on the front and rear to balance the car better with the locked diff. Fine tune the upper position remebering stiffer in front (upper shock pivot out) gives more steering with a locked diff, then tinker with that rear toe in.
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Old 06-23-2009, 01:24 PM   #727
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do u suggest running thes rubber washers under the screws on the top deck/?
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Old 06-23-2009, 04:46 PM   #728
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Thanks John for your advice, I'll setup the car with the sugested rear weight and try next race day.
A driver imput change will be a bit harder, I remember the first TC5 std setup used to have a little anti dive in the front, do you think this may help.
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Old 06-23-2009, 05:31 PM   #729
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I don't like antidive much. It makes the car go through corner entry bumps very poorly. With a spool antidive will likely do the opposite of a balldiff car and give you more steering on corner entry. This is opposite of what you need. I don't like prodive much either.
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Old 06-23-2009, 06:03 PM   #730
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Hi John S,
I've just got my hands on a TC5R
I run at a track with low traction concrete/ asphalt (rubber tyres)
Any suggestions on set up for 17.5 (I like running a spool)
Many thanks in advance
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Last edited by FK05 lover; 06-23-2009 at 06:13 PM.
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Old 06-23-2009, 07:30 PM   #731
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If traction is low reduce roll stiffness in steps until the car starts gripping again. First remove roll bars, I only use the heavy bars if traction roll is an issue. Then move top of spring inward front and back. Then change springs to lighter tension front and back. Blue 17.5 to silver 14.5. Silver 14.5 to Green 12.5. The roll center is good with my setup, only adjust it a little to fine tune.

So for blue springs on slippery concrete/ asphalt, try my setup for locked diff but use the green springs. The posted setup is not motor specific. I am heading lighter myself as soon as I order silver and green springs.
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Old 06-23-2009, 08:07 PM   #732
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what arm mounts are u using front and rear< for the set up u posted?
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Old 06-24-2009, 03:05 AM   #733
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Yodace -The longest ones that are labeled 1; I'll add a #1 to my setup.

washers or O-rings under top plate

I don't like washers or O-rings under the top plate. I want those screws tight, with loctite under the heads, so they don't wear oversized and cause tweak problems. Use the optional ITF upper deck for more flex on asphalt or cut yours away like I did to mine.

X-ray T2 ECD axles, Motor Cooling, Speed control
These are working great. Wear on my nylon outdrive cups seems to be reduced. I had a couple of hard crashes without bending the axles. I have about 45 minutes of track time on them. That's about 2 races. Cooling now also seems adequate. The old LRP TC edition speed control worked fine at a track temperature of 149 F yesterday with 96F air temp.
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Last edited by John Stranahan; 06-26-2009 at 05:01 AM.
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Old 06-26-2009, 02:29 AM   #734
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[QUOTE=alf.skaar;5973742]
Quote:
Originally Posted by John Stranahan View Post
Novak Eats LRP

I think you are very brave to run a 3.5T at any brand with 2 cell Lipo and in very hot temperature.

I have problems to get my LRP 5.0T under 212 Fahrenheit or 100 Celsius
thinking off installing a cooling fan.
Keep up the good work

Thanks

Alf :-)
I tested whit the LRP heat sink and fan and the temp is down to 65-70 Celsius now

http://www.lrp.cc/en/products/electr...g-set/details/

Alf
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Old 06-26-2009, 07:27 AM   #735
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Very nice

Try use GM engines like evo3 6delta (it should have fan on rotor) and GM 120 ESC (I don't know if delta wire works with LRP/GTB).
m.
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