Go Back  R/C Tech Forums > General Forums > Electric On-Road
Tamiya TB Evolution V >

Tamiya TB Evolution V

Community
Wiki Posts
Search
Like Tree143Likes

Tamiya TB Evolution V

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old 09-09-2007, 01:17 AM
  #1321  
Tech Regular
 
Blueman Austria's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2006
Posts: 427
Default

Originally Posted by skytrooper
Hi, good to be part of the evo 5 club, i'm building my first evo ever

Only one problem, i have never assembled a hi tech car, such as this, and
do not know how one determines when to use shims?

I am at the very first assembly stages, assembling the prop shaft to the lower bulkhead with the 2 bearings and the manual shows to shim it with four 0.1mm shims, should i go with what the manual says? How do i know when i have shimmed correctly? It all feels the same with or without shims to me? the bearing seem to fit in fine with or without sims, i hope i can get my head around this.

It does not make sense 100% , hope anyone can help, Is there a way to test and feel for any "play" at some stage to determine this?

Thanks

ST

My Evo is also shimmed as the manual advise. THe only mod i have done, is to degrease the bearings with brake cleaner (over night) and then oil a bit with a thin oil (WD40, Neoval, Brunox).

This mod makes sense when you want to take part on serious race meetings.

If you dont degrease the bearings, than they are lasting much longer without clean and reoiling.

Myne spinn with fresh oiled bearings, up to 20 seconds (with wheels on, and of course without the pinion attached.)

Greetings Blueman
Blueman Austria is offline  
Old 09-09-2007, 01:21 AM
  #1322  
Tech Master
 
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Earth
Posts: 1,039
Default

For some reason mine only spins for about 7 seconds, using WD40, but after cleaning out the original oil, you can really feel the car accelerate better and (psychologically) even feels like run time improves because the car "glides" so much better.
rcnewb2004 is offline  
Old 09-09-2007, 05:37 AM
  #1323  
Tech Initiate
 
Join Date: Aug 2007
Posts: 35
Default

Thanks all i have finished the rear diff completely and it is almost ready to be mounted to the deck, just one question,
to which side do i need to mount the spur gear mount to the spur gear, the "rough" side, where 96T is printed on the gear or the smooth side? And also why does some of the shims have these little notches on them, do they all need to be ligned up when adding them behind the bearing on the rear diff?

Thanks
skytrooper is offline  
Old 09-09-2007, 07:44 AM
  #1324  
Tech Master
 
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Earth
Posts: 1,039
Default

I do not think it will matter how the spur gear is mounted (at least i do not recall orientation).

I don't know why there are notches in some of the shims, but I think they are to help you identify them easier.

The little notches do not need to be aligned because the rotation of the shaft and vibrations of the car will dis-align them anyway, and I don't see any purpose in aligning them...


Correct me if i am wrong!
rcnewb2004 is offline  
Old 09-09-2007, 10:06 AM
  #1325  
Tech Initiate
 
Join Date: Aug 2007
Posts: 35
Default

thanks!, Sounds good, so my diff is ready to be mounted, does everyone go with the 96T, i would like to stay with the kit spur options, which gear would put less strain on the drivetrain and motor, i'm not racing yet, so this question, from a "longest durability of drivetrain" point of view. Thanks.
skytrooper is offline  
Old 09-09-2007, 11:14 PM
  #1326  
Tech Regular
 
Blueman Austria's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2006
Posts: 427
Default

Originally Posted by skytrooper
thanks!, Sounds good, so my diff is ready to be mounted, does everyone go with the 96T, i would like to stay with the kit spur options, which gear would put less strain on the drivetrain and motor, i'm not racing yet, so this question, from a "longest durability of drivetrain" point of view. Thanks.
I never runned the original spur and pinion, i am using 48dpi spurs.

At the moment i have a 71 tooth spur atachted, because for the racecup i ride the Evo, this spur is reglemented with the Evo5.

in 40 dpi the largest spur you can attach is a 74 or maybe a 75. (I havent tried it yet). So it should be possible to achive ratios up to 9.0-1 i think.

Greetings from Austria, Blueman
Blueman Austria is offline  
Old 09-10-2007, 02:33 AM
  #1327  
Tech Regular
iTrader: (17)
 
Pie_robot's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Sydney Australia
Posts: 461
Trader Rating: 17 (100%+)
Default

skytrooper, wat motor r u using?

bigger spur/smaller pinnon= faster/less acceleration(more strain)

smaller spur/bigger pinnon= vice versa
Pie_robot is offline  
Old 09-10-2007, 11:08 AM
  #1328  
Tech Regular
 
Blueman Austria's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2006
Posts: 427
Default

Originally Posted by Pie_robot
skytrooper, wat motor r u using?

bigger spur/smaller pinnon= faster/less acceleration(more strain)

smaller spur/bigger pinnon= vice versa
If you mean me, : 23T and 17T Motors. Depends on the rules of the race meeting.

The spur is a 71T and the pinion a 26T. With these ones you get a final 1:6,6.

Greetings Blueman
Blueman Austria is offline  
Old 09-10-2007, 11:48 PM
  #1329  
Tech Regular
iTrader: (17)
 
Pie_robot's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Sydney Australia
Posts: 461
Trader Rating: 17 (100%+)
Default

nah i was talking to skytrooper
not u Blueman Austria
Pie_robot is offline  
Old 09-15-2007, 10:09 AM
  #1330  
Tech Initiate
 
Join Date: Aug 2007
Posts: 35
Default

I am finished with both diffs, the blue sure does make it look good

Now i have managed to take of the blue on the turnbuckle shafts with my plier's, and the adjusters also have some plier markings on it, cannot believe i did it, it happened on all of my turnbuckles, anyone else managed to do this?

I'm thinking of buying new sets, how do you turn these adjuster on without causing any damage? Wish i had rubber pliers.

Pie Robot, i'm not yet sue of my choice of motor, i was thinking of going brushles, im my opinion they are still somewhat bulky, especially the speedcontrollers, or have that changed in the meantime?

Anyway thanks for the help so far.
skytrooper is offline  
Old 09-15-2007, 10:17 AM
  #1331  
Tech Master
 
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Earth
Posts: 1,039
Default

I put the pliers on the metal part... and use some tissue to stop pliers from scratching it... then turn the plastic with my fingers. I would suggest not worrying about the visible details and focus on having a running car first. Replace the "ugly" parts when the car gets knocked around and functionality is affected.
rcnewb2004 is offline  
Old 09-18-2007, 08:27 AM
  #1332  
Tech Apprentice
 
Join Date: Apr 2003
Posts: 63
Default

When the car was anounced I saw a pic of optional hardened coated aluminium gears. Did these ever come out?
Black Adder is offline  
Old 09-18-2007, 08:40 AM
  #1333  
Tech Master
 
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Earth
Posts: 1,039
Default

Nope... at least i never heard of them... otherwise.. would've bought them already... despite them having their disadvantages.
rcnewb2004 is offline  
Old 09-20-2007, 07:14 AM
  #1334  
Tech Addict
 
Barry White's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2002
Location: HEAVEN
Posts: 720
Default

Originally Posted by rcnewb2004
Nope... at least i never heard of them... otherwise.. would've bought them already... despite them having their disadvantages.
See bottom left:
Barry White is offline  
Old 09-20-2007, 07:28 AM
  #1335  
Tech Apprentice
 
Join Date: Apr 2003
Posts: 63
Default

Originally Posted by C van der Hagen

Weet jij daar iets van?
Black Adder is offline  


Contact Us - Archive - Advertising - Cookie Policy - Privacy Statement - Terms of Service -

Copyright © 2024 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands. All rights reserved. Use of this site indicates your consent to the Terms of Use.