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Old 06-05-2026 | 03:00 PM
  #706  
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Default 421 vs 421X

For those who have both cars, can you tell me if the shock towers (MA31/13451584 and MA32/13451585) fit the non-X bulkheads?
Thanks!
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Old 06-05-2026 | 03:38 PM
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Originally Posted by wallstreet
New to Tamiya cars Can someone tell me what size and length are needed for the screws withe the balls on them are needed for the car i ordered my 421x kit and id like to order those too. I assume they are to help the body in a crash because light weight bodies are the norm these days
you mean the body limiter screws as what 1up called those?
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Old 06-05-2026 | 03:42 PM
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Originally Posted by Techno Duck
Build the 421 first. Very straight forward build and a good manual.

Stock up on the hubs also, I've broken 2 of these from getting rear ended on corners. $6 a pair, so no reason to not carry a few spares.
most places run out of those hubs, I can only got one pair from TQ…

I have built the TRF421. It’s definitely a different several levels from the TT02, and even the Yokomo RS2.0. The only think that caught me off guard is the pin protectors going into the out drives that needed to be sanded down to fit or else it will be too tight. Manual does mentioned that. It’s definitely a joy to build.

Got car aligned and adjusted. Just waiting or the body to dry. Will race it this Sunday.

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Old 06-05-2026 | 04:20 PM
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Originally Posted by ousi00
most places run out of those hubs, I can only got one pair from TQ…

I have built the TRF421. It’s definitely a different several levels from the TT02, and even the Yokomo RS2.0. The only think that caught me off guard is the pin protectors going into the out drives that needed to be sanded down to fit or else it will be too tight. Manual does mentioned that. It’s definitely a joy to build.

Got car aligned and adjusted. Just waiting or the body to dry. Will race it this Sunday.
The outdrive blades were a strange thing on the 421. The spares available separately are the same exact mold and do not need that done.

Are you planning to run TCS at Revelation on sunday? Set your ride height high!
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Old 06-05-2026 | 04:29 PM
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Originally Posted by wallstreet
New to Tamiya cars Can someone tell me what size and length are needed for the screws withe the balls on them are needed for the car i ordered my 421x kit and id like to order those too. I assume they are to help the body in a crash because light weight bodies are the norm these days
For the body limiters, i would get the long M3 for bodies like the Wolverine and Twister.
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Old 06-05-2026 | 04:32 PM
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Originally Posted by NutDriver
For those who have both cars, can you tell me if the shock towers (MA31/13451584 and MA32/13451585) fit the non-X bulkheads?
Thanks!
The only difference in the bulkheads is the centering pin at the bottom.
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Old 06-05-2026 | 08:43 PM
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Originally Posted by ousi00
you mean the body limiter screws as what 1up called those?

yes.
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Old 06-06-2026 | 11:56 PM
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Originally Posted by Techno Duck
The outdrive blades were a strange thing on the 421. The spares available separately are the same exact mold and do not need that done.

Are you planning to run TCS at Revelation on sunday? Set your ride height high!
Not really. It's a local club race for 21.5T TC. Next season I plan to join TCS.
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Old Yesterday | 10:17 PM
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My first outing with the TRF421 ended with a broken ball nut that holds the lower suspension arm. It was a hard-ish side swipe, the arm didn't break (TRF421X arms) instead the ball head broke. Local store don't carry that (as most other brands are 6mm or 6.5mm).
Anyway, I'll be swapping out the lower arms with the Schumacher-hardware CF arms with new set of ball nuts.

When it works, it's a vey very stable car and easy to drive.

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Old Today | 04:21 AM
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Originally Posted by ousi00
My first outing with the TRF421 ended with a broken ball nut that holds the lower suspension arm. It was a hard-ish side swipe, the arm didn't break (TRF421X arms) instead the ball head broke. Local store don't carry that (as most other brands are 6mm or 6.5mm).
Anyway, I'll be swapping out the lower arms with the Schumacher-hardware CF arms with new set of ball nuts.

When it works, it's a vey very stable car and easy to drive.

The ball nuts break because the screws are to short especially if you run a shim underneath to adjust the roll centers. The stock screws in stock configuration are a bit short with the aluminum chassis.
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Old Today | 06:19 AM
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Originally Posted by KINGZJ
The ball nuts break because the screws are to short especially if you run a shim underneath to adjust the roll centers. The stock screws in stock configuration are a bit short with the aluminum chassis.
That's good to know. I'll be replacing my screws this week.
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Old Today | 09:58 AM
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Originally Posted by NutDriver
That's good to know. I'll be replacing my screws this week.
the screws have to go into the ball part slightly. Below the ball is the weakest point and where they break. Do not overtighen just medium locktite and you won't pull threads and weaken anything.
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