Tamiya TB Evolution V
#1321
Hi, good to be part of the evo 5 club, i'm building my first evo ever
Only one problem, i have never assembled a hi tech car, such as this, and
do not know how one determines when to use shims?
I am at the very first assembly stages, assembling the prop shaft to the lower bulkhead with the 2 bearings and the manual shows to shim it with four 0.1mm shims, should i go with what the manual says? How do i know when i have shimmed correctly? It all feels the same with or without shims to me? the bearing seem to fit in fine with or without sims, i hope i can get my head around this.
It does not make sense 100% , hope anyone can help, Is there a way to test and feel for any "play" at some stage to determine this?
Thanks
ST
Only one problem, i have never assembled a hi tech car, such as this, and
do not know how one determines when to use shims?
I am at the very first assembly stages, assembling the prop shaft to the lower bulkhead with the 2 bearings and the manual shows to shim it with four 0.1mm shims, should i go with what the manual says? How do i know when i have shimmed correctly? It all feels the same with or without shims to me? the bearing seem to fit in fine with or without sims, i hope i can get my head around this.
It does not make sense 100% , hope anyone can help, Is there a way to test and feel for any "play" at some stage to determine this?
Thanks
ST
My Evo is also shimmed as the manual advise. THe only mod i have done, is to degrease the bearings with brake cleaner (over night) and then oil a bit with a thin oil (WD40, Neoval, Brunox).
This mod makes sense when you want to take part on serious race meetings.
If you dont degrease the bearings, than they are lasting much longer without clean and reoiling.
Myne spinn with fresh oiled bearings, up to 20 seconds (with wheels on, and of course without the pinion attached.)
Greetings Blueman
#1322
Tech Master
For some reason mine only spins for about 7 seconds, using WD40, but after cleaning out the original oil, you can really feel the car accelerate better and (psychologically) even feels like run time improves because the car "glides" so much better.
#1323
Tech Initiate
Thanks all i have finished the rear diff completely and it is almost ready to be mounted to the deck, just one question,
to which side do i need to mount the spur gear mount to the spur gear, the "rough" side, where 96T is printed on the gear or the smooth side? And also why does some of the shims have these little notches on them, do they all need to be ligned up when adding them behind the bearing on the rear diff?
Thanks
to which side do i need to mount the spur gear mount to the spur gear, the "rough" side, where 96T is printed on the gear or the smooth side? And also why does some of the shims have these little notches on them, do they all need to be ligned up when adding them behind the bearing on the rear diff?
Thanks
#1324
Tech Master
I do not think it will matter how the spur gear is mounted (at least i do not recall orientation).
I don't know why there are notches in some of the shims, but I think they are to help you identify them easier.
The little notches do not need to be aligned because the rotation of the shaft and vibrations of the car will dis-align them anyway, and I don't see any purpose in aligning them...
Correct me if i am wrong!
I don't know why there are notches in some of the shims, but I think they are to help you identify them easier.
The little notches do not need to be aligned because the rotation of the shaft and vibrations of the car will dis-align them anyway, and I don't see any purpose in aligning them...
Correct me if i am wrong!
#1325
Tech Initiate
thanks!, Sounds good, so my diff is ready to be mounted, does everyone go with the 96T, i would like to stay with the kit spur options, which gear would put less strain on the drivetrain and motor, i'm not racing yet, so this question, from a "longest durability of drivetrain" point of view. Thanks.
#1326
thanks!, Sounds good, so my diff is ready to be mounted, does everyone go with the 96T, i would like to stay with the kit spur options, which gear would put less strain on the drivetrain and motor, i'm not racing yet, so this question, from a "longest durability of drivetrain" point of view. Thanks.
At the moment i have a 71 tooth spur atachted, because for the racecup i ride the Evo, this spur is reglemented with the Evo5.
in 40 dpi the largest spur you can attach is a 74 or maybe a 75. (I havent tried it yet). So it should be possible to achive ratios up to 9.0-1 i think.
Greetings from Austria, Blueman
#1328
The spur is a 71T and the pinion a 26T. With these ones you get a final 1:6,6.
Greetings Blueman
#1330
Tech Initiate
I am finished with both diffs, the blue sure does make it look good
Now i have managed to take of the blue on the turnbuckle shafts with my plier's, and the adjusters also have some plier markings on it, cannot believe i did it, it happened on all of my turnbuckles, anyone else managed to do this?
I'm thinking of buying new sets, how do you turn these adjuster on without causing any damage? Wish i had rubber pliers.
Pie Robot, i'm not yet sue of my choice of motor, i was thinking of going brushles, im my opinion they are still somewhat bulky, especially the speedcontrollers, or have that changed in the meantime?
Anyway thanks for the help so far.
Now i have managed to take of the blue on the turnbuckle shafts with my plier's, and the adjusters also have some plier markings on it, cannot believe i did it, it happened on all of my turnbuckles, anyone else managed to do this?
I'm thinking of buying new sets, how do you turn these adjuster on without causing any damage? Wish i had rubber pliers.
Pie Robot, i'm not yet sue of my choice of motor, i was thinking of going brushles, im my opinion they are still somewhat bulky, especially the speedcontrollers, or have that changed in the meantime?
Anyway thanks for the help so far.
#1331
Tech Master
I put the pliers on the metal part... and use some tissue to stop pliers from scratching it... then turn the plastic with my fingers. I would suggest not worrying about the visible details and focus on having a running car first. Replace the "ugly" parts when the car gets knocked around and functionality is affected.
#1332
Tech Apprentice
When the car was anounced I saw a pic of optional hardened coated aluminium gears. Did these ever come out?
#1333
Tech Master
Nope... at least i never heard of them... otherwise.. would've bought them already... despite them having their disadvantages.
#1334
#1335
Tech Apprentice