Pantoura, 1/10 Pan Car, 2S LiPo, Brushless, Tips and Tricks.
08-30-2006, 06:05 PM
#31
Tel-thanks.
Chassis Dimensions
I have tires on the car now so I can measure the actual dimensions.
Width Rear 200 mm
Width Front 185 mm
Wheel Base 255 mm
this should help in body selection. I would get 200 mm size.
Chassis Dimensions
I have tires on the car now so I can measure the actual dimensions.
Width Rear 200 mm
Width Front 185 mm
Wheel Base 255 mm
this should help in body selection. I would get 200 mm size.
Last edited by John Stranahan; 08-30-2006 at 07:30 PM.
08-30-2006, 07:30 PM
#32
Weight
With Lipo battery, large high torue servo, Brushless motor, body and all
approximately 39 ounces. This compares to 53 (regulation) ounces for a touring car.
New Problem. I have huge chassis ride height at the front with 2.40 inch tires. I have installed all the spacers (aluminum washers) supplied with the kit under the RC12 lower suspension arms. Looks like I might need 1/4 inch or so of spacers. Is this normal. I know some of you guys cut the front tires a little shorter than that.
With Lipo battery, large high torue servo, Brushless motor, body and all
approximately 39 ounces. This compares to 53 (regulation) ounces for a touring car.
New Problem. I have huge chassis ride height at the front with 2.40 inch tires. I have installed all the spacers (aluminum washers) supplied with the kit under the RC12 lower suspension arms. Looks like I might need 1/4 inch or so of spacers. Is this normal. I know some of you guys cut the front tires a little shorter than that.
08-30-2006, 09:50 PM
#33
2.28 is probably as big as you want to run your tires. 2.25 is probably better.
08-30-2006, 09:54 PM
#34
Im not really sure what brands of 10th scale tires have non flanged bearing stops.. Your best bet is to get a set of 1/8th flanged.. i just picked up 10 1/8 flanged, 1/8 non flanged, and rear 1/4 axle bearings off ebay.. there is a seller, named rcboys. There bearing are around a buck each, and they have a 120 day waranty against defect.. Ive been in rc for 20 years, and these work just as well as any steel bearing ive used. for the price you cant beat it.. you can get a handfull, for the price of a single bearing elsewhere.. there shipping is super low as well..
08-31-2006, 01:36 AM
#35
add spacers underneath the front suspension arms untill you get the desired ride height. Anything works here. A friend of mine cut out some aluminum plates in different shapes for me to use. I have also used some of those white tamiya bushings cut open for easy insert and removal.
Go for approx 5mm ride height front and rear as as a starting point.
Go for approx 5mm ride height front and rear as as a starting point.
08-31-2006, 01:40 AM
#36
I run 6 cell mod pancar without any diff problems.
I simply put in a fresh outer diff bearing before every race that's important to me, and sand the diff rings when they get a groove that's too deep (about every month, and I run every week). I use IRS diff balls. They are inexpensive and last. No real need for ceramic diff balls.
I simply put in a fresh outer diff bearing before every race that's important to me, and sand the diff rings when they get a groove that's too deep (about every month, and I run every week). I use IRS diff balls. They are inexpensive and last. No real need for ceramic diff balls.
08-31-2006, 07:22 AM
#37
Thanks for the tips.
I had .5 inch ride height in the front. The car came with a 1/4 inch thick hard plastic bushing to go over the body support posts. These and the supplied aluminum washers worked well to space up the arms. I need longer screws for a better grip on the A-arm though. I have some flanged bearings ordered for the front wheel as well as spare thrust bearings. The car came with unflanged. Maybe they fit some 1/12 scale wheels as it is a 1/12 scale associated front end.
I found some Associated Aluminum #8 x 32 x 1.125 Screws at Stormer. These should be long enough. I had to cut them down. 3/4 inch screws are sufficiently long.
I had .5 inch ride height in the front. The car came with a 1/4 inch thick hard plastic bushing to go over the body support posts. These and the supplied aluminum washers worked well to space up the arms. I need longer screws for a better grip on the A-arm though. I have some flanged bearings ordered for the front wheel as well as spare thrust bearings. The car came with unflanged. Maybe they fit some 1/12 scale wheels as it is a 1/12 scale associated front end.
I found some Associated Aluminum #8 x 32 x 1.125 Screws at Stormer. These should be long enough. I had to cut them down. 3/4 inch screws are sufficiently long.
Last edited by John Stranahan; 09-22-2006 at 08:16 AM.
08-31-2006, 01:13 PM
#40
The Project is coming along. The body post spacers plus the included aluminum washers brought my front ride height to 5 mm. I do need the longer Associated screws. The Sphere brusheless speed control as well as a Novak Brushless speed control have arrived. I also have the GTB 6.5 motor now. I have the new sintered rotor for the GTB 4.5. Here is a picture of my generic Stiletto supercar body from HPI. I liked the wing although it does not have big side dams. There is a large assortment of spacers to change the height of the wing. I mounted it high. If moved it forward a bit for the start so as not to lift the front end at speed. Those yellow GRP wheels look really nice.
John
John
08-31-2006, 02:20 PM
#41
You can look inside many front tires and if you see little "pokey" things, they're set up for non-flanged bearings. No big - most don't have them and I never really liked using non-flanged bearings. . .harder to get out. 
The Associated guys that ran 12th with us at SoCal used some kinda green goo for their damper tubes. . .can't remember the name but it worked great.
The Associated guys that ran 12th with us at SoCal used some kinda green goo for their damper tubes. . .can't remember the name but it worked great.
08-31-2006, 02:43 PM
#42
Damper Lubes
Originally Posted by Boomer
You can look inside many front tires and if you see little "pokey" things, they're set up for non-flanged bearings. No big - most don't have them and I never really liked using non-flanged bearings. . .harder to get out.
The Associated guys that ran 12th with us at SoCal used some kinda green goo for their damper tubes. . .can't remember the name but it worked great.
The Associated guys that ran 12th with us at SoCal used some kinda green goo for their damper tubes. . .can't remember the name but it worked great.
I've heard that the Trinity Red Stuff or AE Stealth Diff Lube (in a squeeze tube) also works great in the damper tubes.........
Last edited by RED-LINE M03; 08-31-2006 at 02:43 PM. Reason: .
08-31-2006, 05:47 PM
#43
I'll keep my eye out for those other two types of goo.
Trial Fit of the Electronics.
I tried several combinations to get good corner weights. This setup resulted in perfect corner weights using a method I described on the Losi LCD thread. I can run the battery a little offset to the left. I used the receiver to balance the offset servo as the servo output should be centered.
I modified the servo mounts slightly by elongating the slot for the nut on both pieces. I used Associated Blue aluminum 8 x 32 axle nuts for spacers. I used two extra wing mounts for side stops on the batteries. I will remove one screw to take the battery out the left side. I need one more stop on the right rear of the battery. I used only existing chassis and top strap holes. I need just a little more clearance on the steering tie rods.
Things will be a little more square and neat when I tie in the battery and do the final install.
BTW the motor wires loop up high; they are not touching the damper. I left them pretty long to reduce punch.
Trial Fit of the Electronics.
I tried several combinations to get good corner weights. This setup resulted in perfect corner weights using a method I described on the Losi LCD thread. I can run the battery a little offset to the left. I used the receiver to balance the offset servo as the servo output should be centered.
I modified the servo mounts slightly by elongating the slot for the nut on both pieces. I used Associated Blue aluminum 8 x 32 axle nuts for spacers. I used two extra wing mounts for side stops on the batteries. I will remove one screw to take the battery out the left side. I need one more stop on the right rear of the battery. I used only existing chassis and top strap holes. I need just a little more clearance on the steering tie rods.
Things will be a little more square and neat when I tie in the battery and do the final install.
BTW the motor wires loop up high; they are not touching the damper. I left them pretty long to reduce punch.
Last edited by John Stranahan; 08-31-2006 at 05:57 PM.
