Pantoura, 1/10 Pan Car, 2S LiPo, Brushless, Tips and Tricks.
11-10-2006, 02:10 PM
#526
Corally Jack the Gripper is in stock at Stormerhobbies.com and at CorallyUSA.com. 20 minutes.
Swaybar Track Test
It looks like the .060 sway bar is going to tune in with a one size weaker (purple) progressive spring. The green was too soft and increased steering grip too much. I was running the heaviest silver spring before the sway bar addition. This purple spring should be ideal on the straight as I have tested it previously. There was some work going on on the track so I did not give it a full test. I ran the new Peugeot heavy .030 body (stenciled med. on the body). Nice an quiet. Good straight line stability on the straight with stock side dams. Legal spoiler. No rear wing flexing down. I did leave quite a bit more side material aft of the wheel and in the wheel arches to act as a side dam and to help support the wing. My rear end is narrow enough(230 mm) to run inside the body. This is similar to my setup with the Nissan 300 Z body rear arches.
Swaybar Track Test
It looks like the .060 sway bar is going to tune in with a one size weaker (purple) progressive spring. The green was too soft and increased steering grip too much. I was running the heaviest silver spring before the sway bar addition. This purple spring should be ideal on the straight as I have tested it previously. There was some work going on on the track so I did not give it a full test. I ran the new Peugeot heavy .030 body (stenciled med. on the body). Nice an quiet. Good straight line stability on the straight with stock side dams. Legal spoiler. No rear wing flexing down. I did leave quite a bit more side material aft of the wheel and in the wheel arches to act as a side dam and to help support the wing. My rear end is narrow enough(230 mm) to run inside the body. This is similar to my setup with the Nissan 300 Z body rear arches.
11-11-2006, 04:06 PM
#527
Sway Bar (antiroll bar) final test
Well as they say in Texas Politics. It was like "putting lipstick on the pig". The sway bar worked well. It looks really nice. It tuned up perfectly with a purple spring, but now my car is a little heavier from dual batterries and it caused front bottoming on the bumps and the resultant nose lift and blowovers. I paint the 8-32 suspension screw heads, which stick out just a little, with a black marker to see if I get new scratches or not. I removed the sway bar put the heavier silver springs back on and returned to normal. I will just take the smooth line on the straight. This hampers my ability to pass there, but the sweeper is a good place also. I await a better front suspension. I had the Peugeot body installed.
I am leaning more toward Pro-ten-Hollands view that some front damping would be desirable but in my case just to cure this problem on the bumps. I don't seem to need front damping anywhere else on the track. I did try two flavors of goo on the front kingpins with no luck as well. What a mess. Note that I found Associated Green Slime for sale at Tower Hobbies for any guys looking for dampener lube.
The car was plenty fast. We had about 6 Nitro cars running today. Lin was faster with the 1/8 scale. He qualified first at our last race, Robert gave me a good run with a 1/10 scale Nitro. Track was loose.
Disclaimer
You don't have to do much to a Pantoura to get it to run well. I tinker with my car a lot because it is in my nature. Give the pan car a try. Purple front, Pink Rear, Jack the Gripper for 20 minutes. Other hints in the first few pages of the thread.
Jaco Pinks, Car width.
More on widths. I ran Jaco rears today. Pink Jacos grip slightly less than pink GRP's. Might be good on sugar water. They also knock 5 mm off of your rear width.
HPI sells a couple of tapered bodies that are wider in the back than the front that may fit the narrow pan car well. One I believe is the Murcielago.
Well as they say in Texas Politics. It was like "putting lipstick on the pig". The sway bar worked well. It looks really nice. It tuned up perfectly with a purple spring, but now my car is a little heavier from dual batterries and it caused front bottoming on the bumps and the resultant nose lift and blowovers. I paint the 8-32 suspension screw heads, which stick out just a little, with a black marker to see if I get new scratches or not. I removed the sway bar put the heavier silver springs back on and returned to normal. I will just take the smooth line on the straight. This hampers my ability to pass there, but the sweeper is a good place also. I await a better front suspension. I had the Peugeot body installed.
I am leaning more toward Pro-ten-Hollands view that some front damping would be desirable but in my case just to cure this problem on the bumps. I don't seem to need front damping anywhere else on the track. I did try two flavors of goo on the front kingpins with no luck as well. What a mess. Note that I found Associated Green Slime for sale at Tower Hobbies for any guys looking for dampener lube.
The car was plenty fast. We had about 6 Nitro cars running today. Lin was faster with the 1/8 scale. He qualified first at our last race, Robert gave me a good run with a 1/10 scale Nitro. Track was loose.
Disclaimer
You don't have to do much to a Pantoura to get it to run well. I tinker with my car a lot because it is in my nature. Give the pan car a try. Purple front, Pink Rear, Jack the Gripper for 20 minutes. Other hints in the first few pages of the thread.
Jaco Pinks, Car width.
More on widths. I ran Jaco rears today. Pink Jacos grip slightly less than pink GRP's. Might be good on sugar water. They also knock 5 mm off of your rear width.
HPI sells a couple of tapered bodies that are wider in the back than the front that may fit the narrow pan car well. One I believe is the Murcielago.
11-11-2006, 04:23 PM
#528
John: what do I need to convert the Pantoura to wide pan car? Rear axle, probably IRS, Corally pinions, and some kind of front extension plates for front end(I could get them made)? Also, what track width are you runnin in the front? I like the narrow set up, as its a more like the TC cars that run around here, however, I would like to have parts for 230mm(wide) pan car, instead of paying $240 for a C10X. I figure the IRS wide axle set should run about $60, body $25, and $5 for the front extension plates. That's about $90, and it should work just as well as a standard wide pan car kit- but I'm just guessing- will need your expertise to confirm.
11-11-2006, 04:28 PM
#529
CCT & AE 10L3T
Some notes about the track width of Corally CCT and AE 10L3T- the Corally CCT rear axles are wider than the 10L3T. The CCT with Jaco tires, puts you about 198mm in rear, while the 10L3T is about 192mm with same Jaco tires. If you run Corally CCT with Jaco tires, you'll have to use 200mm bodies, unless you use Corally tires/wheels, which are about 5mm shorter than Jaco tires.
11-11-2006, 05:16 PM
#530
Originally Posted by yyhayyim
John: what do I need to convert the Pantoura to wide pan car? Rear axle, probably IRS, Corally pinions, and some kind of front extension plates for front end(I could get them made)? .
11-11-2006, 09:48 PM
#532
I hope its on an oval as you will find yourself chasing your tail more than anything on a road course with out reaaaally changing up the setup.
11-12-2006, 07:53 AM
#533
I have a spoiler and wing for it. I have already tested the body. I qualified second of 15 Nitro cars in the last race with it. It really works well with a wing and spoiler. I am going to test it as is, then add the spoiler then the wing.
John
John
11-12-2006, 02:53 PM
#534
Terrible Day- Pan car looses to Electric TC
Today was not a good day for the CCT. We went to run at another local track than the one we usually race on. The new track is larger, faster, and rougher and more pourous and abbraisive. Ran a few warn-up laps to make sure its OK, and it wasnt. It had terrible front push/understeering at this track. It was very fast on the straights, but could not get it to turn in as usual and for the first time had to actually use brakes to slow down and turn in to corners- before it was automatic, smooth, sharp steering and handling- now the edge was gone. The Yokomo MR4TC with Lipo and 3.5R and foam was running very well, and was set up very nicely for this track. My poor CCT just couldn' turn in at all, and I lost the leads I had in the turns. Ran with rear Jaco Pinks, and front Purples, with the softest Corally front springs. Tires never hooked up up front- after a few more runs, the CCT just stared to fall apart- loose axle- servo screws, servo mounts, front right axle, you name it. Lock-tightened everything, and went back to the track after a few tweaks here and there, and the car now had great turn-in as ususal to the left side, but terrible turning to the right?!?! Could figure it out, and its possible the right side front bearings broke, or some other mechanical problem. Just cant detech what it is, but something was defenitely wrong- extremely disppointed- its now even at 1 to 1- One for the Pan cars, and one for the Electric TC's. Next week we'll be there again- but this time with a more durable, stronger, pro-grade CRC Pantoura, or the trusty AE 10L3T. Will complete aseembly and testing of Pantoura tomorrow night, and will run at the Coral Springs, FL track again, but this time with Pink rears and front double-Pinks, which are softer and should give at bit more front grip/steering. If the car still understeers, I will try the AE 10L3T, which has the saddle pack style set up, and will like to see if it provides a bit better traction in this track.
11-12-2006, 03:08 PM
#535
yyh, I feel your pain... My Carpet Knife was FUBAR today.... I had a serious tweak and no idea how to fix it... I ended up running 1mm more spacers under one front arm than the other to get equal ride height.... Going to have to disassembe the entire car and measure everything....
11-12-2006, 04:22 PM
#536
Originally Posted by vtl1180ny
yyh, I feel your pain... My Carpet Knife was FUBAR today.... I had a serious tweak and no idea how to fix it... I ended up running 1mm more spacers under one front arm than the other to get equal ride height.... Going to have to disassembe the entire car and measure everything....
Sean
11-12-2006, 04:49 PM
#537
Originally Posted by STARSCREAM
maybe just measure the front springs and kingpin shims...thats probably the problem....unless you accidently have a lowered block on only one side....
Sean
Sean
11-12-2006, 07:46 PM
#538
My lower arms sagged up with use. I replaced just one side with a new one and had the same problem you did. Need to replace both probably.
john
McAllister body worked really well again. No problems on the straight. I think it is better for our track. No changes to the car. My pivot balls in the arms wore down in about 2 weeks after putting goo on the pins. The goo spreads and then collects dirt in the sockets. The dirt wears out the pivot balls. Mine were .025 smaller than the new one. This was not a gradual problem. All the sudden I had tons of slop. New Pivot balls fixed the problem for now.
john
McAllister body worked really well again. No problems on the straight. I think it is better for our track. No changes to the car. My pivot balls in the arms wore down in about 2 weeks after putting goo on the pins. The goo spreads and then collects dirt in the sockets. The dirt wears out the pivot balls. Mine were .025 smaller than the new one. This was not a gradual problem. All the sudden I had tons of slop. New Pivot balls fixed the problem for now.
Last edited by John Stranahan; 11-13-2006 at 08:11 AM.
11-13-2006, 08:40 AM
#539
Tech Rookie
If anybody interested I have a Pantoura main chassis
plate and the battery plate for sale for $50.00 us postal
money order's only. Good shape and no cracks or chips.
Note: that this only main chassis plate
and top battery plate. email [email protected]
Thanks
Kevin Johannes
plate and the battery plate for sale for $50.00 us postal
money order's only. Good shape and no cracks or chips.
Note: that this only main chassis plate
and top battery plate. email [email protected]
Thanks
Kevin Johannes
11-13-2006, 09:03 AM
#540
yyhayyim: check tire diameter left and right. A difference in diameter ususally causes this kind of problem.
For a temporary fix of play in the pivot balls of the front suspension put a piece of plastic bag around the ball before entering it into the lower arm.
For the long term get a set of aluminum pivot balls from Wolfe Racing or IRS.
(Part IRS376 from IRS) See here: http://www.teamirsrc.com/podplates.html
My front arms already last all year now, and are still without noticeable play.
For a temporary fix of play in the pivot balls of the front suspension put a piece of plastic bag around the ball before entering it into the lower arm.
For the long term get a set of aluminum pivot balls from Wolfe Racing or IRS.
(Part IRS376 from IRS) See here: http://www.teamirsrc.com/podplates.html
My front arms already last all year now, and are still without noticeable play.