Sedan vs 1/12th scale budget
#2
Tech Regular
iTrader: (3)
12 scale is definitly cheaper, buy 4-5 sets of tires rotate them out each race and they will last all year. Your motors and brushes will last almost forever as compared to touring car. Half the moving parts, half the wear, half the replacement. As well the strain of 4 cells vs the strain of 6 cells.
#5
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (1)
In the long run, I'd say racing 1/12th is almost half the price. With 1/12th there is less weight, tires last longer, gears last longer, less parts, fewer breaks, less batteries to purchase/maintain, and we get to race for 8 minutes for the same price as 5 minutes. 60% more track time! This will improve your skills faster. One of my favorite aspects to 1/12th is the skill sharpening it offers. If you can drive 12th, you can drive anything.
I think one of the main reasons Touring cars are so popular is because they are initially easy to learn on. For example, if a new RC hobbyist is playing with his new touring car in his driveway, street, or parking lot, it's relatively easy to drive. You can mash on the throttle and all 4 wheels accelerate the car and it maintains control. Whereas, with 1/12th, you can't always do that. You have to "think" about your throttle finger as much as your steering. Otherwise, it will just spin out due to their power and 2WD. So with 1/12th, you learn more throttle finesse, and it improves your skills.
Additionally, 1/12th is known for it's accuracy. As someone once put it, "it's like a scalpel versus butcher's knife". 1/12th is precise, and that in itself, will help you take your skills to the next level. With other classes, I've seen so many people struggle to improve, only to find out their steering was sluggish, inaccurate, or non-centering. With other classes, like trucks, Mini-T's, touring, etc.., the steering is usually not direct to the servo. It goes through multiple steering linkages. This often results in the wheels not doing exactly what you are telling it to do. No wonder why they are having a hard time taking it up to the next level. Of course, with work, you can get them fairly accurate, it's just in general, 1/12th steering is about as efficient as you can get it.
Touring cars on carpet is an overkill. You don't need 4 wheel independent suspension and 4WD on carpet. This is why 1/12th is faster than touring cars even though we run 4.8V versus 7.2V. A 1/12th on carpet sticks like it's on rails.
While we are on the subject of budget racing, keep brushless in your mind as you make your initial purchase. In the long run, it will be much cheaper.
I think one of the main reasons Touring cars are so popular is because they are initially easy to learn on. For example, if a new RC hobbyist is playing with his new touring car in his driveway, street, or parking lot, it's relatively easy to drive. You can mash on the throttle and all 4 wheels accelerate the car and it maintains control. Whereas, with 1/12th, you can't always do that. You have to "think" about your throttle finger as much as your steering. Otherwise, it will just spin out due to their power and 2WD. So with 1/12th, you learn more throttle finesse, and it improves your skills.
Additionally, 1/12th is known for it's accuracy. As someone once put it, "it's like a scalpel versus butcher's knife". 1/12th is precise, and that in itself, will help you take your skills to the next level. With other classes, I've seen so many people struggle to improve, only to find out their steering was sluggish, inaccurate, or non-centering. With other classes, like trucks, Mini-T's, touring, etc.., the steering is usually not direct to the servo. It goes through multiple steering linkages. This often results in the wheels not doing exactly what you are telling it to do. No wonder why they are having a hard time taking it up to the next level. Of course, with work, you can get them fairly accurate, it's just in general, 1/12th steering is about as efficient as you can get it.
Touring cars on carpet is an overkill. You don't need 4 wheel independent suspension and 4WD on carpet. This is why 1/12th is faster than touring cars even though we run 4.8V versus 7.2V. A 1/12th on carpet sticks like it's on rails.
While we are on the subject of budget racing, keep brushless in your mind as you make your initial purchase. In the long run, it will be much cheaper.
Last edited by James35; 03-10-2007 at 02:26 PM.
#6
Without a doubt, 12th scale is definitely the class to race. You won't be disappointed.
Good luck
Loren
Good luck
Loren
#7
Tech Master
Without a doubt.....
you lot haven't tried to run 1/12th for a year outdoors because hardly anyone in 'your' country runs on carpet.
I did and it's far more expensive than racing Sedans I only ran 19 turn and a set of tires was history after 6-7 races.
So reverse everything they said above if you ever have to race on concrete/asphalt etc.
I did and it's far more expensive than racing Sedans I only ran 19 turn and a set of tires was history after 6-7 races.
So reverse everything they said above if you ever have to race on concrete/asphalt etc.
#8
Tech Champion
iTrader: (21)
Great post James35.
I'd expand it to say a pan car will run you 1/2 the price to be competitive every week compared to just being "out there" in sedan. If you want to compare, "running up front" every week to like, it's closer to 1/3rd the cost as sedan can become a synonym for "expensive" if you start to take it "serious".
They're not parking lot racers but for everything else, I can't see a better way to go.
I'd expand it to say a pan car will run you 1/2 the price to be competitive every week compared to just being "out there" in sedan. If you want to compare, "running up front" every week to like, it's closer to 1/3rd the cost as sedan can become a synonym for "expensive" if you start to take it "serious".
They're not parking lot racers but for everything else, I can't see a better way to go.
#9
If you are starting from scratch then I would say that 12th scale is less expensive. Kits cost a lot less, tires are about the same and 4-cell packs are less. Speed controls, receivers...are about the same.
If you run 12th scale as a second class, it can get quite expensive because you still have to buy 4-cell packs (they do not take 6-cell packs anymore), tires (can't run sedan tires on a 12th). I have found that running a second sedan to be the less expensive way to go. If you are running one in mod and the other in stock then you can share batteries, tires...Or if you want to run two classes, just swap motors.
To get the most out of 12th scale, you have to commit to it. Buy a good car, good batteries, good electronics... Learn to set it up and drive. They are a blast! Like anything else in this hobby, the most expensive route is by doing it cheap...you always end up buying things twice.
I like to run either/or sedan or 12th scale. The mind-set, driving style and setup is so different that I have a hard time switching between the two within the same night.
Try 12th scale, you will like it, just don't treat it like a second class.
If you run 12th scale as a second class, it can get quite expensive because you still have to buy 4-cell packs (they do not take 6-cell packs anymore), tires (can't run sedan tires on a 12th). I have found that running a second sedan to be the less expensive way to go. If you are running one in mod and the other in stock then you can share batteries, tires...Or if you want to run two classes, just swap motors.
To get the most out of 12th scale, you have to commit to it. Buy a good car, good batteries, good electronics... Learn to set it up and drive. They are a blast! Like anything else in this hobby, the most expensive route is by doing it cheap...you always end up buying things twice.
I like to run either/or sedan or 12th scale. The mind-set, driving style and setup is so different that I have a hard time switching between the two within the same night.
Try 12th scale, you will like it, just don't treat it like a second class.
#10
Tech Champion
iTrader: (21)
Originally Posted by Mabuchi540
I did and it's far more expensive than racing Sedans I only ran 19 turn and a set of tires was history after 6-7 races.
6-7 races (i.e. 8 minutes a shot – “runs”) or “race days”?
6-7 racedays is phenomenal compared to the 2ish that set of sedan tires maintain top performance for on asphalt. 6-7runs/races still equals roughly 2 racedays so even if tires are equalized, everything else should last longer on the 1/12th.
#11
Tech Master
I wish it had been race days but no ....
Originally Posted by MarkA
6-7 races (i.e. 8 minutes a shot – “runs”) or “race days”?
6-7 racedays is phenomenal compared to the 2ish that set of sedan tires maintain top performance for on asphalt. 6-7runs/races still equals roughly 2 racedays so even if tires are equalized, everything else should last longer on the 1/12th.
6-7 racedays is phenomenal compared to the 2ish that set of sedan tires maintain top performance for on asphalt. 6-7runs/races still equals roughly 2 racedays so even if tires are equalized, everything else should last longer on the 1/12th.
Almost everything else lasted longer but with the cost of importing tires (no local supplier) it just got to be too expensive, I did love it for the less between 'race day' work but the tire budget just killed it for me. I don't doubt that had there been a local carpet track the story would have been different.
Basically if you rotated tires and took good care of them and at the end of the 6-7th race you re-trued them to start out evenly the next race day, once both tires (front or rear set) were re-trued to an equal size (based on the smaller of the two) then by the time they came off the lathe the diameter was unusable for outdoors.
#12
Tech Champion
iTrader: (21)
Originally Posted by Mabuchi540
6-7 'races' not 'race days'.
Almost everything else lasted longer but with the cost of importing tires (no local supplier) it just got to be too expensive, I did love it for the less between race work but the tire budget just killed it for me. I don't doubt that had there been a local carpet track the story would have been different.
Almost everything else lasted longer but with the cost of importing tires (no local supplier) it just got to be too expensive, I did love it for the less between race work but the tire budget just killed it for me. I don't doubt that had there been a local carpet track the story would have been different.
#13
Originally Posted by Mabuchi540
you lot haven't tried to run 1/12th for a year outdoors because hardly anyone in 'your' country runs on carpet.
I did and it's far more expensive than racing Sedans I only ran 19 turn and a set of tires was history after 6-7 races.
So reverse everything they said above if you ever have to race on concrete/asphalt etc.
I did and it's far more expensive than racing Sedans I only ran 19 turn and a set of tires was history after 6-7 races.
So reverse everything they said above if you ever have to race on concrete/asphalt etc.
Good luck
Loren
Last edited by llamont; 03-10-2007 at 04:36 PM.
#14
Tech Lord
iTrader: (13)
i race both touring car mod and 19 turn 1/12th on asphalt all year around and 1/12th is much cheaper.my 1/12th car costs me 30 bucks for tires to race and thats it.i rarely break it,its a ton of fun,and the replacement parts are cheap if i need em.touring car is fun but very expensive.40-80 bucks a week(if i run 2 sets) for tires,rebuild the motors so brushes,tire warmer,it all adds up.touring is fun as hell but definately more expensive especially if racing competitively.
#15
Tech Adept
12th is definitely cheaper, and in my opinion, much more fun!
12th scale cars are much easier to get setup than any TC. It's amazingly easy to put on a drivable setup (build the car based on the kit instructions). From there, it isn't too hard at all to start fine-tuning it.
I began my carpet racing MANY years ago running a 10th pan car, and within a couple of weeks I jumped on 12th scale. It's been my favorite class of racing for nearly 15 years now.
Tires last forever and very few parts ever break. The only problem I have is with the lifespan of a body. But, that's all my fault, I hate slowing down in the corners!
With the current crop of 4200 batteries, any class except mod is no big deal. Plenty of runtime and more than enough voltage. You don't need the best to run club races.
So try it, I'm sure you'll like it!
12th scale cars are much easier to get setup than any TC. It's amazingly easy to put on a drivable setup (build the car based on the kit instructions). From there, it isn't too hard at all to start fine-tuning it.
I began my carpet racing MANY years ago running a 10th pan car, and within a couple of weeks I jumped on 12th scale. It's been my favorite class of racing for nearly 15 years now.
Tires last forever and very few parts ever break. The only problem I have is with the lifespan of a body. But, that's all my fault, I hate slowing down in the corners!
With the current crop of 4200 batteries, any class except mod is no big deal. Plenty of runtime and more than enough voltage. You don't need the best to run club races.
So try it, I'm sure you'll like it!