bvoltz

iTrader: (44)

The whole EPA brake thing... (You forget about this stuff when it become second nature... I do not know, because I adjust that and steering during the race with my thumb... sometimes more, sometimes less. But really my EPA on steering is about 50% (but that will change every time out on the track) and EPA on Brakes starting at about 60% (again, this changes...)

SlamMan

It seems, to be the best driver you can be, you really need to learn to use the brakes instead of relying the drag brake for slowing down and weight transfer.

Is there any reason to use very much drag brake if any if you are a driver who uses brakes? Even setting the throttle to almost creep at neutral?

gotpez

Racing stock and 19t TC and 12th scale, brakes are used only to avoid accidents.

I find that when entering a corner that backing off the throttle from 100% down to 50%-75% is enough. Once you hit the brakes, you lose the inertia of the motor spinning, so only use it when necessary. This is a tip that was given to be by several National Champion racers. They are fast, I believe them!

Now Mod is a different story. I use brakes all the time. It's the only way to bring the rocket back into the atmosphere before turning!!!

UN4RACING

iTrader: (22)

Gotpez you hit on some thing. Slower motors less drag less stab. Faster motors require more and so on. And when I ran 12th scale I had no drag just creep. I actually used the the amount of throw in my steering to scrubb the turn's. And no stab just enough to shun the car I guess would be a good description. Just finding that perfect feel is the hard part.

Man its good to talk R/C again.
Slamman right on.

UN4RACING

iTrader: (22)

Bvolt I hear ya. 27 turn. Cruise control. Just enough creep it would drive itself through the turn's. I better stop reminesing I'll stomp on my 4300 and get another 27.

UN4RACING

iTrader: (22)

Slamman finding a perfect balance at neutral drag is throttle control. You can actually use throttle control to adjust your drag. But try 20% nuetral drag, run 20 laps useing throttle control.. Then try 40% run it 20 laps useing throttle control. Just feel it. Then add creep. Try 5% at a time and you'll kinda get a feel. Now let's say at 40% with enough creep the car's rolling and still has to much drag, back up to 30% and try again, or 20% and so on. It come's to you. Try to flow. Point and shoot is really slower. That's just My opinion and I rarely practice it.
Go fast and try not to crash.

UN4RACING

iTrader: (22)

Maybe this is the theory, that your looking for. At nuetral as long as your giving forward throttle your adjusting creep, and as long as your not letting off the throttle back to nuetral your adjusting drag brake. Nuetral is stab brake. Or am i just melting both of our brain's. I think that would be a good way for you to get the real exsperiance to the differance. Never mind just throw the radio aganst the wall and get a new one.

SlamMan

Someone will have to define stab brake for me...

I think some of this is relative to the track and it's size. We pretty much just run stock/13.5 at our local carpet track. It's relatively small and tight and I just can't see a way that you could run the entire track by just modulating the throttle and be fast. You wouldn't be able to reach top speed in many sections as you would be preparing for the next turn. I've been watching the fastest guy at our track. He lets off throttle completely for just a split second in a tight turn to transfer weight forward for more turning traction. Now in a larger flowing track like the one we run outside in the summer I can see running most of that without letting off the throttle. With the few tight turns that there are though I would think that your still need some forward weight transfer to get that good turn in traction.

How big and flowing or small and tight are some of the tracks you guys race on?

Here is a shot of our track.
http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y84...AwMTEuanBn.jpg

UN4RACING

iTrader: (22)

I agree you wont be fast. The fine tuning to the radio will be the fastest way around. Stab brake is an easier cooler way to say full on throw the trigger forward brake. Sorry to confuse you. The adjustments are there so you can kinda put the car on cruise control and let the radio do some of the work.

UN4RACING

iTrader: (22)

Dude I love those driver stands. You just started a whole new thread. That track with stock 13.5 No drag, I would dial in steering and adjust the creep.
Probably 20% drag setting GTB I would use #3 setting. Looks like a good groove it take's racer's to keep the groove black. Of coarse that would be my starting point.And I like the elboe room of your stand's.

Jack Smash

iTrader: (35)

SlamMan, that track really isn't small and tight. It's pretty big for a carpet track. In stock I dont think there would be much braking, mostly just lifting a bit.

adamge

iTrader: (1)

Yeah man. By my standards, that's a huge indoor carpet track, and very open.

SlamMan

When you say lift do you mean all the way back to neutral throttle allowing the drag brake to engage or just less throttle?

That picture was taken with my camera phone which gives is a slight fish eye. It does look bigger in the pic than it really is. It's about an 80 x 45 ft track. It feels tight to me at least. Be it braking with your finger or just returning the throttle to neutral to allow the drag brake to engage it still requires some form of slowing down to negotiate some of the tighter turns.

Jack Smash

iTrader: (35)

To me that layout looked pretty flowing, most corners probably lift to 25% throttle and maybe on one almost al the way off. I don't see a need for any brake unless your running mod, end then it might be just a quick touch at the end of the straight to set the nose of the car.

ADDMAN

i have a GT7 and it has no breaking at all i have tryed changing pinion and spur but joy can anyone help