Glad to see you still have on-road on your mind.:D

Interesting to see he needed to add weight to the esc/left side of the car.

Today I found this interesting website http://www.racingsportscars.com/type.../F1%20GTR.html
Here you can see all of the races where the F1 GTR was used including informations on chassis#, drivers, teams, results and others. Also maybe you can see some livery you never saw before. As you can see here there were 2 different Gulf designs but just chassis# 12 and 15 are sporting the real Gulf design in my opinion.

Well if you want driving a F1 GTR you have to spend about one million Euros, if you ever find someone who wants selling one. :D
There are people who own 2 or 3 of them but all in all there were just 28 chassis made.

The F1 GTR also would be my dreamcar but as I have not that one million Euros I bought two 1:18 diecast cars from UT Models what were made some years ago. They look pretty good, of course one is the #12R Gulf Racing car the other the #03R red/white one from West Competition. :)

Haven't read this thread for a while as imperial screw just dont work at my place. I just curious what's going on recently and click in... found out...

Gosh, TryHard is doing JRXS-R? Ok maybe I need to read through some pages...


And than I read there is metric screw set for JRXS-R? How did that work? imperial thread with metric hex hole? Bcz I don't think u can force-thread alum bulkhead.


Always like JRXS-R design, but imperial screw just don't work at my place. :(

yes, rcscrewz makes a metric conversion. I was going to carry some but i didn't think anyone really cared ;). I'll have to get some listed on the site for you. In the mean time you can special order them through me as no where else really stocks them for the type-r.

Heavy edit...

I read through rcscrewz website still cant finger out what metric conversion screw set is.

So, it's full metric screws with proper size to replace all imperial screws?
How about re-tapping the alum parts? Using tapping tool to DIY?

Has anyone received any goods recently from Paul at Flying Fox? I placed an order for a Layshaft on the 19th of May, after several weeks and a few unanswered emails I sent him a PM mid June about the whereabouts of my Layshaft, he explained he had been a little behind with Flying Fox and would send my Layshaft the next day. Its now nearly another month on and have still not received anything. I have sent several more PMs but I have not received any reply.

Sorry to post this here but seeing as I can't get an response on email or PM i'd just thought i'd see if anyone else is experiencing problems or may know what the hold up may be?

Steve Lissamore

Unfortunately it's a re-tap. I'm curious how this will work though. I wonder how it will stretch the parts out.

Re-tap as in drill out to the correct tap drill size then thread it with the new tap? I hope so, but that is making some of the walls rather thin though & not a very good idea with some of the parts.

he does disappear on tours as he is a tour guide but he should have got back to you. unless he did post and there was a postage problem!! but he should reply to you some time tomorrow as he reads this thread a lot.

Yes, and i'm not sure i'm going to do that. I was tempted to do it so i could get rid of two more wrenches in my kit but some of the walls are already thin enough!

Interesting note, for as "old" as everyone makes out this car to be, I found a doc that I made when I got the car, 3/2007 so 3 years, sure that's old in x-ray years, but really not bad :) I owned 4 of them in that time too, lol.

You wont be disapointed,best sedan i have driven hands down:)

hey guy,
I'm a new user of JRXS type-R~
i will play at the litte bit technical track with high traction asphalt surface,
any suggestion of the shock springs? starting with ??lb?
and any tips of this car? like setting, electronic position..

thanks!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

very good idea!
waiting for you!!:D

The usual springs rates work fine. I run 17.5lbs front and 15.0lbs rear springs everywhere on rubber tires and its always good. These are the losi springs by the way which are shorter than most.

Go to this page: http://www.rctech.net/forum/electric...ype-r-297.html

posts 11866 and 11867

About the only things extra you need are the FF Layshaft, Mcmaster thrust bearing and a bag of shims. :).

I was trying to be funny :). By shims i mean #4 washers, you can get them from anywhere you can buy losi parts from .

New Owner
 

Picked up a roller in very good condition for a very good price. I plan to race it in RCGT. For peace of mind I want to rebuild the diffs, the front feels funny, it is very tight but then gets a little easier and then tight again as I counter rotate it, the back feels a little gritty. So, the question is what is a good starting point for adjusting these once they are rebuilt? I will be running on high traction pavement but with HPI Rubber wheels, the instruction are not too clear.

Check the thrust bearing. might be shot.

I have it on the bench now and will go over the whole thing. I will probably just lock it up tight and have a semi Spool for the front. Once I rebuild them though what is a good start point for tightness? Again the instruction book is vague.

I have to say this car is really good. I run asphalt on Sunday and carpet on Tuesday and all I change on the chassis is the ride height.:eek:
The car is super fast and just shocks me every time. The car is so responsive with just the smallest change. The best way I have found to cut down lap time for me is to play around with the roll center height. I am running low rear with a .050 and .075 in height which is magic on both surfaces!:nod:
I am going to try a different chassis for this fall but I may be disappointed.

Dragonfire mentioned that he puts the thrust bearing closest to the diff gear and it works like a charm.

On the front side of the diff spring?

Well took it apart. The front diff was set up locked. No diff balls on the pulley and the thrust balls were missing a few. I took out the thrust balls, added a washer to make up the space and locked it down. Have not driven before with a fully locked front diff so time will tell. Took the rear apart, obvious it was slipping, grooved washers. Ordered rebuild, flipped the washers for a temp fix and adjusted it. Is very smooth and I am not able to make it slip by hand so seems ok. Used associated black diff grease to add more stictions.

Have any of you guys tried solaris tires on the rug?if so how do they compare to jaco blues

Yes i've been running it that way and a diff lasts about 2 weeks before a rebuild on an asphalt track.

TryHard, I was marshalling the final with a couple of the Losi drivers in this weekend and was watching with interest. Were you guys trying anything new at all? Any setups available?

I also noticed that it was probably the scrappiest 3 finals I've seen for a while! Both cars came off in one final IIRC!

Hey Chris,

Yeah, me and Rich were in the D, so I guess that's the final you were talking about? It was not one of my most succesful weekends tbh, narrowly missed out on the C (I was the red white blue on pole), and then preceded to screw myself over in the finals! Managed some top twenty times, but thanks to round by round, was down in the 30's... :(
First leg, managed to spin out on the first corner and got collected by the rest of the field. Initially had no idea why that had had happened, but on returning to the pit table, found three of the screws for the battery tray on the table... Schoolboy error! That little mistake cost a servo and a reciver, although nothing else on the car had a scratch which I was amazed with, as I completely expected to take it back to the pits as a pile of bits!!
Secong leg was better, chasing down the leader after a tentative start, when a backmarker decided he wanted to race us... Cue a meeting with the wall and a popped off camber link :(
Third leg, no idea, massively seemed to lose pace compared to previous runs, then chose the wrong side to go round a car spun in front... So broken wishbone.

Setup wise, pretty close to what Urbain runs now, I'll post a copy of it later on tonight.

Ed

Cheers Ed. Do you think you will be running the Type R next season or throughout the winter?

I'm pretty much sorted with the Xray now (apart from blowing electrics hence my E final disaster!) but I prefer the Losi. I think I'll go back to it for the winter events and next season.

The main problem I always had was with mega understeer and when dialing that out creating the back end to go loose, especially in the slower corners.

There are a few ways to prevent that, all depending on how much work you want to put into it :) I used to use the small button heads, I believe from the steering rack to thread into the end of the ball stud with a washer behind it. Other would use a long flathead screw with a oring, then use a washer and locknut on the other side of the shocktower (thread through the ballstud end). If you can find pictures of haynes current setup it's pretty clean.

Well, the setup we've got on the car now seems to work pretty well. Feels much better on the rear end (a bit more reactive), but not loose, than where it was before.
I'll explain some of the reasoning behind the setup when I put it up :)

Ed

Right, here we go :) This was the setup from when the car felt best on new boots, and the main differences it seems over most the other setups around are;

Rear arms forward, increases forward traction due to driveshaft angle, but does give a little more ubnderster as the weight moves back in the car... so to counter this...
1mm under the outer rear camber ball joint.. two things, raise rear roll centre a little, and increases the camber gain.. both of which really helped to free up the rear end mid to exit on power. Was a noticeable improvement on the longer inner sweeper turn, had struggled all the way through testing to get the car to rotate enough there, but it had always suffered on power. This change helped to get the rotation into the car, IMO.

Otherwise, pretty standard fare. I was pretty happy with the shock setup, initially did go with red pistons and 35wt, and that was good over the ripples and bumps in the big sweeper, but still wasn't quite moving enough round the rest of the track, so dropped to the orange/50wt combo. Sealed top and nothing above the bladder were deffiently the call to best deal with the bumps/ripples in the sweeeper though :)

My setup was a little different to the rest of the guys, they were all running 40wt, 0.5mm extra on the wheel hexes, and 41t pulleys... I personally don't like the feel of the 41t.

One other thing we all played with as well, was trying out 12.5lb springs all round, and a 0.05 f and 0.04 r bar... this gave a bit more steering on older boots, but was very nervous on new... I prefered the attached setup for new boots :)

HiH
Ed

Nice one Ed, very useful.

Do you guys think you're coming to a solid setup yet with the car or is there still work to do?

I think that ones pretty solid. Not going to be able to find out until we get to halifax in a few weeks, but by the end of aldershot I wasn't doing too much anymore. Think it'll just be the standard thing of oils, rol bars and spring tbh.

I should mention that I did try out the arm sweep, but found the parrallel (and slightly narrower) front arms gave better initial for me personally. It's something to bear in mind, so might try it again at halifax.

HiH
Ed

Halifax is my local (I say local it's still 40m away) club. It's the only track I managed to get my Losi working on perfectly.

IIRC I was using the 41t spool pulley and long wheelbase. Apart from that it was pretty much kit.

How are you finding the FF Spool? I've read on here about guys stripping the outdrives, never had that happen myself!

Hey Chris,

The FF spool is going great... since I pinned the outdives!
Now I should point out, it's not an issue with spool itself at all, the main issue is the outdrives themselves. They simply don't have enough meat on them to transfer the power of 10.5's and above... tap something, and they strip.

Paul's actually just let me know that he's close with teh V2 version of the spool, which uses new more meaty outdrives :) looking forward to trying that out ;)

Ed