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Originally Posted by Colby P
(Post 16223175)
Hey guys, can you post some pics of where you have your weights set up to get the car to the limit weight of 1,320 please? 1up has his series at 1,350 so any tips and pics would be awesome. Thank you.
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Thank you guys i appreciate the pics
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Steel chassis
The weirc steel chassis is real nice , machining looks to be excellent imo.
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What does the KPA arms do?
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Originally Posted by nitrodude
(Post 16226331)
What does the KPA arms do?
It changes the king pin angle. The king pin angle is the angle formed where the ground line (horizontal) and the line that passes through the ball joins on the steering knuckles meet. The Inclined KPA arms move the upper ball joints of the steering knuckles inward, toward the chassis. Because of this, installing the IKPA arms will immediately introduce positive camber (top of wheels pointing outward from chassis), and some toe out. With the upper ball links moved inward, the geometry of the suspension is changed--the upper suspension links will be shorter. The shortened links will introduce more camber gain during suspension compression (compared to the camber gain introduced with standard/typical upper link lengths.). |
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New kits come with the optional black tie rods as standard
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Originally Posted by nitrodude
(Post 16226331)
What does the KPA arms do?
Its may not be something for all tracks though but its an easy change to try. Track grip plays a big part as well as a stable rear end. |
Originally Posted by archivist
(Post 16226357)
Me too! Me too!!
https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rct...d54b444eb.jpeg |
Suspension tuning is so blended. Yes you get more camber gain in compression because the top arm is shorter but the KPI changes the camber curve (with steering input) and also the scrub radius. So if you need a tuning item, typically more steering while the car is turning and or on power, increasing the KPI might do that while keeping most of your dynamics similar everywhere else. Mind you this is assuming you correct the static camber after changing KPI.
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Is everyone running the body mount brackets that attach to the wing mounts or can I just drill holes in the rear bumper and forego them like a normal human being? I have a few bodies I plan on rotating/testing (practice, race, speciale vs regular etc) and don't want to have to buy a ton of body mount kits or take them off and on all the time. Also watched my buddy comically try to put the clips on and off from under and it was not selling it lol. You guys getting more planted rear ends with that thing?
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So far, I am. I know it's risky business, but I don't usually put body pins on mine, especially in practice. When I do, it was awkward at first, but that's how it goes for anything new. I can install/remove pins pretty gracefully now.
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Originally Posted by StickyFingaz
(Post 16226543)
Is everyone running the body mount brackets that attach to the wing mounts or can I just drill holes in the rear bumper and forego them like a normal human being? I have a few bodies I plan on rotating/testing (practice, race, speciale vs regular etc) and don't want to have to buy a ton of body mount kits or take them off and on all the time. Also watched my buddy comically try to put the clips on and off from under and it was not selling it lol. You guys getting more planted rear ends with that thing?
So far I didn't bother yet about the mounting brackets |
Originally Posted by Fastfreddy74
(Post 16226568)
The only pros about the mounting brackets is you can tune body height as needed, while with holes you are stuck at where you drill em, I think they would be a performance advantage only if you are running mod on a large track.
So far I didn't bother yet about the mounting brackets Martin Paradis |
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