Getting bad cut from lathe
08-30-2006, 12:16 PM
#31
Originally Posted by James35
Tek Nickal,
Big Jim has been the authority on brushed motors, but even I was a little skeptical with I read Big Jim's post saying that even new carbide bits need to be sharpened!
So I followed his advice, paid $25 for a diamond hand file (220 grit) and learned how to sharpen the carbide bits. Here is how:
http://www.rccars.com/forums/attachment.php?postid=6980
Well, I used an 8X power eye magnifying glass to see what I was doing, and I got pretty good at it. Man what a difference! After sharpening the bit, the cuts look like a copper mirror. It's so easy and fast to sharpen the bits, that I do it ever as soon as 5-8 passes!
After I become proficient at it, I started putting brand new carbide bits up against my hand sharpened bits, and wouldn't you know it, Big Jim was right. The new bits definately have room for improvement and the powerful eye magnifying glass will makes it apparent.
Big Jim has been the authority on brushed motors, but even I was a little skeptical with I read Big Jim's post saying that even new carbide bits need to be sharpened!
So I followed his advice, paid $25 for a diamond hand file (220 grit) and learned how to sharpen the carbide bits. Here is how:
http://www.rccars.com/forums/attachment.php?postid=6980
Well, I used an 8X power eye magnifying glass to see what I was doing, and I got pretty good at it. Man what a difference! After sharpening the bit, the cuts look like a copper mirror. It's so easy and fast to sharpen the bits, that I do it ever as soon as 5-8 passes!
After I become proficient at it, I started putting brand new carbide bits up against my hand sharpened bits, and wouldn't you know it, Big Jim was right. The new bits definately have room for improvement and the powerful eye magnifying glass will makes it apparent.
08-30-2006, 12:56 PM
#32
Tech Regular
[QUOTE=swopemike]Stampede, depth dial thingy . . . now which whatchamajig is that doohicky you mean ? 
It's the wang janger on the dilly whack.
Seriously...when I got mine, the dial to move the bit closer to the com was to stiff. Couldn't make fine adjustments with it. For some reason, I would have to put pressure on the unit to get a good cut. There is a set screw to loosen or tighten the dial. I loosened it to my tastes and haven't had any problems as of yet.
It's the wang janger on the dilly whack.
Seriously...when I got mine, the dial to move the bit closer to the com was to stiff. Couldn't make fine adjustments with it. For some reason, I would have to put pressure on the unit to get a good cut. There is a set screw to loosen or tighten the dial. I loosened it to my tastes and haven't had any problems as of yet.
08-30-2006, 02:22 PM
#33
Welll...
Thanks for the links, but I've read them before and I'm still confused. 
Big Jim indicated 12V for a 55T motor and supposedly this lathe is supposed to run at 12V but... I've been told by others who cut a lot of comms to run 3-5V which seems too slow. Also despite spending probably an hour reading the lathe bit posts again, I still can't figure out whether I cut towards the tabs or away... I tried to go fishing again but caught nothing... if someone could just explain that would help. Really I'm not an idiot, but if it helps, you can pretend I am, 
I need the help, thanks. 
Big Jim indicated 12V for a 55T motor and supposedly this lathe is supposed to run at 12V but... I've been told by others who cut a lot of comms to run 3-5V which seems too slow. Also despite spending probably an hour reading the lathe bit posts again, I still can't figure out whether I cut towards the tabs or away... I tried to go fishing again but caught nothing... if someone could just explain that would help. Really I'm not an idiot, but if it helps, you can pretend I am, I need the help, thanks.
08-31-2006, 04:11 AM
#34
Tech Regular
I have always just hooked it up to my power supply, kept the speed setting at it's lowest, and cut towards the tabs. Cuts great every time. I get at least 13.2-.4 out of my power supply at all times.
08-31-2006, 07:51 AM
#36
I start on the right side of the comm (but not at the edge), cut towards the tabs, then bring it back to the right side all the way off the end of the comm.
This is for a left hand cutting bit.
The comm should spinning in an upward motion at the point it hits the bit.
Hope that helps.
Paul
This is for a left hand cutting bit.
The comm should spinning in an upward motion at the point it hits the bit.
Hope that helps.
Paul
08-31-2006, 09:04 AM
#37
Thanks and Left Hand means....
Thanks that clears up the Volts question Vortex, now I understand why I got 2 different answers. I thought 5V was too slow to mill properly on my Autolathe.
Left hand bit, does that that mean that, looking down, with bit properly positioned just above the centerline on an upturning comm on the lathe, the cutting point is on the left side ?
Next motor overhaul session I'll put all this to work and see how it goes.
Thanks.
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Somebody always gets called "stupid", must be my turn again this year.
Left hand bit, does that that mean that, looking down, with bit properly positioned just above the centerline on an upturning comm on the lathe, the cutting point is on the left side ?
Next motor overhaul session I'll put all this to work and see how it goes.
Thanks.
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
Somebody always gets called "stupid", must be my turn again this year.
08-31-2006, 09:53 AM
#38
Hi Maby a little off topic but have any of u guys used/uses a EAGLE RACING diamond tip' just i am needing a new bit for my lath and the eagle bit is the cheapest. also will this bit fit a hudy lath??
Thanks.
Thanks.
08-31-2006, 10:58 AM
#39
yes.
Picture of Left Hand Bit: http://www.teambrood.com/catalog/pro...roducts_id=643
Right Hand Bit:
http://www.teambrood.com/catalog/pro...roducts_id=644
Which lathe are you using? Then somebody can then tell you if it's a left or right handed lathe.
Paul
Picture of Left Hand Bit: http://www.teambrood.com/catalog/pro...roducts_id=643
Right Hand Bit:
http://www.teambrood.com/catalog/pro...roducts_id=644
Which lathe are you using? Then somebody can then tell you if it's a left or right handed lathe.
Paul
08-31-2006, 11:58 AM
#40
Lathe Type
Tubaboy, I have the Integy AutoLathe the one that has the automatic feed and comes in that nice hard case. When you start feeding to the left from the end of the comm towards the tabs it goes to the preset point (near the tabs but not on them if you set it right) and returns all the way to the right if you let it. It doesn't auto return left again. For this reason I assumed you were supposed to cut right to left but since it returns automatically that a return pass left to right was ok also ? Actually the first cut right to left is worse than the return cut which seems to clean things up much better.
I usually don't get the quality cut I would expect although when I had the pressure just right I sometimes get a gem quality cut, very smooth. And I suspected my diamond had a problem but like I said per the 100x scope it looks quite perfect.
Nice rainy day here in WV, good day to cut some comms tonight....
I usually don't get the quality cut I would expect although when I had the pressure just right I sometimes get a gem quality cut, very smooth. And I suspected my diamond had a problem but like I said per the 100x scope it looks quite perfect.
Nice rainy day here in WV, good day to cut some comms tonight....
09-01-2006, 08:46 AM
#41
Tech Fanatic
Remember the less material you take off the better the cut,I've found that 4.5 volts is what cuts best on my Fantom lathe and it's what is recommened in the directions anyway,generally one notch is .001 I use a half of a notch and get great cuts,I usually make two or three passes on the last cut to clean up the com,my cuts come out looking like a CD which is what Big Jim recommended I believe.
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