Maybell

iTrader: (2)

SAWEET!!!

Mike Ellis

iTrader: (5)

I'll take one please

Victor Vector

iTrader: (9)

Me too ...............

Quante

iTrader: (6)

CShearburn, thx for the reply and I'm gonna try your setup this weekend and hope the car finally sits as well as my CK.
The strange thing with the GenX I find is that the sides of the chassis never hit the carpet... not even during hard cornering. Thats why I think its not rotating well enough. When I try by hand it is practically impossible for the sides to touch because the sidelinks bind on the balls before the chassis hits the carpet...
Anyway, definately gonna try your setup!

Thx

CShearburn

iTrader: (5)

The main reason for this is due to the chassis being narrower on the Gen X vs. the CK3.2.... particularly around the side-link area. The 3.2 had those little "Ear" peices where the rear tweak-spring mount was mounted on. They have redesigned how the tweak springs AND the o-ring moun ton the car and because of this the car is not nearly as wide in this area. In my opinion this is one of the, if not the single best thing about he new car. It doesn't tweak as easily if at all and the o-ring doesn't bow the chassis like the 3.2 did.

This is why you aren't seeing the chassis rubbing now though.

Before throwing my setup on, you should look at the differences between ours first and maybe get some ideas to try befor eyou redo yours. In any case I hope you write yours down so you can go back to it easily just in case

With my setup I definitely did not have a lack of steering. Still though... I have a list of things I want to try for myself so I know what it feels like when I do it, even though I may already know what it does or is suppose to do to the car.

Also... just a few things bout my setup on the front-end. I need to recheck the front uptravel over ride-height. There is very little up-travel, but since I changed it at the track I need to recheck the exact number. I do know that there is a VERY little gap between the lower pivot ball and the bottom of the spindle block. We're talking a sliver, and yes they are even on both sides.

And my front camber is probably more like 1.25° as opposed to 1°. It isn't quite 1.5° but it is more than 1° and my gauge doesn't show in half or quarter degrees

I am curious to know how my setup works for you so don't forget to give an update when you get to try it

IMTK422

Slapmaster6000

Where will we be able to pick up the new front bumper.

Slapmaster6000

iTrader: (16)

I don't want to squat on Frank's thread, so you can go to www.slapmastertools.com for more info. BUT, my web guy hasn't updated the site with the new bumpers. I think I have a color sample here somewhere.... You guys can contact me through "contact Brian" tab. My email is getting spammed to death right now, so I am leaving that out. This is a cool car and that needs a cool bumper!

Brian

Quante

iTrader: (6)

Yep, The chassis is a lot less wide. With the CK it was almost impossible to make them not touch the carpet.
The rear roll center on the GenX is a lot lower as on the CK, I though that this could be my problem as well but I havent been playing with that yet.
Setup that worked best for me was the one from Blackstock, but then with white side springs. With the red ones the car had the tendency to slip out in the rear, especially after 5-6 minutes.
(oh yes, with me, first minutes the car is on rails, when the tire sauce begins to wear, front mid and exit steering is lost).

What I also noticed on my pro strut. Normally I would turn the kingpin until the springs hardly touch (unloaded...). This is at the end of the kingpin thread! I thought the suspension had gotten rid of the spacers but not anyway... I still need to spacer the front up to have a little up travel when loaded (0.25mm instead of 1-1.5mm).
I have this with both my suspensions.


I'll get back to you how this setup works for me.

CShearburn

iTrader: (5)

Yes, I didn't even think about that. The CK3.2 came with the higher roll center in the back which would give more steering. The Gen X comes standard with the low roll center kit. However, you shouldn't need the higher roll center to get the steering you want unless the track is REALLY lacking in bite. I guess if all else fails I don't see why you couldn't raise it some yourself. Probably not abad idea on a lower grip situation. I may even try it myself sometime.


What sauce are you using? Jack the Gripper? You shouldn't really have this issue with CRC Magentas. If you are only losing front grip at the end of the run, and are stuck with a certain sauce like Jack, then maybe try Grey's on the back. I don't know why, but in my experience anyway, compared to Pink or Magenta the Grey rears seem to start off with a push (lack of steering) and then start coming around as the run goes on. This is with magentas on the front too.

You shouldn't need shims (spacers) at all for this front end assuming you are using the newer springs (.45, .50, .55, etc). Make sure you have the shorter (newer) springs as I mentioned and not the older style. The wire diameter is the same but the newer ones are shorter. Even still, I've had the older ones on and didnt have a problem

I'll check tonight how much travel my front end has and let you know. I'm not using any shims though.

Renracer

iTrader: (1)

Can anyone help me out with the side springs and how to set them to start with. I have tried to set them just touching but not to sure I am getting them right then I am not to sure on the pre load

Mr. Bubby

iTrader: (6)

Well, to start out with, what you're really gonna need is a tweak board to set those tricky side springs correctly. MIP makes one still (I think), or I'm sure that somebody at the track is gonna have one. What I usually start off with is what you're doing, screw 'em in till they just hit the chassis, then I usually give each spring one full turn more, or maybe two, then put it on the tweak board and see how far off from level the car is. Then start turning the springs in or out on either side and see what it does to the level. Keep playing around with it till you get that bubble to be perfectly level. Voila. You've got it.
Just remember when you are using the tweak system make sure that the rear of the car is on the stationary part of the tweak system (the part without the bubble). And the front of the car is on the bubble side.
You can actually do this without a tweak system, but it is soooooooo much easier with. Hope this helps

JB_catricala

iTrader: (1)

hey guys i just thought i would post my setup from the halloween classic at the gate.

front
50 mm
with 5000 on king pin
.5 droop
10 caster
2 shim in back
short pivot balls
new brace
3.5 mm ride height
jaco purple 41.5mm

middle/rear
red center spring
25 oil in shock
20 000 in the tubes
white side springs
1 mm of droop
jaco magenta 43.5mm
3.5mm

co27
f brush-full
green/green
rollout at 44 mm

parma speed 8 lwt
about a 6 foot turn radis

i also ran this setup at vegas and it was very good.

Scottrik

iTrader: (261)

Thanks for posting that up!

Guessing you mean "diameter" rather than radius? A 12 foot circle wouldn't get turned around inside a 10 foot lane, much less a 6-8 foot one.

I'm heading to larger circles myself (though more like 4-5 feet). It seems to me there's an "emergency" switch/button on my tx (M11) somewhere that can be set so you press it and get more steering in case you get in trouble then when it's released it goes back to "race" setting. Gotta find that...

bigb11

iTrader: (59)

What was your spur/pinion sizes?

Johnny Carey

iTrader: (10)

Your my hero.