Xray T2'007
#3016
The carpet chassis was the BMI chassis. I ran all screws in the bottom, and I removed the front rear, and rear front set of screws on the top deck. (hope that doesn't sound too confusing).
On the EU right now I'm running all screws in except the bottom screws that are in the cut out area (that screw into the bottom of the bulkhead).
If you plan on running a spool, just run a diff really tight. Unless you can absolutely keep the car off the boards. A tight diff can save your car a bit because if you stuff a pipe, then energy can "diff out" to the other side of the car. Instead, if you are on power with a spool (or one way also) you can more easily bend your dog bones, our break the outdrive savers.
On the EU right now I'm running all screws in except the bottom screws that are in the cut out area (that screw into the bottom of the bulkhead).
If you plan on running a spool, just run a diff really tight. Unless you can absolutely keep the car off the boards. A tight diff can save your car a bit because if you stuff a pipe, then energy can "diff out" to the other side of the car. Instead, if you are on power with a spool (or one way also) you can more easily bend your dog bones, our break the outdrive savers.
#3017
#3020
No. I was telling him that if he wanted to run a spool in the front, he is better off running a very tight diff to save breaking parts if he isn't super super clean. A one way and spool have a tendancy to bend drive shafts and break the outdrive savers more easily than a tight diff. Because a tight diff is STILL a diff, and will allow much of the energy to spin the tire that isn't in contact with the board or pipe. If he wants to run a one way though, then he'll just have to run a one-way.
This doesn't affect the REAR diff in any way.
Diff-out is a term used to describe when say for instance you are exiting a corner and the chassis is leaned to one side. When you get all over the throttle, the inside tires can spin. Happens more in higher power situations like 19t or open mod. There is probably a more specific term for this though.
#3022
If you can slip the diff, its too loose...
Its probably too tight if you can rotate the motor when you try to turn one wheel.
Other than that, its mostly feel. I wouldn't say there is one particular setting that is best. It depends on the track condition and your set up.
But as far as running a front diff instead of a spool, get it set tight enough that you DO rotate the motor when you turn one wheel, then back it off just a pinch (just so you don't rotate the motor). I know thats a vague statement, which depends on the particular motor and gearing, and is probably more difficult to get the right feel with a BL motor which has very little drag.
#3024
Tech Master
iTrader: (4)
If you can slip the diff, its too loose...
Its probably too tight if you can rotate the motor when you try to turn one wheel.
Other than that, its mostly feel. I wouldn't say there is one particular setting that is best. It depends on the track condition and your set up.
But as far as running a front diff instead of a spool, get it set tight enough that you DO rotate the motor when you turn one wheel, then back it off just a pinch (just so you don't rotate the motor). I know thats a vague statement, which depends on the particular motor and gearing, and is probably more difficult to get the right feel with a BL motor which has very little drag.
Its probably too tight if you can rotate the motor when you try to turn one wheel.
Other than that, its mostly feel. I wouldn't say there is one particular setting that is best. It depends on the track condition and your set up.
But as far as running a front diff instead of a spool, get it set tight enough that you DO rotate the motor when you turn one wheel, then back it off just a pinch (just so you don't rotate the motor). I know thats a vague statement, which depends on the particular motor and gearing, and is probably more difficult to get the right feel with a BL motor which has very little drag.
#3026
I have mine set probably just a touch tighter than what Korey has described. But, as he says, it should not slip.
But, yes, it should always be a little looser in the rear than the front.
But, yes, it should always be a little looser in the rear than the front.
#3027
Tech Rookie
since we are into the diff topic..... I am new to on road and xray for the most part previously ran 1/10 off road.. anyhow the problem i am experienceing with my t2 007 is lag when i stand on the throttle from a stop.. upon further investigation the center of the diffs (where the belt rides) will spin before the tires. not sure if this makes any sense but if i were to hold the car against something and hit the throttle i can watch the belts run but the tires dont turn.
I am running a mamba 7700 with a 24t pinion to a 109t? (stock) spur. I know thats alot of power but i am having trouble transferring it to the ground !! can the diffs be tightened ? how there is nothing in the manual that i can see. will this affect my cornering?? what are my options? it takes half of the back straight before the full power becomes noticeable.
any help appreciated thanks in advance .
I am running a mamba 7700 with a 24t pinion to a 109t? (stock) spur. I know thats alot of power but i am having trouble transferring it to the ground !! can the diffs be tightened ? how there is nothing in the manual that i can see. will this affect my cornering?? what are my options? it takes half of the back straight before the full power becomes noticeable.
any help appreciated thanks in advance .
#3028
since we are into the diff topic..... I am new to on road and xray for the most part previously ran 1/10 off road.. anyhow the problem i am experienceing with my t2 007 is lag when i stand on the throttle from a stop.. upon further investigation the center of the diffs (where the belt rides) will spin before the tires. not sure if this makes any sense but if i were to hold the car against something and hit the throttle i can watch the belts run but the tires dont turn.
I am running a mamba 7700 with a 24t pinion to a 109t? (stock) spur. I know thats alot of power but i am having trouble transferring it to the ground !! can the diffs be tightened ? how there is nothing in the manual that i can see. will this affect my cornering?? what are my options? it takes half of the back straight before the full power becomes noticeable.
any help appreciated thanks in advance .
I am running a mamba 7700 with a 24t pinion to a 109t? (stock) spur. I know thats alot of power but i am having trouble transferring it to the ground !! can the diffs be tightened ? how there is nothing in the manual that i can see. will this affect my cornering?? what are my options? it takes half of the back straight before the full power becomes noticeable.
any help appreciated thanks in advance .
In the diff outdrive, there is a small hole. You will see iy between the bulkheads. Rotate that hole so you can insert a small allen wrench through the hole (There is the head of a screw with a hole that must be lined up, do this by holding one tire and rotating the other).
Now, with the allen wrench all the way through the hole, hold the wrench in place and rotate the SHORT end of the outdrive by rotating the tire; CLOCKWISE. In the rear of the car, this is the RIGHT side.
#3030
You should not be able to slip the diff either way.
A diff in ANY car should NEVER slip.
A diff in ANY car should NEVER slip.