Been reading the posts with great interest. Love how you guys have already got into trying chassis tweaks.

I have been testing the car with the base setup and found on Rush36 tyres I was over heating the rears quite a bit and ruining the tyres after 3 runs. Tried a couple of new sets just to check it wasn’t a bad batch.

made some small changes on motor mount screw went down to 2 in the middle. Raised the roll centres to 1 mm at the front with 0.5m anti dive. And 1.5mm rear. And raise the rear top arm to 2mm on the inside as I see the guys in the EU have theres on the higher side.

car felt a lot better and protected the tyres more so they was more consistent over a run and 5-6 races very small lap time drop off.

needed to stand my shocks up a bit as I normally have them lying down. Ended up with Fronts 1.5mm and rears 2 mm on the car which dialled out the slight understeer I was having.

beat my best mtc2r time by 1.5s on my third outing with the car and I had a 2s mistake in there so overall very happy with the car.

agree the changes are very noticeable if it works. I need to get some option springs and top decks to play some more as there is still more time in the car but so far so good for me with the standard chassis.

is this more for stock gearing or is there issues with mod gearing too?

Since it allows for a lower minimum tweet count, I would think it is more for mod. If you look at the gear chart, it already allows for most stock gearing.

Martin Paradis

In the middle Ronald posted an updated chart.

MTC3 - Ronald Volker Manual Addon/Tips

I saw the post on RedRc about a different motor mount plate that you can trade in for the kit version to allow more gear choices. I dont understand what the -6 means but is to allow a larger spur or a much smaller gear? Planning to run around 88/53 and not sure if stock mount will work or if the optional is needed.

Must be for the USA since they like to run slow classes like 25.5 TC

The biggest I could fit with 88 was a 51 .... and I barely had any gear lash for a smooth fit.
Youre probably better looking at the range between 84-86 spur for that gearing.

The motor mount thing is also related to variations in motor endbell machining. Some motors fit better and you can run smaller pinions. Some don’t let you run small enough pinions depending on your spur gear selection. I had that issue and reconciled by adjusting spur size within the range Volker mentions in the gear chart.

Might have to try that! I keep greasing the rear 36s as well especially in warmer track conditions. Tried just going to 40s but overall slower lap times.

Less motor mount screws helped in this regard. Going to the 4.75 front and 4.5 rear springs was a game changer. Much better lateral grip and less snappy under high load.

I still want to play around with shock springs. Having only the inner most screws on on the top deck and reducing the motor mount screws definitely helped for me but the roll centre adjustment got the rear temps a bit lower and last a good few runs with less drop off

Team, two questions.

Will MTC2 springs work with the MTC3 shocks?

What’s the difference between the A2243 MTC2 Differential Set and the A2249 Differential Set: MTC3/2R. I see the outdrives are different, but anything else? Is it otherwise compatible with the MTC3?

reference
https://www.mugenracing.com/a2249-di...uery=Mtc3+diff

https://www.mugenracing.com/a2243-di...ch_query=A2243

The outdrives are the only difference on the diff. I've used the MTC2 diff but swapped the outdrives for my MTC2R because that's all that was in stock.

Nope, MTC3 springs are much shorter, just 15mm

Question guys, when looking at the base setup, the droop value is a measurement at the axle. is it at the center of the axle or under the axle?
thanks,

Martin Paradis