Pantoura, 1/10 Pan Car, 2S LiPo, Brushless, Tips and Tricks.
12-05-2006, 08:44 AM
#631
Just as an FYI regarding the CF bottom plates - we found them to be touchy. If you don't hit stuff, they're great. . .but then who among us doth not hitteth stuff? 
we found them to delaminate really subtly and it was hard to see it but the car would go somewhat unpredictable - kinda like a T-Bar that had gone soft. You know? We made a recommendation and he said he'd look into it - there is one hole that has very little space outside of it and we believed that was where the delamination was starting - but I moved to the big cars right about then so. . . he very well may have fixed it. . .
Of course, I was known as "THE" stress test. . . ROFL If I couldn't break it, it couldn't be broke!
we found them to delaminate really subtly and it was hard to see it but the car would go somewhat unpredictable - kinda like a T-Bar that had gone soft. You know? We made a recommendation and he said he'd look into it - there is one hole that has very little space outside of it and we believed that was where the delamination was starting - but I moved to the big cars right about then so. . . he very well may have fixed it. . .
Of course, I was known as "THE" stress test. . . ROFL
If I couldn't break it, it couldn't be broke!
12-05-2006, 09:28 AM
#632
I know that hole you speak of. I had my rear pod bottom plate break there on a severe crash. I carry a spare plate. I have a spare for the new car as well. I did not notice any delamination there. They really need to make a new right side pod plate that is a little longer at the base to leave more room around this hole.
John
John
Last edited by John Stranahan; 12-07-2006 at 01:42 PM.
12-05-2006, 01:38 PM
#633
Wide Pantoura (Stranahan edition)
Here is a picture of the front of the chassis. These are the Front Associated RC18T shocks. They are a little bit shorter than the rear shocks that I photographed previously. They are a better match to the location. Almost Done.
MurdockRC. Installed are the Murdock in line front axles. Murdock non Progressive large diameter springs with two thin blue spring buckets. Repolished Murdock king pins. The ride height will be good with one washer under the lower A-arms.
Powell chassis, top and bottom rear pod plates.
IRS rear D-drive (d shaped diff ring) wide pan axle, left hub and right hub. There are still some blue ones available at Stormer, none at IRS. IRS ceramic diff balls and rings. Associated or IRS diff lube. IRS blue Aluminum lowered pod side plates.
Associated superspeedway spacers next to the main axle bearings. I found blue ones. Associated Factory Team TC3 center shock. Associated Team edition blue steering turnbuckles RC10L. Mostly 3/8 and 5/16 steel Associated Flat head 4-40 screws and button head screws. 8 4-40 x 3/8 socket head cap screws to secure the back wheels. One set of 4mm RC18T ball studs. One pair of Aluminum blue Rear RC18T shocks for rear side shocks, Gold Springs. RC10L nerf wings. I plan to put the body mounts on these. Associated TC4 Servo Mounts used as Lower shock Mounts. I used a large countersink bit to put a hollow under the ball of the lower front shock mounts. The lower end of the shock is completely protected by chassis. I will put some kind of soft bumper on the car later. Team RC12 blue support posts.
CRC rear pod side links, Low roll center kit. CRC Pantoura knife blade and Battery top brace. You need two of the 2 x 56 ballstuds that CRC uses on their side dampeners. I had these left over. The ball is the same size as the 4 mm balls studs on the Mini-T shocks. the threads are smaller so you can drill a smaller hole in your upper A-arm. CRC bagged 1/12 scale front end. There seems to be more clearance in the eyelets on this part than my previous front end.
Losi JRXXS steel female ball studs everywhere possible with one thin Belleville washer from the Losi diff screw under each ball stud for strength.
More details on request.
John
Here is a picture of the front of the chassis. These are the Front Associated RC18T shocks. They are a little bit shorter than the rear shocks that I photographed previously. They are a better match to the location. Almost Done.
MurdockRC. Installed are the Murdock in line front axles. Murdock non Progressive large diameter springs with two thin blue spring buckets. Repolished Murdock king pins. The ride height will be good with one washer under the lower A-arms.
Powell chassis, top and bottom rear pod plates.
IRS rear D-drive (d shaped diff ring) wide pan axle, left hub and right hub. There are still some blue ones available at Stormer, none at IRS. IRS ceramic diff balls and rings. Associated or IRS diff lube. IRS blue Aluminum lowered pod side plates.
Associated superspeedway spacers next to the main axle bearings. I found blue ones. Associated Factory Team TC3 center shock. Associated Team edition blue steering turnbuckles RC10L. Mostly 3/8 and 5/16 steel Associated Flat head 4-40 screws and button head screws. 8 4-40 x 3/8 socket head cap screws to secure the back wheels. One set of 4mm RC18T ball studs. One pair of Aluminum blue Rear RC18T shocks for rear side shocks, Gold Springs. RC10L nerf wings. I plan to put the body mounts on these. Associated TC4 Servo Mounts used as Lower shock Mounts. I used a large countersink bit to put a hollow under the ball of the lower front shock mounts. The lower end of the shock is completely protected by chassis. I will put some kind of soft bumper on the car later. Team RC12 blue support posts.
CRC rear pod side links, Low roll center kit. CRC Pantoura knife blade and Battery top brace. You need two of the 2 x 56 ballstuds that CRC uses on their side dampeners. I had these left over. The ball is the same size as the 4 mm balls studs on the Mini-T shocks. the threads are smaller so you can drill a smaller hole in your upper A-arm. CRC bagged 1/12 scale front end. There seems to be more clearance in the eyelets on this part than my previous front end.
Losi JRXXS steel female ball studs everywhere possible with one thin Belleville washer from the Losi diff screw under each ball stud for strength.
More details on request.
John
Last edited by John Stranahan; 12-07-2006 at 01:40 PM.
12-05-2006, 07:27 PM
#634
Novak-GTB Speed Control, Novak Velocity 3.5R brushless motor.
Side to side balance is good like this. If I was running just one LiPo battery always, I would move the speed control down and offset the battery to one side. I like the way the Peugeot body handles with the speed control up high. I gained some weight in the front converting to a wide chassis, but car weight is lower. Test tomorrow maybe. I have used just the center section of a RC10L servo saver with the Losi Female ball studs mounted low. I don't know if this is going to work. Depends on how much steering throw I need.
John
Side to side balance is good like this. If I was running just one LiPo battery always, I would move the speed control down and offset the battery to one side. I like the way the Peugeot body handles with the speed control up high. I gained some weight in the front converting to a wide chassis, but car weight is lower. Test tomorrow maybe. I have used just the center section of a RC10L servo saver with the Losi Female ball studs mounted low. I don't know if this is going to work. Depends on how much steering throw I need.
John
Last edited by John Stranahan; 12-06-2006 at 10:28 AM.
12-05-2006, 07:29 PM
#635
that is a mean ride for sure.. will be curious to see what mlp's looks like/handles like.. the one shot i saw of marty's had saddle packs in the back which might be nice for lower grip situations.. would be nice to have the option to run either way...
12-05-2006, 07:32 PM
#636
Originally Posted by John Stranahan
Novak-GTB Speed Control, Novak Velocity 3.5R brushless motor.
Side to side balance is good like this. If I was running just one LiPo battery always, I would move the speed control down and offset the battery to one side. I like the way the Peugeot body handles with the speed control up high. I gained some weight in the front. Test tomorrow maybe. I have used just the center section of a RC10L servo saver with the Losi Female ball studs mounted low. I don't know if this is going to work. Depends on how much steering throw I need.
John
Side to side balance is good like this. If I was running just one LiPo battery always, I would move the speed control down and offset the battery to one side. I like the way the Peugeot body handles with the speed control up high. I gained some weight in the front. Test tomorrow maybe. I have used just the center section of a RC10L servo saver with the Losi Female ball studs mounted low. I don't know if this is going to work. Depends on how much steering throw I need.
John
I would move the servo to the other side (further in the front) and reverse it and install the gtb where the servo is now , that way everything is as low as possible and in center. just my 2 cents , but it looks good
12-05-2006, 07:38 PM
#637
You can run Saddle pack Lipo's with this car as long as they are not too wide. They can be considerably thicker than this Orion Avionics LiPo. I am anxious to test a new front suspension for this car as well. In the meantime this car can be built right now.
The car handles better with the speed control up high when using the low GTP bodies. It makes the car more supple and forgiving. I had no serious driving errors in my last race. I have it up high because I run two batteries in the Nitro Main with it.
John
The car handles better with the speed control up high when using the low GTP bodies. It makes the car more supple and forgiving. I had no serious driving errors in my last race. I have it up high because I run two batteries in the Nitro Main with it.
John
Last edited by John Stranahan; 12-05-2006 at 08:16 PM.
12-05-2006, 07:41 PM
#638
Originally Posted by John Stranahan
You can run Saddle pack Lipo's with this car as long as they are not too wide. They can be considerably thicker than this Orion Avionics LiPo. I anxious an to test a new front suspension for this car as well. In the meantime this car can be built right now.
The car handles better with the speed control up high when using the low GTP bodies. It makes the car more supple and forgiving. I had no serious driving errors in my last race. I have it up high because I run two batteries in the Nitro Main with it.
John
The car handles better with the speed control up high when using the low GTP bodies. It makes the car more supple and forgiving. I had no serious driving errors in my last race. I have it up high because I run two batteries in the Nitro Main with it.
John
12-05-2006, 07:42 PM
#639
Marcos- the car cannot take any more weight in the front. It is 1 oz heavy up front as is. It would be better to move the speed control back and move the battery to the side if you want things lower. It drives better with things higher. I am not kidding.
The pic shows the reason I mounted the speed control up high.
john
The pic shows the reason I mounted the speed control up high.
john
Last edited by John Stranahan; 12-05-2006 at 08:07 PM.
12-05-2006, 07:44 PM
#640
Originally Posted by John Stranahan
Marcos- the car cannot take any more weight in the front. It is 1 oz heavy up front as is. It would be better to move the speed control back and move the battery to the side if you want things lower. It drives better with things higher. I am not kidding.
john
john
12-05-2006, 08:01 PM
#641
Mounting the Servo Flat
I used JRXS Servo Mounts. These are held on by one screw and a pin. Some people grind that pin off, but you really need two points of support on this kind of servo mount to keep the servo from squirming around on the mounts. This is how to drill those extra holes in the right place. Install the mounts on the servo. Put some lipstick on the two pins in the servo mounts. Install the servo loosely with 1/2 inch screws. Now push the servo down and the lipstick will make contact right where you need to drill two 1/8 inch holes. Center punch the holes and drill on a drill press if you have one to keep the drill from walking on this material. Firmly back the chassis with a board for a good finish on the bottom side.
Powell Chassis Fit and Finish
Excellent. Well machined. Perfect countersinks. Excellent appearing material top and bottom. The screw holes for the servo were in the perfect position and there were only two. I liked this a lot.
Sphere Comp Speed Control
There is no reason for my change to the GTB speed control. I just want to test it. The LRP sphere comp has worked flawlessly once I removed the switch. The switch shut it off a couple of times after a lot of use. No thermal shutdows even in August heat with this type of 2 wheel drive car.
John
I used JRXS Servo Mounts. These are held on by one screw and a pin. Some people grind that pin off, but you really need two points of support on this kind of servo mount to keep the servo from squirming around on the mounts. This is how to drill those extra holes in the right place. Install the mounts on the servo. Put some lipstick on the two pins in the servo mounts. Install the servo loosely with 1/2 inch screws. Now push the servo down and the lipstick will make contact right where you need to drill two 1/8 inch holes. Center punch the holes and drill on a drill press if you have one to keep the drill from walking on this material. Firmly back the chassis with a board for a good finish on the bottom side.
Powell Chassis Fit and Finish
Excellent. Well machined. Perfect countersinks. Excellent appearing material top and bottom. The screw holes for the servo were in the perfect position and there were only two. I liked this a lot.
Sphere Comp Speed Control
There is no reason for my change to the GTB speed control. I just want to test it. The LRP sphere comp has worked flawlessly once I removed the switch. The switch shut it off a couple of times after a lot of use. No thermal shutdows even in August heat with this type of 2 wheel drive car.
John
Last edited by John Stranahan; 12-06-2006 at 10:30 AM.
12-05-2006, 08:39 PM
#642
John, AWESOME car! I'm highly impressed with your engineering and yet the simplicity of your end design. Those front shocks are VERY well thought out and engineered and I really like them!
A note of caution about the nerf bars. We dumped them completely because as soon as someone hit them, one or the other bar (front or rear) would break and then they would pivot back and dig into the tire, ruining it. If you want to use a nerf bar - use the solid carbon ones - they don't break like that so they don't dig into the rear foamy. . .
GREAT use of the servo mount, btw. I saw that before I read your description and LOLerd! That's engineering - take something designed for something else and adapt it perfectly to your own use!
Kudos!
A note of caution about the nerf bars. We dumped them completely because as soon as someone hit them, one or the other bar (front or rear) would break and then they would pivot back and dig into the tire, ruining it. If you want to use a nerf bar - use the solid carbon ones - they don't break like that so they don't dig into the rear foamy. . .
GREAT use of the servo mount, btw. I saw that before I read your description and LOLerd! That's engineering - take something designed for something else and adapt it perfectly to your own use!
Kudos!
12-05-2006, 10:16 PM
#643
Boomer-Thanks. My thought on the Nerf wing was to support the body right near the side where I would gain the most body stiffness from the body mount. It worked quite well. I have the body installed now. When you push on the rear wing the body side does not warp all up any more. I have graphite wings but they are short for the Narrow car. I think I will just try these until I ruin a tire. I would have to custom make some solid graphite ones from expensive material.
After some study it looks like my body post which will remain attached to the body and to the unbroken end. This will keep the pivoting end off the tire. Wish me good luck.
Weights
Complete 39 ounces
Rear weighs 3 ounces more than the front with body on. I have installed a RC10L front bumper which is included. This is with my Orion Avionics 3200 mA-h LiPo
John
After some study it looks like my body post which will remain attached to the body and to the unbroken end. This will keep the pivoting end off the tire. Wish me good luck.
Weights
Complete 39 ounces
Rear weighs 3 ounces more than the front with body on. I have installed a RC10L front bumper which is included. This is with my Orion Avionics 3200 mA-h LiPo
John
Last edited by John Stranahan; 12-05-2006 at 11:02 PM.
12-05-2006, 10:58 PM
#644
Here is a pic of the rear body mount, Front Bumper, Front Body mount location. Those rear tires are the Jaco Green Spec tires. They have two textures of foam. They worked really well with the car in lightweight trim.
Neither the Nerf Wings nor the front bumper worked out well on this car after a test. I have replace the nerf wings with solid graphite shorter pieces from the pantoura. I have trimmed the ends off the bumper for now.
John
Neither the Nerf Wings nor the front bumper worked out well on this car after a test. I have replace the nerf wings with solid graphite shorter pieces from the pantoura. I have trimmed the ends off the bumper for now.
John
Last edited by John Stranahan; 12-09-2006 at 07:50 AM.
12-06-2006, 08:37 AM
#645
Your hope is that the little straight piece does not flip back into the tire. Aren't the solid woven carbon nerf wings the same size (or could you just cut a couple?) - they would be less prone to breakage and destroying the foam.
That being said, good luck, and great friggin job dude!
That being said, good luck, and great friggin job dude!