Is it time again for 1/10th scale pan cars?
07-10-2007, 04:58 PM
#91
i'll plan for the future.. 7.4v and 17.5 motors.
07-10-2007, 05:25 PM
#93
Thats great...how are you going to gear it? You will have to redesign the rear pod (this will wreck the cars weight distribution) to get the right pinion and spur combo to fit.
Everything we've tested on the ROUNDY ROUND has the 4 cell/10.5 combo running virtually the exact same speed as the LIPO/17.5 speed...and almost the exact SAME gear ratio too.
(10.5's on 4 cell should turn about 20,100 rpm "unloaded", the 17.5 on a 2c Lipo should be really close 'also unloaded' The LIPO should PULL harder out of the corner...and WILL be lighter.)
Personally the last time I had my pan car together (Back when the RED 1400's were THE battery to have) I really liked 4 cell STOCK speeds on the small tight track we had...
NOVAK will have another SLOWER motor available in he not too distant future too... (Yes, slower than the 17.5) aimed closer to what STOCK/4 cell cars run on the oval...but designed to run on the LIPOS
07-10-2007, 06:17 PM
#95
Sorry for the noob question, but...
Why 1/10 pan when 1/12 pan doing extremely well?? Wasn't they basically the same but different scale??
Me thinking to restart 1/12 pan..
Why 1/10 pan when 1/12 pan doing extremely well?? Wasn't they basically the same but different scale??
Me thinking to restart 1/12 pan..
07-10-2007, 06:30 PM
#96
One reason is a guy like me can actually see a 1/10 pan
. Another reason is that tire wear or chunking is not so critical. The 1/10 car works fine with a chunked tire. Tire wear is low. 1/10 scale works better on an oudoor track that is not so smooth. The 1/10 cars have bodies that resemble real full size race cars to some degree. Now if your space is limited and you are inside on carpet then 1/12 scale is going to be ideal.
John
. Another reason is that tire wear or chunking is not so critical. The 1/10 car works fine with a chunked tire. Tire wear is low. 1/10 scale works better on an oudoor track that is not so smooth. The 1/10 cars have bodies that resemble real full size race cars to some degree. Now if your space is limited and you are inside on carpet then 1/12 scale is going to be ideal.John
07-10-2007, 07:00 PM
#98
Now I get it. Thanks.
07-11-2007, 02:29 AM
#99
I've sent the suggestion for 1/10th pan cars with the 13.5 with 6 cells or lipos to be put on the ballot.Oh yes wide or narrow chassis.Adrian I sent both you and BMI and e-mail several days ago and no answer?did ya'll recieve them?I believe I've found someone that can make my wide chassis narrow- I'll find out more today.
07-11-2007, 08:19 AM
#100
One reason is a guy like me can actually see a 1/10 pan. Another reason is that tire wear or chunking is not so critical. The 1/10 car works fine with a chunked tire. Tire wear is low. 1/10 scale works better on an oudoor track that is not so smooth. The 1/10 cars have bodies that resemble real full size race cars to some degree. Now if your space is limited and you are inside on carpet then 1/12 scale is going to be ideal.
John
. Another reason is that tire wear or chunking is not so critical. The 1/10 car works fine with a chunked tire. Tire wear is low. 1/10 scale works better on an oudoor track that is not so smooth. The 1/10 cars have bodies that resemble real full size race cars to some degree. Now if your space is limited and you are inside on carpet then 1/12 scale is going to be ideal.John
JOHN,
HOW LONG DOES THE AVERAGE FOAM TIRE LAST ON ASPHALT. I'M SURE THEY LAST A HELL OF ALOT LONG THAN THE 4 RUN RUBBER TIRES ON MY TOURING CAR........
07-11-2007, 08:29 AM
#101
Well...since some are thinking 4 cell 27T is too fast for some smaller carpet tracks what do you suggest....540 can motors?
7.4v Lipo with a 27T or 13.5BL will be faster than Sedan Mod lap time wise...its was the last time I ran it a few years ago.
I think running 4 cell might be the way to go. You can run normal motors like 13.5, 10.5 and 5.5 BL to get normal ranges of speed from novice to expert level drivers.
7.4v Lipo with a 27T or 13.5BL will be faster than Sedan Mod lap time wise...its was the last time I ran it a few years ago.
I think running 4 cell might be the way to go. You can run normal motors like 13.5, 10.5 and 5.5 BL to get normal ranges of speed from novice to expert level drivers.
I RAN MY ASSOCAITED 10TH PAN @ SUPERIOR WITH A 6 CELL 3800 AND A 19 TURN CHECKPOINT AND IT WAS A BLAST. THE MOTOR JUST CAME TO LIFE ON THE SUPER LITE PAN CAR CHASSIS.IT WAS JUST SO MUCH FUN VERY EASY TO DRIVE ONCE SET UP. I ALSO HAVE NO PROBLEM RUNNING MINE UP AND DOWN THE STREET IN FRONT OF MY HOUSE ON A DUSTY ROAD. THE JUST HOOKS UP (SUPER FUN STUFF).......
07-11-2007, 08:44 AM
#102
1/10th on road pan car
hey all:If you want a nw 1/10th on road pancar then look at what darkside motorsports is now offering coooool. 
07-11-2007, 10:27 AM
#103
RedlineMO3-Rear tires on asphalt last about sixteen 8 minute runs. At this point I have about .1 inch of foam left which I could use if the track was smoother. The front tires last about the same. On a sugar water treated track they wear faster, but our track quit using sugar water so my wear is good.
John
John
07-11-2007, 05:54 PM
#104
16 runs if you are just playing.
If you are racing with serious guys you true your tires down to about where John stops running his tires. At that point they are fast for about 4 runs before they are too small for asphalt....then they are great carpet tires...lol!
If you run full size tires the car is slow and too stuck. Even if everyone at a track agrees to run full size tires to start as they wear they get faster so everyone ends up truing down tires to be competative.
If you are racing with serious guys you true your tires down to about where John stops running his tires. At that point they are fast for about 4 runs before they are too small for asphalt....then they are great carpet tires...lol!
If you run full size tires the car is slow and too stuck. Even if everyone at a track agrees to run full size tires to start as they wear they get faster so everyone ends up truing down tires to be competative.
07-11-2007, 07:41 PM
#105
Well that is the first tiime someone has called me a not serious racer. Anyway different tracks require different size tires. I agree that if an outdoor asphalt track is smooth and high bite with no dust, a short tire is the way to go to race. Good luck finding one of these. I practice the fronts down until they are short and save the good ones to race. A big rear tire on our track is always faster, though. I start races with a big rear tire and medium front tire. As the traction builds up during the race, I put on shorter front tires. I never need to put on a short rear tire. I have plenty of power with a novak 3.5R, a big rear tire always give me more forward traction.
So Adrian when is the last time your raced a 1/10 widepan. The guys in Europe that race pans still, get about 2 races and two practice sessions as well. No weenie motors over there. 6 cells and 3.5 or 4.5R is the norm.
ps my prototype can whip the hell out of your drawing. Yes I have run it against a t-plate car now.
John
. Anyway different tracks require different size tires. I agree that if an outdoor asphalt track is smooth and high bite with no dust, a short tire is the way to go to race. Good luck finding one of these. I practice the fronts down until they are short and save the good ones to race. A big rear tire on our track is always faster, though. I start races with a big rear tire and medium front tire. As the traction builds up during the race, I put on shorter front tires. I never need to put on a short rear tire. I have plenty of power with a novak 3.5R, a big rear tire always give me more forward traction. So Adrian when is the last time your raced a 1/10 widepan. The guys in Europe that race pans still, get about 2 races and two practice sessions as well. No weenie motors over there. 6 cells and 3.5 or 4.5R is the norm.
ps my prototype can whip the hell out of your drawing. Yes I have run it against a t-plate car now.
John